Dutch24V

lol, have you still got that polished 24v rocker cover then by any chance?? :) Sounds like a nice idea mate, but I can't be arsed to remove the manifold again tbh :) Going for Audi Diamond Black btw. Dutch

Not sure if a mkiv induction kit will fit. My filter is a dry PiperCross one. Not specific to a mkiv, but I got the biggest that would fit without rubbing :) I fitted a new Corrado PAS pump to the 24v with a 4Motion pully & 4Motion (without a/c sized) belt, all from VAG. Dutch

Quick update. Been a while but she will be sprayed next week :)

Don't !!I've spent enough as is :) just been eyeing up some nice AP 330mm's though. Not badly priced from the US at the mo, what with the weak dollar. must not spend, must not spend, must not spend... Dutch

What turbo? :) I wish!! :D :D Dutch

Yeah I did originally trial fit it, but as I was having the ecu remapped and the post cat o2's deleted anyway I thought I'd delete the aux. air pump/valve too. No harm in keeping it, but I couldn't be bothered making up brackets to mount the pump tbh and it looked 'messy' :D Dutch

Hi Kip, You mean as installed OE, with the pump and all? Then no as when the pump runs normally the 2 pre-cat o2 sensors detect the o2 change in the exhaust gases and everything's happy. The ecu uses this extra o2 flow to perform some o2 sensor calibration/check tasks too apparently. It's only an issue if you have removed the pump & valve without a re-flash, as the ecu still expects the o2 sensors to pick up a change when it thinks the pump is running and they don't, so it gets confused as it's not sure what has failed. Dutch

Hi Chris, There's a big discussion on vortex about deleting the sec. air pump on the 24v. Quite interesting, but not 100% conclusive :) When I spoke to the owner of The VR6 Specialist over here he also advised removing it from the ecu too due to fueling issues besides the error codes. It's not used for just pre-heating the CATS apparently, hence the fuelling concerns. Dutch

Hi ziderapple, Thanks, glad it was of help. I've just finished reading your thread(s) and it looks like you know a fair bit more than me when it comes to engines, so you shouldn't have any problems with the 24v :thumb right: I've just replied in the main 24v thread about a coule of things btw, one of which you've figured out already I see. You move a LOT quicker than me :D Dutch

Hi all, Sorry I haven't replied on here for a while, but life's been very busy of late :) My C is still in for a re-spray and she's also not 100% finished mechanically or wiring wise yet either, so once I get her back and get back into the swing of things myself I might be able to help out a bit more. She's been away for 3 months or so now :( With regards to the questions by ziderapple, CorradoVR6-n.o.s is spot on as usuall :) ...but pic 2 is the aux. air intake valve though and you shouldn't just block this up. It allows the secondary air pump to inject air behind the exhaust valves for various things and the o2 sensors look for a change when the ecu thinks the pumps running. If you simply block it up the ecu won't be happy and will throw o2 errors amoungst others. If you don't want to fit the sec. air pump then have the function removed from the ecu too with a reflash. Even then you will still have to fit the sec. air pump relay though otherwise the ecu will through yet another error! This is what I ended up doing along with removing and deleting the programming for the 2 after CAT o2 sensors too. If you look at my thread in the members gallery you'll see some pics of the front engine mount, which I modified a little so it still mounts to the block in 2 places rather than 1 as in yours at the moment. The front mount is mounted to the engine by 3 bolts, 2 of which normally attach to the block. As the front moulding on the 24v block is missing you're effectively pivotting the mount via the bottom bolt on the block, with the aluminium gearbox housing taking the rest of the stress via the other 2 bolts. It might just be me but that seems like a lot of stress on that aluminium housing. It's not in the pics in my thread, but I have just placed a steel spacer in the gap you mention though. Dutch Dutch

Good idea. I'll type my list and prices up this weekend (really busy at the mo.) All my prices are from the local dealer. If I ask they will make a list and print it out for me, even if I don't order anything. All VW dealers will (should) give you 10% if you ask. I think they add 10% to their prices to cover this though :) A mate of mine is a VAG mechanic and own's a Corrado too so I order most parts thourhg him as he gets up to 40% discount depending on the part :D Also, the importer sets the base price, so all dealerships *should* charge the same. Obviously some add their 10% so they can give it back to you to make you feel like you've won something and hence return ;) Dutch

