jonny-5
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Content Count
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Joined
Everything posted by jonny-5
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Door handle repair kit..........THEY ARE NOW AVAILABLE
jonny-5 replied to daves16v's topic in Suppliers Forum
Daves kits are the best, much better than any of the kits found on ebay. -
Looks good from what I could be bothered to look at, huuuuuuuuge loading times made me give up. I saw the alot of the body work being done, what do they do to the engine?
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Fair play mate, got myself a few inters bargins this week end also.
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yeh was thinking about the fluid,might give it a quick change and bleed before i go for round 2 of gti international.
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I have a full set (that's 5) of these wheels! Been trying to find out what they are for ages! I think they were a dealer option at the time. Mine are all in varying condition one is particularly buckled but the other four are straight as an arrow, they will come up very nicley though. I had the edges colour coded dark green metallic and they looked great. PM me as i may be pursaded to make a sale.
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I changed my front brake pads this morning. But now the brakes are getting very hot and i'm getting alot of brake fade, what could I have done/haven't done to cause this? I've done this job loads of times and never had this problem. Can anyone help?
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You can get the electric mechansims and motors and wire them in to your vehicle using this guide all you need for this is some earths and feeds. But you could do it using the proper loom that is plug and play with any corrado fusebox. I think if you do it using the first method you lose one touch opening/closing.
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Yeh I changed the intercooler and most of the pipework for some spares ones I again handily had in my shed! I though that little square sticker might haave something to do with it!
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It's mine alright! Managed to drive 20 miles with it like this sounding like a bag of nails all the way, then I replaced it with a freshly rebuiltcharger I handily had in my shed! When I took it apart the seals were in good nick and the little timing belt was still intact.
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How does this happen?
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Where do you get things like unions and a like for fuel lines?
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Warning: Newby! 1.8 16v Cutting out from cold @ Juddering
jonny-5 replied to Frosty Phantom's topic in Engine Bay
mattkh, Yeh i've heard that somewhere I think too, just another thing to rule out then I suppose. -
Warning: Newby! 1.8 16v Cutting out from cold @ Juddering
jonny-5 replied to Frosty Phantom's topic in Engine Bay
May also be worth disconnecting the fifth injector when it's running from cold, if nothing changes when you do so then here lies your problem! -
For the '95 passat cup holder the part number is a bit wierd, it's: 3A1862531, not sure if it's availble in grey though but if you ring up your local stealers and ask i'm sure they'll be very helpful lol. If they can't find here's how to: On ETKA go to: Passat > '95 > body > bracket for warning triangle/net partition/cup holder
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Go for a cup holder from a '95 passat. It fits by the centre console via two screws and is available in the exact same surface finish as a black interior-ed corrado.
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I used a bicycle pump with an adaptor to fit over a bleed nipple to push the piston out (saves getting fluid everywhere). I think a Haynes manual has a usual vague discription of how to do it.
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Changing the piston seals isn't as hard as you think. I think the new seals cost something like £8 from VW. I would go for that if it was me.
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Could somebody show me where the oil lines go to and from on the block of a G60?
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i assume you mean for a valver? the plastic cone bits are 035133554 for sure and the brass lock nuts i think are 056103379. Hope this helps
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Would the engine out your mums passat gt not be a 9a two litre?
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My mates golf was excatly the same as a driver, only four-wheel drive. They don't seem to go for that much when you consider how rare they are.
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Pretty sure it'll be carb, my mate had a '91 golf syncro and that was.
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Yeh while the car is idling undo the connector for the cold start valve (it's a blue connector on the bottom right of the inlet manifold, sticking out of the manifold) if it still idles poorly the problem is that valve, if it gets worse it will be something else. Hope this helps
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Good point flusted, are you sure that's the max reading you have? Might also be worth checking the reading at idle, should be about 520 and 700 that'll fluctuate with the idle.
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That tube is where the unused boost comes out of and gives you that whoooosh sound, it's fine venting it to the atmosphere, it shouldn't be vent out air all the time though, check that the valve shuts on full throttle and that the linkage controlling it is moving correctly. If they're really your max boost readings that means it's running at about 7 Psi! Which is about half what it should be for a standard charger! I would check for a rather large air leak first.