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Trackdays advertised as Open pit events tend not to be novice events. You might end up pulling over all the time or being intimidated by faster cars. However the marshalls are VERY good at controlling bad behaviour and alerting slower drivers with blue flags to fast cars behind them. The trackday I did was advertised as novice sessioned and ended up open pit as not many people took part. The trackday a mate did at Oulton park last month was advertised the same and also ended up open pit. Obviously you want as much track time as poss for your cash :) there is nothing like the feeling of being on a proper race in a fast car nailing the corners and flooring it round blind bends :D get it booked!

Normally they take the tyre off, blast all the paint off, fill any holes with body filler, paint up, remount tyre and balance putting stick on weights in the inside.

is that basically you paying the instructor £25 to sit in your car and him give you advise on how to take corners? That's exactly what it is :) Yeah. People I've spoken to have said even the basic level of instruction has been well worth it. Hitting the correct line around corners and the exact braking points, when to get on the throttle when to hold it flat to the floor etc etc will make a massive difference. I wish I'd taken them up on it tbh.

Oh yeah an instructor session (30 mins in your car i think?) was £25 extra at Oulton park.

My girlfriend booked it as a present 2 months in advance, but the day wasn't full so you could have just turned up on the day. Oh and if you dont have a helmet, they were £10 to hire at oulton park. My mate in the clio cup just used a cheap (£30) motorbike helmet as they never checked the helmets - they just had to see you wearing on before letting you out on track. Croft is supposed to be a good track and not far from you: http://www.trackdays.co.uk/tracks/croft.htm Teeside: http://www.teessideautodrome.co.uk/trackDays.php (crap website,. best to ring them) and I went to Oulton Park with Motorsport vision: http://www.motorsportvision.co.uk/oulto ... noviceonly Theres lots of others, Anglesey is a really good one apparently. Airfield days are another option too (more run off if you get it wrong but not such a good track). Mine was supposed to be "sessioned" where you go out for 20 mins then back in for another group to go out. But there wasnt many there so they ran it "open pit lane" where you can come and go on track as you please. I went out for 20 and back in for 20 I think, so about 2hrs tracktime in total - I could have stayed out ALL afternoon if I was mean to my car- but it was surprisingly exhausting all that concentration!

oooooh dont mention the "R" word at a trackday! :nono: for insurance and organisers purposes there is absolutely no racing or timing going on. Its just you VS the track :D and you will be briefed as such. I used around £35 of optimax in the half day. Sounds like good prep, also make sure you have AA or some recovery in case it does go pear shaped or you break down. Make sure you get a few 1000 miles on those tyres to scrub them in - my mate was going all out in his clio cup 172 on new toyo proxies and the front nearside was a mess afterwards!

I just did my first one last week at Oulton Park - £99 for the afternoon (£10 for passengers). I was worried people scaremongering about brakes and tyres, so I bled new brake fluid through (as I'd had the car a year and didnt know when it was last changed), checked my discs and pads had plenty of meat and checked the tyre tread would be legal to get me home afterwards. One think I will mention is my oil temp went up to 138 (110 normally) degrees on track and water temp was rock solid at 105 ish. Tyres were blistering and small chunks coming off. My front wishbone rear bushes were on their way out to start with and now they are completely shot. Any weakness in your car (cooling system, brakes, handling) is likely to be exaggerated on track so fix it first. In the end the brakes never felt like they were fading at all and proved up to my driving. What normally happens is you go out behind a safety car for the first couple of laps to learn the lines and corners. Then you are free to go round. Dont stay out much longer than 20mins or so, if you are doing it properly your oil temp will be high and road spec brakes stinking hot after this so let the car cool back to normal before going out for another 20 mins. Always do a careful first lap to get some heart in the tyres and then a cool down lap where you dont use the brakes afterwards. Also leave it in gear rather than on the handbrake when parked up to prevent disc warp/ your car wondering off when the brakes cool. I had a fantastic day, it was supposed to be a novice day but they iopened it up at the last minute to anyone. Hence plenty of much faster people were going round, I never had a problem moving out of their way or overtaking slower cars. On the pistonheads site a few recommend a day at Teeside Autodrome - £99 for a full day and free for passengers. Consider some insurance - most don't bother including my friend who ran a £42k year old Z4M coupe. Also see: http://clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=168329 My pics at: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=70361

Um nah. Leather option seats are exactly the same as standard seats but with leather covers (both early and late style), these are the seats Storms came with. Then there was the Recaro sports seat option (extended bolsters and tilt handles on both sides, recaro logo on the seat back) which came with cloth or leather covering. To confuse matters almost ALL VW seats were actually made by Recaro..... Only those badged Recaro and with the extended bolsters etc are the Recaro sports seat option.

Yup Leather was an option on all of them, plenty about. Leather Recaro is rare but crop up now and then.

Sounds like the problem may be the centre bore of the wheels or adapters?

Mate at work has a 190. Feels solidly built but the interior is a little naff - the "leather" interior is only leather on the front faces of the front seats. Seat position is lost every time you slide it forward for rear access which is very annoying. Apparently the finish on the alloys is poor leading to rapid corrosion, a decent refurb will sort. Meant to be a great drive, 190 quick if peaky and a little manic as it needs to be revved. Not much in it between a 190 and a Corrado VR6 - although the VR6 edges it slightly on torque.