OK, thanks mate. I'm going to leave them off initially, but if I get to many parking dings etc. due to them being missing I may well give you a shout :) Dutch

According to my local VAG dealer the Corrado side strips are not available anymore and there's no stock left anywhere in Holland either. There might be some still floating around UK dealerships though if you're lucky. Everything else is still available though as I've just ordered ALL the bits I could think of that could do with replacing after a respray. If you need a list of parts & numbers let me know !(it's a very long and very expensive list though) ;) Dutch

Yep, they're very dificult to remove without causing any damage apparently. I was lucky as my front windscreen was cracked anyway so hence my insurance is paying for an OE C windscreen to be fitted by a VAG specialist fitter. I'm paying him a little extra to remove and re-fit the rear quaters and the rear screen ;) Dutch

Thanks guys. The rear quarters will be removed, but this has to be done by a specialist. He's booked for Saturday :) The rear hatch will be removed too, but apparently it's a b*tch to line up properly when re-fitting? Dutch

Thanks mate. More to follow and a complete write-up when she's finished :) The manifold was Mr Coxylaads work (from whom I purchased the engine) I like it as it goes with the car. I might even get that done in Diamond Black too 8) :) Dutch

Having finished the engine she's now in for a full re-spray. She should be ready in a couple of weeks. Everything being removed will be replaced with new items, so it's getting costly. The rubbers from the doors, boot, bonnet, windows etc. come to over 500 Euros on their own :shock: I'm going to replace all the lights, the aerial, all rubbers, the number plate surround, the mirrors, the door handles etc etc. and the last 3 items will be sprayed too. She's standard black at the moment, but will be sporting Audi Diamond Black when finished. I can't wait :) Dutch Progress so far:

:) I must say that C's over here in general attract a different type of driver than the UK (and younger due to cheaper insurance). Think UK Saxo or Corsa owners and you'll get a rough idea of their type of *styling* mods :D Dutch

Yep, it was something like 570 Euro's from VW NL and 200ish quid from VW UK!! 1001 posts :D Dutch

You would be surprised at the difference in price from country to country. Last year Will brought a clutch kit over for me from VW UK for less than 50% of the cost of it over here :shock: Dutch

There's always one :) Critical, thanks for that, but I would like the actual UK prices, not just a conversion ;) Dutch

Firstly, happy new year to one and all :) Secondly, does anyone have etka with the pricing module installed? I'm trying to find the UK prices for the following part numbers and would appreciate your help :) 553 837 911 A (rear light cluster left) 82.35 535 837 439 A (rear light cluster right) 82.35 535 945 111 (2*door seals) 175.20 535 945 112 (outside rubber bit at bottom of window Left) 128.12 I've been quoted the above prices from the local stealers (Euro's obviously), but as I'm popping over to the UK soon was wondering how much they cost over there? Dutch

I've heard of an R36 mk2 conversion over here btw. The FSI issue (100 bar fuel pressure) is not really an issue as the fuel is only at that pressure inside the engine. There is high pressure pump built into the head that supplies the injectors via an internal fuel rail, the fuel supply going into the engine is at normalish pressure. The engine is taller though so the mounts have to be hacked to get the engine to sit lower, but then the sump sits fairly low so a protective shield of some sort is needed. The 10 lambda's or however many there are can be deleted with a remap, just like the post-cat ones on the 2.8/r32 conversions. Most of them are only there for emissions anyway. Dutch

9 yrs and 1 month 8) I had another Corrado VR6 for 13 months before that too so in total 10yrs and 2 months :) Dutch

Not sure if the TT has the same wiring/relay plate and fuse box as a mkiv, but you only need the relay plate, not the complete fuse box. Run the main battery +ve feed to the mkiv relay plate, and from there to the Corrado fuse box main power supply. This way everything on the Corrado runs as normal off the original fuse box. You then only have to adapt the TT engine harness loom to plug into the 3 white engine harness connectors on the C fuse box instead of the mkiv fuse box. The main reason for using the mkiv relay plate is the fuel pump relay, as obviously the 12v one won't work anymore as you don't have the 12v ecu connected to it. You also need the part of the engine loom with the 4 12-pin connectors. They are brown, black, orange and white and run though the bulkhead to the fuse box. It's mainly this wiring you will need to adapt to plug into the C fuse box. If you have this loom, the complete engine harness and the relay plate you should be fine. Dutch