jonny-5

Yeh i'm sure it's not possible without some serious boot floor modding

I'm another from Rugby but I work in Coventry, got a dark green metallic G60 with colour coded BBS splits and a few other details, gunna be switching to G60 steels soon for the winter.

Reminds me of the time when there was a 20% off voucher for Halfords in Maxpower or something, the thing was they sold the exact magazine in the Halfords store so you could tear it out while in there and then use it to buy what you wanted without having to buy the magazine at all - those were the days

Very good, how do you find out things like this?

Re-tumbles all round then lol. I suppose if you had the lock mechanism out you could send it to me with the key you want it to fit, then I could do it for you?

The boot lock can defineatley be re-tumbled - I have done it myself. It's also possible without the correct key, once you have the mechanism out just use any AH profile key and draw it in and out and wiggle it up and down as you put pressure on the barrel - eventually it will come out, this also works on all the locks (probably not ignition tho). You can't re-tumble the ignition lock as the barrel is machined to fit a certain key, you have to change all the other locks to match the ignition. It is also possible to re-tumble the glovebox lock without breaking it although alot of people will tell you it's not possible - you just have to be careful. I've done this on every car i've had (all VW's) so let me know if you get stuck.

Yeh i'm gettting barely 70 in about a 35mpg run after about 10-15min too. It's pretty standard engine with just the old chip n pulley, seems pretty warm after though (to touch) so like you say probably the sensor, worth doing a little overhaul anyway change both the temperature sensors and the thermostat see what happens. Thanks for the input.

I'm not sure but the temp of my engine seems to be a bit on the cool side. What sort of temperature is 'normal'? Say from first morning start, gentle driving on about a 20m min journey. I still get nicely hot air through the vents after about 5 mins.

Yeh, i'd go with belt slip. Drive down a road with houses or thick hedges on both sides that are very close to the road, open the windows and see if you can hear it slipping if you boot it. Also measure the diameter of the charger pulley - see if it's standard or not.

How do you go about re-silvering them out of interest?

Not sure if this has been posted before, but it's absolutley immense. Take a look

^^ Yeh same as, I remember having great difficulty trying to do that job on my first car (an '83 1300 Golf no less) and then the relief of figuring out how to do it!

Grind flats on the socket so you can hold it with the approriate spanner and then use an allen key through the hole.

Would I be interested too. Second one for my second Corrado!

Think it's VW p/n 068 117 021B they're about £70-£80 IIRC

Yeh building up the contact surface with weld sounds well dodgy. I think it might be possible to be re-machine the surface as long as the minimum thickness is sufficient.

How about the contact surface on the scroll that the other apex strips on the charger cases sit against? I have a random charger around at home and this area on it is unevenly worn, although the rest is mint! Is it possible to some how re-machine this flat surface?

I drilled a normal socket out a bit and did it like that, worked well. That was on a G60, though a 16v would be fairly similar.

Have you had a look through the search? The old spoiler not working automatically is a bit of a classic. People have modified the control boxes to change the activation speeds, I think you file down the contacts or something

Can you get another set of pipes made up at all? I would be very interested in a set if you can

Looks sweet, let me know on the pipes!

Yeh I think you can get them to fit an A2 chassis, can't remember where I saw one though. Most ones you see are for A1's as they benefit from them alot, just put one on my mates caddy feels alot stiffer and alot less vauge at the front.

Sway bars are an american term for anti-roll bars, I think stress bars are another phrase for the strut braces you already have? Is it the lower brace you're after? The one that goes between the wishbone mounts on the front subframe.

Cheers for the link they sound good

Cheers for that, without ringing up does anyone have a rough idea for price? I seem to remember around 100 notes for one!