Dutch24V

You think that's about it? That's more than enough mate and answers just about everything I could possibly ask! Thanks for such a comprehensive guide, I can now go an play with confidence! Didn't get a chance to do the ecu reset yet btw, hopefully will sort her over the weekend though... Cheers again, Dutch

hmmm, I did it on group 000! I'm going to do the whole procedure again tonight though with a reset first - so will make sure I select group 001 this time. ...so does basic settings actually do anything when on group 000?

Good idea! ...It might also be usefull to try and list the procedure for the other measuring block too as I have no idea what to do when in Basic Settings in those. (...if infact they do anything or does basic settings reset all measuring blocks regardless of what group you're in??) Maybe helpfull to include the driving requirements after resetting the ECU in the same place also? Dutch

:)

OK, will do so this evening and see what comes of it. Cheers...

Dynamat? Sound insulating foam? ...over 600 kg's ???

If you take your MAF of there should be both a VW and a Bosch number on it. I went to my local Bosch dealer and they ordered the correct part first time based on my license plate and this number. There are/were 3 Bosch part numbers for the Corrado VR MAF and apparently the one in my car has just been supperceeded. Mine was 461 but now it's a 462A!! My ecu ends in AG and is from '94 btw. I checked the MAF before fitting and the 462A has 6 connecting pins, but only 5 are used (as it still has the hot burn of cycle) . I think that 462 only has 4 pins as it doesn't have this cycle & AFAIK thats the only difference bewtweeen the 2 and you can only buy 462 and 462A's now. Anyway, my point is trust Bosch as they will get you the correct part if you order it direct. It was also an exchange part that *only* cost 279 euro inc. VAT!! RW1 - I didn't disconnect my ECU btw and have not done so for well over 4 months now. Based on what you're saying then I should really do this and then the basic settings again to get everything set up properly quicker!? Dutch

1867Kg ? Dutch

Now all sensors are basically new she is running properly, or at least nothing noticable performance wise and certainly nothing bad enough to warrent taking the head of yet. What's 30 Euro every 3 months on oil compared to min 2000 Euro to get her fixed?

Could be possible, depends what is lying in wait when the head is removed. I've been led to believe that if a ring goes in the VR though it's highly likely to have scored the bore, and as I said, worst case scenario... Dutch

..but as you said it could run like this for years - mine has!!

3000 Euro (2000 UK) worst case scenario - going 3.0 with JE pistons if the bore has been damaged + a full head rebuild. Without the rebore around 1500 - 2000 Euro (1000 - 1500 UK) for head rebuild and HG. Dutch

I have the same on 2 & 6, with 6 being the worse by far. Have had this for over a year now though and the situation hasn't changed/got any worse. Compression on 6 is down to around 6-7 BAR, when it should be mid to high 12's. My oil consumption is a bit more than yours too and I have to replace plug 6 every 3-4 months when it's totally buggered. As long as you keep an eye on the oil level and the plug I wouldn't worry about it too much just yet. I'm of the opinion that if the ring is bust, it's already scored my bore anyway so why stress and speand all that money now!? Also, my cat is over 11 years old and dieing so don't care if it gets a bit of oily smoke through it either. Probably going to be shot down for this view but it's saved me spending the money when I didn't/don't have it! ...but be prepared for something expensive though as it is heading your way, but not neccessarily soon!! Dutch, 94 VR

Question: When checking the engine temp. during the warmup phase what is an acceptable range for the temp. and on what measuring block should the VAG-COM be in?? Infact, can somebody breifly list for me what blocks 000-004 are for on the Corrado?? (I don't have the repair manual) I can work it out I think but would like it confirmed if pos.? Cheers...

I had the exact same problem on all counts until very recently. I replaced my TPS and MAF sensor, put the ECU into basic settings and all has been well since (touch wood). Check post 'VR6 Misfire' or something (posted within the last 2 weeks or so I beleive)

that's what I was thinking, so will leave it as I drive a fair way each week anyhow. Dutch

I understand your concern, but in the last year I have replaced everything but the MAF and TPS and none of it fixed the current problem -so am used to it beleive me! I did a full disconnect of the battery each time something new went on too and it never felt like it did now so fingers crossed. I also know that a rubuild is heading my way soon so am just glad to have it as it is now to be honest. One thing though, I was reading the article on the ecu reset procedure and it states that if you have replaced the TPS then you need to follow the complete reset procedure, not just the last basic settings bit? I didin't do this so should I do a complete reset? She is a little hesitant at times in low revs so was wondering if it would help to do the full reset??# Cheers, Dutch

CAT? Oil leaking onto hot metal? (headgasget weaps on TB side of engine a lot and that's the first place the head gasket will usually leak if it's old/dodgy) I had a simular situation with me and my girlfriend, but we've got so used to it now we don't bother blaming each other, just accept it's the smell from all the oil p*ssing down the block and burning from the leaking HG when the engine gets hot. Also, my CAT is the original and it smells like sulphar when very hot!! Dutch

It's supposed to make a wooshing noise and I believe it gets quieter when you put your hand over it due to the sound insulating qualities of your hand! I had the same and thought mine was leaking causing my rough idle, but when I fitted a new one as a test it did the same. If you cannot feel air (make your hand wet and cover it again) then it's not leaking, but they do make a noise simular to an air leak which doesn't help!! Dutch BTW, How old is your MAF? ...a slight hesitation at low revs could be due to a dodgy one as I've recently discovered (and it won't give any errors on VAG-COM either)

I blast or 2 ...and I presume you do not oil the 'engine-side' at all? I only oiled the outside-air side, but with 2 fine coats!? ...After a nice long cruise to work on the highway yeserday morning decided to come back the 'country' route, and what joy did it bring. Full power on a VR is quite a thing when you haven't had it for such a long time! (well, almost full power due to the dieing v.stems and/or rings on 2&6) Also noticed that she doesn't produce as much/hardly any smoke when given some right foot when cold anymore either and fuel consumption is up too. Over fuelling could well have been contributing to plug 6 getting so fouled-up every 6-7000km too so I've replaced it with a new one and will monitor the situation. Will leave the K&N in for now and see what happens as I don't recall any problems when fitted new. Dutch

VW here only sell the red HT leads now. Can't get the black ones anymore! Bought a set a year or so back (along with the tool!!) but can't remember the cost though!! EDIT: ...or part numbers! Dutch

Pick-up "feels" sharper along with throttle repsonse if my memory serves me correct (which it probably doesn't having lived in clog land for so long) BTW, how long do you normally take to clean the filter then Kev??? Took me about 2 hours with drying time. Dutch

My MAF actually ends in 461 so should be a bit better at dealing with the oil as it has the 1000 degree C hot burn-off cycle. ...but fair point if there's no difference between OEM and K&N. Why take the risk of buggering the MAF!? Hmmm, maybe I'm going to stick in an OEM filter to see if there's a difference. I've been running with the K&N for 5-6 years now so should be able to notice if a difference exists... Dutch

...New MAF fitted, cleaned the air filter and reset the ECU and what a transformation!! Along with the new TPS, acceleration is now so effortless and smooth compared to before and she pulls harder and smoother lower down too. Between 3-4000 rpm is sooo sweet now I don't have to change down to boot it on the highway either. Also, not one hint of even coming close to stalling, she starts and runs smoothly and at 680 rpm from start, without any hunting, hesitation or complaints. My MAF was the original from March '94 and even though the ECU reported no problems with it I highly recommend changing yours if as old as this, you won't regret it!! A very chuffed Dutch, '94 smoooooth VR

Nice one. Didn't think of looking there for some reason! Cheers...