Dutch24V

Excellent, thanks Jim :)

Thanks mate. PM sent :)

Popped to my local VW garage this morning and now have the info. I need: - o2 sensor 079 906 262 F (with the brown 6-pin) goes on the drivers side (LHD) - o2 sensor 022 906 262 Q (with the black 6-pin) goes on the passenger side (LHD) Hopefully that will be the end of my problems and I can start enjoying her again after almost 18 months of the road! How do I change my login name to Dutch24v ? :) Dutch

Thanks, me too, but I haven't driven her yet as I need to confirm which lambda goes where. I have the 2 pre-cat sensors, one with a brown 6-pin connector and one with a black 6-pin connector. I'm not sure what side of the dp each one goes? Bigpants, any clues? Dutch

Do you know if the ecu uses pre-set values when the lambda is cold or when the engine is cold, as like you say the lambda heating element should be up to temp. within 10-20 seconds? Anyhow, I may have found the problem. Paste from my reply on ukmkiv: "I think I have just found the problem though, but have to go for a drive to confirm. I think I had plugged one of the pre-cat o2 sensors into one of the post cat holes! I had the ecu re-flashed a few weeks ago and had the 2 post-cat o2 sensors deleted from the programming along with the secondary air pump. I then removed the 2 post-cat sensors and the air pump & valve and plugged the corresponding holes accordingly. Having just looked through the wiring diagrams though I'm fairly sure I had the B2 S2 sensor in the B2 S1 position. As far as I can tell the 2 pre-cat sensors should have 6-pin connectors and the 2 post-cat ones only 4-pins? I have swapped the removed 6-pin sensor into the B2 S1 hole and disconnected the 4-pin sensor that was there. I don't get anymore o2 sensor errors after clearing the error codes and revving the engine whilst cold. I will go for a drive shortly to confirm if the problem remains fixed when the engine is warm." Dutch

Ah, OK, didn't know that. I have the Clutch switch connected as it holds the revs a little whilst changing gear. Not sure the brake switch does anything worthwhile other than cutting the dbw or cruise control (not wired up) though tbh, and it only cuts the dbw after 3 seconds of braking. Even I can react quicker than that :) Dutch

Hmmm, maybe it is the lambda then, but the fault is for the heating element only? I'm using the air pump relay only. When the ecu was remapped I had the air pump deleted along with the 2 after-cat lambdas. I ditched the air pump relay too at first, but kept getting the following error: 17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Open Circuit P1433 - 004 - No Signal/Communication - MIL ON I have the relay connected now, but only to the 2 ecu wires. Seems to make the ecu happier as this error has gone. I can rev over 3000 too, so like you say must just be with the us cars. Dutch

Good idea, why didn't I think of that? I have the wiring diagrams so will test the heater circuit on the sensors tomorrow. I've just figured out it's one of sensors in front of the cat. so shouldn't be to hard to find :) I doubt that's causing the problems I have though unfortunately Dutch

Just posted this on vortex and signed up to the uikmkiv forums to ask there, but thought I'd ask here too as I'm a little stuck :( When cold the engine is very smooth and runs fine, but after the coolant temp. reaches 70+ and after a bit of hard acceleration it runs really rough and lumpy. Power is down significantly too and the car is almost un-drivable. After limping home ( 18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller P1649 - 008 - Implausible Signal 17528 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B2 S1: Open Circuit P1120 - 004 - No Signal/Communication - MIL ON The first one is explainable by the fact that the engine is in my Corrado and hence not connected to the mkiv ABS unit. The second one is obviously a problem, but which lambda sensor is this error for? Apart from these there are no more errors, so how can I go about solving the rough running issue further? If I reset the ecu with the engine still warm it idles and revs fine again. I have not risked driving her again when warm so not sure if the problem returns after a hard run again or not at temperature. If I wait a day and try again, the same symptoms return with the same errors as above. Not sure if it

I'm running the 02A box too. Bolts straight up and everything fits as standard. Dutch

It would seem they do and I now have vag-com on both the ecu and abs :D I think the earth wiring the diagnostics port was connected too in the 24v loom was picking up interference from somewhere, as I've just connected it up to the original diagnostic port earth and I can now connect to the 24v ecu. Dutch

