jonny-5

Not sure if this is a re-post but it's been doing rounds of the forums for a while now, http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=224101 it is worth a look through to see some of this 'tuners' 'skills', gotta love that head work :lol:

Demon Tweaks sell exhaust decibel inserts, for this sort of application, I think they're only about 30 quid or so. Might be worth a look.

Just conducted a little experiment to see how many ebay adds containd the word 'rare' Went on to ebay > car parts and vehicles > car parts Then typed in 'rare' into the search box and click on the 'chose more' section under 'manufacturer' The results are as follows: In 3rd place we have joint effort from Peugeot and Ford with 36 adds containing the word 'rare' In 2nd place with an impressive 47 we have Land Rover And at number one, if you hadn't guessed it already, is..........VW with 82 adds containing the word 'rare'

The main gear on the odometer has a knurled section which grips the numbered disc these often slip and fail completley, you can take it apart and rough up the knurled section and try that if you really want to save some cash!

^^same as^^

One for a Passat of that era will contain the info you need (can never remember what the years for it are though). It's the Passat GT which uses a 9A. It will be very similar to a KR as used in mk2 Golf 16v's ect.

Did you say just tap into the original signal from the lambda sensor for the air fuel gauge? Would that not some how dampen the signal to the ECU? The reason I ask is that I wanted to fit one for ages and thought I would have to get another lambda sensor to use independantly for the gauge.

Yeh gunna get a new exchanger in the week and go from there, probably due an oil and filter change anyway. Any reccomendations? GSF, eurocar parts? Or do I take the plunge and get a vag one?

No it doesn't over heat at all. I think i'm going to change the heat exchanger anyway as it's only £30 and it could do with an oil change while I'm at it. It should get a good run tonight so i'll see how it goes.

Thanks again for the replies, this forum is actually the best. Well I went and got a comp tester from Halfords, was meant to be £20.00 but with the trade card I got it for £10.50! What a bargin (bulbs are still the best one tho - you get nearly 80% off!). Anyway the results are in: 1 2 3 4 138, 147, 150, 147 Half decent I reckon, am I right in thinking that the factory oil cooler is probably at fault? BTW I checked the breather again and there is a bit more mayo in there now.

Just a quick one: What's the best was to stop the engine from starting when doing the compression test? Pull the fuel pump fuse out? Take off one of the coil connections? .....

Thanks for all the replies so far. I do a fair few shortish journies but it usually gets up to temperature fine. It does get warm quite quickly compared to most VW's of that sort of age - which is a very good thing in this wether lol and then it holds that temp nicley. There's no signs of oil getting into the water, I had an idea to bridge the water pipes on the factory oil cooler and see if I could see any oil leaking out the connections on the exchanger. Could be worth doing even if to just rule it out. But surely that would only check oil in the water and not the other way round? I've got a comp tester coming in the week, it's a cheapo special from ebay. So i'll wait till I get that before I make any rash decisions. Thinking about it I might just go and buy a Halfords one today to save waiting - got a trade card for them now too.

Yesterday I noticed a little bit of blue smoke from the exhaust at idle and then later on the idle seemed rough all though it still had plenty of power and driveability. Now it does use a little oil, about half a litre every couple of k - always has done, also uses some water from time to time. The engine is a pretty much standard G60 with 145,000 on it. So the hunt for mayonaise started this morning. I took off the brether pipe from the cam cover and found a very small trace of mayo, but none anywhere else. I have a compression tester coming next week so I can check for sure then. Sounds pretty conclusive I reckon, but can anyone give any more suggestions or ways I can check without a comp tester?

What's actually wrong with the cluster? Wrong mileage or something?

The handles on both my Corrados (one with leather) just slide off, it takes a fair bit of force mind. Am I on about the right thing?

Good point, I shall check it first thing.

Shortly after starting my G60 this morning, there was a burning smell and smoke coming from the fusebox area. I decided to keep going till I got to somewhere safe, I eventually pulled over and after a few seconds the car died and wouldn't start. I soon noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming, so I checked out the fuse and it was rather melted so say the least, luckily it hadn't damaged the fuse box it's self. So I swapped it over for a new one and I was off. What would cause it to blow like that? My only idea was that because I only had a little fuel in the tank and the very very cold wether today could have caused the fuel to become slighlty thicker and the pump was having trouble sucking enough up. I have had a similar problem before, it was on a very cold night at first start and the fuse blew near enough instantly. Could that be it?

Yeh, 5800-5850 would make it the best charger in the world. 880 at idle is maybe a little high also. Make sure the MFA is in position 2 on the wiper stalk and on the second data reading once you're in the 'service' mode. Thinking about it, could you have put into the engine rpm reading by mistake? The numbers look sort of right for that. Here's the other settings: In position one: -Engine MAP code -Country code (1=Canada, 4=US ect) -Speedometer drive ratio -Upper RPM limit -Lower RPM limit -Deceleration fuel shutoff pressure (mbars) -LCD Test And in position 2: -Test checksum of programmed bytes in memory -Intake manifold vacuum (mbar) -Engine rpm's -Fuel consumption -Signal from speed sensor -Oil temperture -Outside temperature

If you could get a wiring diagram, I don't think it would be too hard to make your own

Check the cam belt timing as well as the ignition, could be the old crank pulley

You can get a filter housing with 3 tapped (M10) holes in as standard that will fit into a 4 cyl, can't remember what you get them off but I can check the part number if you want.

G60 steels all the way, just got a set through the group buy on club gti, does anyone have the part number for the flat centre caps?

My ISV's a minter, got it off ebay for the grand sum of £30 and had been bought by the seller from VW about 5k ago (bargin of the week). On another note, it's working again!!!! Sorted the valve timing so it was spot on, redid the tensioner, still nothing - although the compression was immense. Then I noticed that there was no fuel pump priming noise! A quick fuse swap soon sorted that out and it was running! It was flat as a pancake when I went for a drive and I couldn't be bothered to drive into town to get a timing light off my mate as it was getting late, so I advanced it till it pinked, then backed it off a touch. Not sure if that the cam belt skipping a tooth or two would be enough for it not to run or if it's possible to skip at all, didn't notice the fuel pump not priming at the time (didn't really think it was a fuel issue as I could smell it after a few attempts to start), not sure what would cause the fuse to blow in the first place. Need to set it up properly with the timing light and what not, but for now my work is done.

Bit of an update, the timing marks are out by a few teeth and the cam belt soesn't seem tight enough (had the cam belt done by VW last year) the plot thickens...........

Finished football training tonight in the freezing cold, went to start my car, started normally but when I went into reverse and gave it a little throttle to get moving it seemed down on power, so I dipped the clutch and sort of fizzled out and died. Tried to start it again and it nearly went but sounded almost half hearted if you know what I mean and never properly got going. Didn't manage to check much as it was very dark and very cold, although there is defineley fuel getting in and it was working fine before hand. I thought it could be the hall sender at first but i'm having doubts as I'm not sure if I remember the rev counter going a bit crazy - my memory is getting really bad for short term stuff :cuckoo: (and i'm only youngish!). After a while of attempting to start it and messing around I managed to get a very dangerous tow home. I suppose it will give me something to do this weekend, any got any pointers of where to start?