was8v

Wiring in the total closure is only 1 wire and no extra bits on the C as it already has total closure (hold your key in the lock position a while when locking the doors and you will see). I guess he has to research and locate the right wire but £30 extra?

yeah mine weeps a little from there but shows good compression and doesn't appear to use much oil at all.

They are in just about every VR6 1994 on! Black with purple "champagne flutes"....

Mine was exactly the same: Look for any air leaks / holed pipes between the airbox and throttle. Remove and clean the ISV (Idle stabilisation valve) with carb cleaner. (this sorted mine and is very easy to do). Do a search on here for instructions, its quite common. Get the fault codes read from the ABS ecu - easy to do with a laptop, an ebay cable and VAG-COM software. If the light comes on it must log the fault.

nice! £10K !!!!!!! or did you mean €10k (if so, bargain of the year)?

1) VRs can be a bit tappety, shouldn't be a rattly though and should quieten once warmed 2) Vaccum hose split / missing to the clocks 3) Brakes should feel better than MK2 GTI brakes 4) VRs can seem a bit slow until you get over 3k revs Best bet is to see a few - maybe come to an owners club meet or show and get an enthusiat to take you out in an immaculate one. tehse may be out of your budget but will give you an idea of what to aim for. Take a laptop and fire VAG-COM up ona potential purchase, will soon tell you if any sensors are out.

hummm I think the nearest I can get is an E46 328i or 330i, hell even an E36 M3 Evo. I have a major image problem with BMW tho.

After owning a couple of Corrado VR6s I can't see anything that appeals to me to get next (sept/oct). This has probably been done to death but its really bugging me, I can't face selling to get a characterless 1.8T Cupra R or S3. Corrado +ves: -190bhp -6 cylinder soundtrack and N/A power delivery -fantastic looks Corrado VR6 -ves: -Ageing so it breaks often -Crashworthiness (in comparison to newer cars) What is there out there for less than £7k that has the corrado's postives and deals with its negatives? Something by BMW? Golf V6 4-Mo (dull?) A Mercedes CLK (lol)? AAARGH!

charged 24v with a trick gearbox to handle the power :)

I'd leave a note and knock on doors near there. Apply for the logbook ASAP- this is normal procedure and a legal way of dealing with abandoned cars IIRC. Give it a clean and pump the tyres as above. Once the log book comes through (bear in mind you will be registered keeper NOT the owner) remove it and stash in your garage for a few months to be sure before spending any money on it. A private plate will help disguise the ID if you plan to keep it local. Hardly worth it for a probably broken 16v - defo worth it if it was that cossie above!

Which side goes to the gearbox? gasket or no gasket? 50/50 chance i've done it right......

wuppa = woohoo! my sarcastic way of celebrating a great decision by VW! I suppose its lasted 110k miles so that plenty really! No they aren't asbestos - would be good if the boots were! There wasn't one on my last VR6's either. viewtopic.php?f=23&t=63376&p=739490&hilit=shield+vr6+cv#p739490

Nope cos VR6's didnt get them apparently, wuppa.

I'd get under the car (out of gear) and hold the driveshaft whilst trying to rotate the gearbox end of the inner cv / drive cup. With my new inner CV there is no play, with the old there was a quite a bit of play - if theres a fair bit it might be worth doing them?

Aldi stores have one that fits perfectly in the hump on special offer at the moment!

3 things cause a missfire: 1) no spark 2) no fuel 3) no compression Easiest to check is 1) so check your leads and coilpack. Unfortunatley these are difficult to check as issues may only occur under load (as you are experiencing). Try the obvious like spray a mist of water over the ht leads and coilpack in the dark and look for sparks. Look for any cracks in the coilpack (although I had one on my 1st VR6 that broke down internally giving the same symptoms as you). Try and borrow a known good coilpack and ht leads or just buy new if they are original. I bought GSF leads (big mistake, buy some OEM from vagparts.com) and a used known good coilpack. Pull your plugs and check for fouling that would kill a spark. My 1st VR6 would foul the plug on no6 with oil deposits as it was worn, and I had to change the plus every couple of 1000 miles - it still ran perfect the rest fo the time and made good power. 2) My 2nd VR6 was missfiring due a dodgy injector squirting too much fuel and dousing the spark - to check for this remove the upper inlet manifold and pull the injector rail - you can test by lining up 6 jars over the injectors. be careful not to get fuel everywhere! check the flow pattern if one is weird than likely to be the problem. Also check for fuel leaks along the length of the lines. 3) A compression test will reveal problems here.

Did you ever solve this? You could feel a "shunt" as if there was play taking up drive on changing gear in my car. This also made a bit of a clunk noise. You could feel a bit of play when rotating the O/S driveshaft by hand. Changing my drivers side inner CV (grease had all dried up due to proximity to exhaust manifold) improved it no end. At 120k yours is pretty simialr mileage to mine at 112k so your grease is likely to have dried up too if the driveshafts have never been off. I should have inspected my passenger side CV too whilst I was there really, one for next weekend maybe.

Feel the bottom of the door card, if its wet then the membrane behind it has come unstuck, easy fix. Otherwise, sunroof drains blocked or poorly sealed windscreen. All these are fairly common, try a search on here.

My car definatley felt more responsive (and less noisy) with the standard airbox than with the open k&n 57i it came with. These filters (k&n cone and foam filters) suffer from sucking the hot air from around the engine, the standard airbox takes fresh air from behind the headlight. Theres rolling road evidence on here to back this up. You'd be better off compartmentalising the filter off from the engine, or fitting a BMC CDA which is regarded as the best option for VR6s as it sucks air from the original location.

I settled on some: FUCHS TITAN XTR 10W-40 SEMI-SYNTH ENGINE OIL 5L for £12.57 inc next day delivery from GSFcarparts.com (along with a GKN inner CV). Click "top lines" at the bottom of the page. They never used to deliver fluids, but they do now it seems and with free delivery. Great cos I didn't even need to leave my desk :)

You can do a wet compression test to see which end is not sealing. Do a dry compression test and note the figures. Then put a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder and repeat. The oil will seal the bores temporarily - so if your wet figures are the same as dry then the head is not sealing (head gasket, stem seals etc) but if the figures are higher then the rings are not sealing the bores. You can get a draper compression tester for £15. The golf 2.8 block will apaprently work fine with the 2.9 top end etc. Be careful not to get a block out of a sharan / galaxy because they ahve some differences iirc.

Car looks great, glad you put it back on the road, well worth the effort! I have one of these handbrake gaiters, much better than the naff plastic bit VW used!

Cheers. Yeah my normal vr6 bolts work well. Cool-thanks i'm looking at some similar wheels.

A real nice auto will come in under 3k if you keep your eyes open. The auto boxes werent the best and autos are less desirable.

Hmm after a search of Vortex I'm not so sure the dished washer is necessary, which would make it easier to get the circlip on: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3679343 Right I did it properly - see viewtopic.php?f=23&t=68109&p=793043#p793043 - best to remove the driveshaft completely from the car or you can't get that circlip on as the joint needs to be compressed into the dished washer.