There is a wire emerging from pin 9, blue/white if I remember correctly. I will try to figure out where it goes. Don't suppose you happen to know which pin on the diagnostic port the ABS diagnostic wire connects to? Dutch

Just PM'd you those wiring diagrams mate. I can't confirm which wire goes to the fuse board for the rpm signal though because the colour wire that runs into the loom from pin 9 of the orange connector doesn't emerge again :? I imagine it's been joined to another colour wire, but can't see which one unfortunately without unwrapping the loom. I might have a wiring tidy up tomorrow so will try and figure it out for you then. I managed to get the fuel pump running of the 4motion fuel pump relay today btw :) Dutch

Excellent, thanks for the response guys (...I kind of forgot I posted this question tbh :oops: ) It does stick out a bit more at the back than normal after fitting the twin cats, so it would seem if I remove an inch or so off the joining pipe in the middle it shouldn't knock anymore as the bendy bit will be pulled forward into the right place. Dutch

lol :) Thanks mate but I have the original diagnostics port from my Corrado so will use that. I cannot see any wires spliced into the clocks loom as I've checked before. I'm also using my original clocks loom, not the one you sent with the engine, so I'm curious how these signals get there too :) I will have a look tomorrow and let you know. The rpm signal should come from pin 9 of the orange 10-pin connector according to the guys on vortex. I'll have look at my wiring diagrams when I check mine to confirm. Dutch

Yeah she's almost there. Mechanically it's all done, just these little electrical gremlins to sort. So do you have fluctuations too? :) I have vag-com but no diagnostic port at the moment. I'm going to plug that in at the wekend too after checking the k-line wiring and re-routing the earth. Dutch

Well it seems I have misunderstood a few things. The gearbox speed sender is just that, a speed sender for the speedometer/spoiler etc. The rev counter get it's signal direct from the ECU, which in turn gets it's rpm signal from the G28 sender on the front right of the block. The 24v ecu rpm signal is compatible with the C clocks too so no problems there. The earth wire to this 3 pin sender must also act as a shield for the other 2 wires to reduce interference. The guys on vortex reckon this earth is my problem, so I will have a look how it's connected and what the shielding is like over the weekend. After a while or so of driving she goes into limp mode too, but this could also be due to this bad earth as it's also an earth for some other engine sensors, like the CPS. If this sensor is intermittent the ECU will go into limp mode to prevent damage. If I disconnect the battery then all is fine and she absolutely flies until going into limp mode again :( Hopefully I can solve these last niggling issues and start enjoying 24valvness soon. Dutch

Anyone know if the speed sensor in the o2a box is the same as the one in the 02m? Are you running the C clocks Ian? Dutch

Well mine is/was a '94 VR with Coil Pack, but it still doesn't work properly :( I may give Andy a call then. Will try my clocks on another VR too if I can find one and will also check the wiring from the speed sender to the ECU and from there to the clocks. Dutch

Hi Woz, It's an interesting question you

...looking at my russex manual for the 24v vr6 engine the vvt head has only one chain for the cams that runs down to the crank. The head you posted has 2 hence the second cog on the exhasut cam for the second chain that connects to the crank. Dutch

If it were vvt there would be two electric adjusting valves sitting between the 2 cogs with wiring connectors, about where the tensioner is on yours. I can't see them in the photo you posted. The thingummy you mention is for the cam position sensors (edit: sensor as there's only one with no vvt) :) Dutch

Hard to tell, but looking at it I can't see any hardware for vvt. The tensioner is there - is that what you mean by looking complicated ? Dutch

No worries. So what's it from then ? :) ...I would guess it's from an early AYU engine, which is without vvt, as the last letter of the part no. is an A. If you look at ETKA the latest BDE head code ends with a C and the R32 a D, other than that they are the same. Dutch

I'm sure Dinkus has researched the R36 and mkv R32 engines and I'm sure he said the mkv R32 is the same size as the R36, i.e. a lot higher than the mkiv R32 due to the narrower angle V on these engines. I could be wrong though, but if true I think you'll have issues installing one into a Corrado due to the height restrictions. Dutch