Dutch24V

Yep, aux. air pump. It injects air behind the exhaust valves to help heat the CATS during cold starts. You can't just remove it though as the ECU monitors the rear o2 sensors to check if it's working and will throw an error if it's not. When you get the ecu re-flashed they can delete it from the programming along with the rear o2 sensors, as they are only there for monitoring the air pump and the CATS. You can then ditch it along with the rear o2 sensors. You'll have to remove it anyway though as it'll foul your radiator/cross-member when you mount the engine in the Corrado I made a blanking plate for the valve on the back of the cylinder head with some 5mm aluminium plate and a gasket just to make sure it was sealed off properly. Dutch

Yes I believe it did Stanley. Dutch

If I was going to use mkiv clocks I'd use the v6 4motion ones :D I'm thinking the same as kip now and I'm guessing the replacement instrument cluster you had was from a 16v Corrado, which afaik too is the same as the later VR one? According to Bentley the rpm signal goes to pin 7 of the 28-pin instrument cluster connector. Can anyone confirm if this is the case on EU/UK cars? Dutch

KipVR, that Mk1 G60 looks very nice. If you're going for the same factory look with this coversion it's going to be a lot of work. One of the other reasons mine took so long. Stan, just got this back from Andy at PSI: "The original 24v clocks pick up the RPM sensor from the crank sensor to the ECU, this gets sent to the 24v clocks by CAN DATA down the orange black/orange brown wires. When we do the 24v conversion on the Mk2s and Corrados we swap the clocks to a set of 4 cylinder type then run a wire direct from the hall sensor on the side of the cylinder head direct to the clock pod. This will give you an accurate RPM reading." Not sure what he means by "swap the clocks to a set of 4 cylinder type" as I thought you were running the standard Corrado clocks? Anyhows, I'm going to check my wiring diagrams and see. Might have a go at the wiring this weekend, weather depending of course. Dutch

lol, I'll drive over, swap the engines, and then finish yours off for you if you like? ;) The pipe for the aux air valve is already blocked of mate and the vacuum for the black reservoir on the front is provided by the pipe marked X in the attached pic. This pipe has a t-piece with another pipe coming off it that attaches to the FPR. This is all as standard AFAIK. (and the variable intake valve works fine btw.) The other 2 pipes I mention may just connect together, but it just seems odd to me to have a connection between the vacuum side of the TB and the intake side if you get what I mean?? If you're feeding the vacuum reservoir and air valve with the pipes I mentioned previously, what does pipe X connect to on your set-up then? Pipe A is not a vacuum btw, only B & X are. KipVR, that's pretty good overview of what's involved. The part I would have struggled with even with the wiring diagrams for both engines would have been adapting the mkiv engine harness and relay panel to the Corrado fuse box. Luckily an auto electrician mate of Coxylaads had already done this :) You should be able to mount the 24v ecu in the same location as the 12v one in your case. I mounted mine where it is due to having a LHD car and a RHD loom, which hence wasn't long enough (hard to explain why) to mount the ecu there. You

lol, fair enough, guess that may have looked a bit more sus. :) Dutch

Is yours running yet Coxylaaad? Did you manage to sort the wiring for the rev. counter? I've a new VSS but still get the intermittent speed sensor implausible signal error and the rev counter still fluctuates a little. I'll check all the wiring when I get a chance. Dutch

Cheers mate. Glad to hear you made it back in the Alfa without any dismantling problems. I would have thought it was the driver that made them suspicious before, but obviously not :D Dutch

No idea tbh. I'll ask a mate when I see him next week. I'm going for the TT 312 set-up early next year so presume I'm going to have a similar issue, except being a LHD car I have an electronic regulator which might cope better than the UK vacuum one? I have two 5mm diameter vacuum pipes that I'm not 100% sure where to connect. They are blockled off at the moment. One pipe comes of a t-piece on the crank case breather hose that runs along the back of the engine, the other comes off a t on the pipe that connects the carbon canister to the inlet manifold that also runs along the back of the engine. I'm not sure if they should just connect together or not? I've taken some pictures but not sure if they are clear enough to show the pipes concerned, but if anyone has any ideas? I can't figure them out on ETKA unfortunately. Pipe A basically connects to the intake side of the TB and pipe B the vacuum side, hence it doesn't make sense, to me at least, that they should be connected together? Dutch

All i did was replace the wheels for those photo's too, no washing or cleaning what-so-ever. I was amazed at the difference a decent set of wheels can make on their own, as you say night and day :) lol Stanley, I will get some engine bay shots up soon mate. She's going for a full re-spray in January so she's not 100% finished yet. I'm going for Audi Diamond black, which has just a hint of metallic in so is a really deep dark Black. I have new roof runners/rubbers, door seals, aerial, wipers, door plates etc as well so hopefully she'll be looking as good as she drives soon 8) Dutch