Yep used them a few times, first for peugeot 306 wishbones and again for Corrado Vr6 wishbones (reasonable quality Quinton hazel parts). Prices are ex vat and delivery is always 7.50 though. http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/

What do we think of this? really like the way they look on Mk1 GTIs and Fiesta STs, how do they work on my corrado?

I mean this I think: https://sslrelay.com/buypartsby.co.uk/s ... ordID=1517 Incidently that website is cheap for tools and parts, but not good to search

Duh, I feel stupid now! I've been using VAGCAT for ages for the diagrams but never trusted the part numbers! Thanks very much! Maybe your little guide could be stickied or put in the knowledge base? Theres a random M8 nut on there at the moment, and it isnt held still by the "cage" of the selector. This makes it almost impossible to tighten properly. Hence I'll get the correct part, EDIT: 0.26 euro is ok for a nut!

Definatley. Early VR6 cars had large spring plates. In 1994(?) they changed to small topped springs and small plates (the smaller top spring gave an improved ride apparently). Most lowering springs are designed for use with the earlier large spring plates as the springs are also compatible with G60 and earlier than VR6 cars so the spring maker only needs to make one spring for the corrado. You need a pair of those larger spring plates as you have a later VR. Cost is approx £35 from VW, just ask for a a pair of front spring top plates for a 1992 VR6.

Why did they bother with VAGCAT, lots of part numbers are out of order and dont correspond to the part indicated. Anyway, I'm after the part number for the little captive bolt that sits in the gear linkage, under the shift weight and cable. Its numbered 50 in the diagram, vagcat calls it a "gasket" with part number: N 90429401 Thats clearly wrong, its mroe likely to be 51 which is described as "nut, square M8" with part number 1J0711256 Can anyone confirm this who has the proper etka? Cheers.

On the first dial, it might not be the dial controls broken. Mine was the same and it turned out to be the flap in the heater box that was broken. This is a dash out job to sort. The 3rd dial, it might just be that someone has put the wrong knob back on. They are different and if the wrong one is put back it pushes on the copper and means it only works on 4. Try all 3 knobs on the 3rd dial to see.

Video of me and friends driving by: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSQOPTw_nis The 2.0 16v clio 172 cup sounds amazing, just a pipercross foam filter as the only mod. The 3.2 Z4M Coupe sounds great too, but then my little 2.9 VR6 comes past! Hence me fitting the magnex and wanting a CDA, lol I need more noise on full chat!

Cheers. I'm one of the few people in this world who prefer cloth to leather so I'm not fussed, but cloth recaros would be nice! The car had a respray before I bought it too, so the paint work is still pretty good.

Just realised that there no pictures of my latest C on here - my previous Aqua Blue machine is here - viewtopic.php?f=11&t=33061&p=368074#p368074 I've since had another MK2 GTI 8v but missed the C too much! I bought it last Nov having just had timing chains done so it was spot on engine wise. Unfortunatley it took a little tidying up - the usual small jobs that people can't be bothered to do but all add up. Now its spot on mechanically and cosmetically after spending 6 months collecting little bits and pieces. Well last week the best girlfriend in the world paid for me a trackday at Oulton Park for my birthday. I've been itching to get on track for ages and the car was running well. I'm only just 6ft but I had to have the sunroof open to give me some headroom when wearing a helmet! Unfortunatley the day before the trackday the water pump failed, I had a mad rush to get another and sort it out, hence why the car isn't clean in the pics! The only mods at the moment are the refurbed Storm spec BBS Solitude wheels, red rear light clusters, clear side reps and a small chin spoiler (so I can get in my garage). Oh and the side strips have been removed. Previously (when I picked it up) the car had a few mods all of which I removed. I have a magnex cat back system waiting to go on, new front wishbone bushes (the time on track highlighed how bad they are!), keeping my eye out for a BMC CDA and some suitable suspension so I can keep up with my mates Clio 172 Cup through the corners on track! Oh, and a damn good clean and polish to come!

Pretty common. VW used some kind of loctite on the splines of the stub and in the wheel bearing making it hard to get off. To get mine off I was seriously smacking it as hard as I could which a lump hammer and drift for ages. This resulted in the end of the stub "belling" out and I couldn't gett he nut back on. I had to use an angle grinder to remove the belling and then a thread file to clean the thread up, major PITA that took a few hours. Good job they left plenty of thread on the end of the stub eh. Best to use a puller (they sell one for this task that bolts on with the wheel bolts) next time. If it wasnt a sunday when I was doing mine I would have happily paid 25 to save a couple of hours greif. Depends if you enjoy fixing these things but I was frustrated with the job that was onluy supposed to take an hour taking more like 7 hours.

Same here! and I got 17mpg on a track day ffs! Maybe I wasnt trying hard enough, but the VR6 is really very good on petrol.

Ah ok, mine looks just like this, so I am now re-assured.

Can you get a picture of a front wishbone rear bush please. My new one has come with holes in it and I'm not sure if thats correct?