was8v

That doesn't sound right! Cost almost £70 last time I filled up at 106p. It was on the white line beyond the red though. They aren't bad though, mine does an MFA reading of 31mpg (on the long term position 2, never reset) for a 8 mile daily commute and 100mile round trip twice a week.

whoa! thread ressurection! The OEM VW bars did fine without the short roof kit (and look best as they are "aero" bars). Also Thule / VW aren't the only choice - see viewtopic.php?f=15&t=59941&hilit= for automaxi

Since the OEM unit is around £300 and you have to drop the rear axle to fit it (£££££), most recommend a cat-back stainless system for around £300 instead of the OEM unit - Magnex / supersprint / borla (most avoid powerflow). Pattern exhausts are available eg walker etc but the quality is not so good, plus they may still only come as a combined middle and back box. You could chop and use a join instead of dropping the rear axle. If the "suitcase" as it is known is on its way out then its likely the back box is not far off too?

A 40 profile 17" tyre would be better, but wow what a colour! Wheel colour really suits too!

I was under the impression the Golf Mk3 part is interchangeable with all Corrado (good as its common in scrappies). If the golf part didn't work maybe theres something else wrong with your sunroof? I have a flat Golf switch fitted to my 1992 VR6 which originally has the "finger" style switch.

Make sure all the rust is gone! then use something like KUrust and a decent primer. http://www.paints4u.com/ for matched aerosols.

Another vote for using genuine parts for critical bits. I've had cheap waterpumps fail in 4 months and wheel bearings fail in 6 months. Just not worth the aggro of replacing AGAIN for the sake of a few quid.

IIRC they won't sell just the knob you have to buy the full heater controls unit.

Aye I did this too. The knobs have the same part number on them even though they are different!

PM'd thanks. I'm up in Lancaster.

Hang on just re-read your post - whats too small your springs or the caps? The only differences are the springs and their caps. They need to match obviously. If you have springs with a small top and large caps - then my springs (with large tops) will help you out. If you have springs with a large top and small caps - then you need the caps I have spare (part number int he thread linked above). I bought my car and didn't get on with the lowered (cheapo GMAX) suspension, so I went back to standard early springs and Monroe gas dampers. Early standard suspension sits a fair bit lower than late standard suspension so my car is comfortable without having the 4x4 ride height of the late standard cars. I can't comment on the comparison to yourt current setup as I haven't tried out the koni setup.

Yes you only need the larger early spring plates. As it happens I have a brand new pair for sale as I bought a set but didn't end up needing them. The aprt number is also in this thread. viewtopic.php?f=13&t=66630 Early VRs came with large ones, late came with small. Commonly lowering springs need large but a few need small to add to the confusion! I also have a set of early VR dampers for FREE (if you pay the courier charge), not immaculate but not leaking. viewtopic.php?f=13&t=67475 I can even include a pair of early VR standard front springs if you want / need them though it looks like you have them

are they subaru fitment? if so you'll need some kind of spacer for these and poss the centre bore of the wheel machining I think. How are you planning to mount them?

Can we get other stuff from these? May be cheaper than using the stealer for VAG original parts!

They are on my VR too, wondered what they are.

Yup its exactly right! btw GSF are doing free delivery on web orders at the moment - £13.25 plus vat to your door. Bear in mind these pattern ones won't be as good as genuine ones or Febi ones from vwspares.co.uk

Good idea, but I can see issues with this.... Decent axle stands normally triangulate the load over a large area -that stand doesn't look terrbily stable alone. Will the wheels on the front take the load without splaying out? Normally jacks have wheels under the jack or a roller between the front. It might end up being a crap jack and a crap axle stand...... But a very good idea for the home mechanic......interesting

As if by magic here is the new one i bought for my VR the other day (GSF). I presume the nylock nut gets discarded unless it fits the lower bolt.

Yeah whenever I got clunking I redid both nuts. I think a neighbour has air tools so will be round to his later.....

Nope its pretty much a "clunk" going over bumps / rough surface / on sharp acceleration etc. Springs are seated correctly in the cap as thats the reason i had the struts apart in the first place. Righto thats what I wanted to hear (that I'm not alone). Will get the use of air tools......

I have early VR6 springs (large top) and plates (large) and I have no idea when the top mounts are from. I thought all VR6 top mounts are the same? I know pre-1993 non Vr6 use a different spring plate and top mount. The top mounts are in good nick so must have been replaced at some point. When I first undid the nuts they wer hellishly tight - I used a massive pole over breaker bar to undo them, there no way I can get them taht tight again without an air gun. The weird thing is when I went to tighten the nuts they were still tight. Removing them and replacing and tightening them gets rid of the clunk. This is the drivers side only by the way. I suppose the soplution is to get them buzzed up with an airgun.

Last time I bought one of these they insisted I buy the "cover" as well. Anyone know what this is for? I never used it.....couldn't see where it goes? Defo get these abs rotors when you get new discs - if you reuse the old ones you will only have to pull the discs off again in a couple of months to replace them.

Recently had the front suspension apart and it all went back OK. I assembled the struts off the car and tightened the nuts up. However a couple of days after putting it back together I get clunking noises which was the lower top nut on the strut. Now the clunking returned yesterday so I nipped the nut up again. I use a sawn off allen key and a 6mm socket to hold the strut still while tightening the nut and swing off it to get it as tight as poss. Any ideas on how to keep it tight? I don't want to have to re-tighten every couple of weeks!

I had some mates in my old corrado in the middle of wales once and they were discussing how the C was "like that car off back to the future". Pulled into a petrol station and what should roll up behind us..... but yes a deloreon. LOL.

Check your local yellow pages for an alternator / starter specialist place - these type of places do them for GSF etc. They will take your alternator and recon it for much less than GSF charge if you can do without it. Theres a couple in the Bolton area. EuroCrapParts charge about £12 IIRC for a Continental brand serp belt. They have free delivery at the moment on web orders.