A quick update. I've fancied a set of these rims for ages and have just picked a set up of a friend for a very nice price. 17*8 BBS rkii's with new p-zero's fitted. They look fantastic on a dark C imo. I might lower it a couple of cm's further, but really like how she looks now:

mattkh, It's the same as craigowls: download/file.php?id=45136&mode=view oxfordpaul, the fans operating temp is triggered by both the themoswitch on the radiator and the yellow temp. sender/switch. Dutch

Fair points craigowl, but it should still at least run whilst the engine coolant is above 80 degrees and the first after-run fan cycle has stopped, IMO of course :) Dutch

There are definately 2 types of controllers for Europe too, and I'm fairly sure for the UK also. I guess they are the same 2 as the Americans refer to, so one must over-run when cold and one not. I just don't understand why VW would want to remove that particular feature on the new one though :? I'm not sure if you can switch a late one for an early one either without at least hacking the loom to the 10 pin connector on the controller. Dutch

Thanks guys.Getting closer to an answer I think. I think what you've observed is correct Mr. Toad, as I know there are 2 controllers - 1 with a 4 & 8 pin connecter and 1 large fuse, and the other with a 4 & 10 pin connector and with 3 fuses. My dealer also asked which one I needed so had to give him the part number of the one I have. Mines the later one with 3 fuses and a 1 and 10 pin connector btw. I've bitten the bullet and ordered one just to see if it makes a difference :) It would seem strange that VW removed the after-run when cold from the later model as I would have thought it would be safer to run the coolant without the fan for the reasons explained in my previous but one post and Craigowl. Dutch

Precisely craigowl, but it's still not clear if this is how it is meant to function or not :( That quote was from Mr. Cheeswire btw. Kev, are you sure your pump has a 10 minute run-on after engine shutdown with a cold engine?? ...and once your fans stop after the first over-run cycle does your pump keep on circulating coolant for 10 minutes? If not then I guess all is well and the functioning most seem to have is correct. If so the mystery deepens :) Dutch

...I also remember my fans used to run for a longer period before. They would run on when engine was hot, then stop after the temp. went down enough, but then would start again 20-30 seconds later. This would repeat until the whole system was cool enough for them not to run on again. The only way this could have happened is if the aux. pump continued to circulate the coolant after the fans had stopped, as the heat being absorbed from the exhasut manifold would have warmed the circulating coolant enough to trigger the fans again. If the coolant stops circulating once the fans go off after the first over-run cycle, the coolant around the temp sender will not heat up again to run them for another cycle? Dutch

I would like to, but this quote is stopping me: "RE listening to the pump. All you need to do is turn the ignition on and off and it'll go into it's 10 minute after run program (regardless of coolant temp) and you should then hear the pump buzzing away without the fans intruding. It's quite a loud buzz, even on new ones." :? Dutch

:) Thanks for checking Craigowl. ..but, does it carry on running when you turn the ignition off with a Cold engine, ambient air temperature 11C & Cloudy/dull? :) Mine runs all the time when the ignition is on, hot or cold, but when I switch the engine off it only runs with the cooling fans whent he temp. is above +/- 80 ? Dutch

Even if the engine is cold and without the fans coming on too? Dutch

Anyone :?

Can we have a poll or something to see how many VR's after-run the aux. water pump REGARDLESS of engine temp., and how many don't? There are so many conflicting stories and I would like to find out the truth about these damn things before I go and splash 130 euro's on one that still won't after-run the aux pump when the engine is cold. From what I can figure, having read numerous posts, the Bently Bible and the Pete Russex book the fan controller should NOT run the aux water pump on shut down when the engine temp is below 85 degrees C. I would like to know if this is 100% true or not as some people have stated that when they purchased a new one it did after-run the aux water pump even if the engine was cold. This makes sense to me, but apparently the *official* literature implies that it shouldn't do this. Dutch

So just about run in. Excellent, she should hopefully last for at least another 200,000 Km's or so then :D Dutch

Thanks mate. She sure is a peach from what I can tell so far. The oil is still crystal clear after all the f**king about I've been up to so must be very clean on the inside. How many miles did it have again when you got it? Basically it's a fairly easy swap to do, just loads of little fiddly things that take time, especially if you buy a RHD engine and loom and then fit it into a LHD car :) Also depends on how factory you want it to look and how much of the ancillaries you want to replace with new items (which then depends on how much spare cash you have at the time) etc. If anyone fancies it themselves I'd recommend doing it yourself. I've learnt shed loads and am confident I can now fix pretty much anything that goes wrong with it from now on. One bit of advice though - if you don't have a garage, rent one, otherwise you'll be at the mercy of the weather, which is why I took so long.

The problem is fixed and she now runs like a dream. So good in fact I took her for an APK (M.O.T) and she passed with zero problems, and the emissions are spot on too now I've sorted the lambda sensors out! :D Just went for a little spin with her up to temp. and all I can say is f**k me, a LOT quicker from 2500 rpm than I imagined she would be. She has been remapped to 228 pk and it feels so much more responsive in the lower rev range than the old 2.9 12v it's almost night and day :) I'm off or another little spin, but will get some more pictures and update my member