was8v

Just to clarify - I assume you meant you shouldn't be able to turn the shaft with the wheels on the ground. With the wheel off the ground you can easily turn the driveshaft while getting the 6 spline bolts out of the inner cv.

Righto the hell is over! Fr a job thats supposed to take 2.5 hrs it took me around 9hrs! heres a compressed version of my inner CV journey: - drive over pit and jack front end (support with stands) and remove wheel - Undo 6 spline bolts holding drive shaft to gearbox (easy) - find out I can't drop the driveshaft and cv down as theres no room between sump and wishbone - undo balljoint to give me some room - manage to get old inner CV off drive shaft and mount new one - find it impossible to get circlip back on whilst under car - put balljoint back and drop car on wheels - use a breaker bar plus long metal pole to undo hub nut - jack back up - remove wheel again and hub nut - tap the hub end of drive shaft to remove - knock the LIVING DAYLIGHTS out of it with a lump hammer (using a variety of wooden bits to protect thread) - resort to smaking it with a metal drift and lump hammer - eventually (due to the amount of loctite VW used at the factory) free off the end of driveshaft - undo balljoint again and withdraw the shaft from splined hub - thread the driveshaft down near gearbox end - mount driveshaft in vice - finally get the circlip fitted to the end of the inner cv (use a 30mm socket to bash it down) - find out because you bashed the crap out of the end of the threaded section of the driveshaft it hass "Belled" out and nut wont go back on - use a grinder to remove the belled first 2mm of the thread - use a thread file to clean up the end of the thread - reinstall the drive shaft in position and into hub - do up the 6 spline inner cv bolts (grease the cv up first) - replace the balljoint with a new one as old was looking tired - repalce hub nut - drop the car on wheels - tighen the hub nut with big metal bar extension drive off noise and clunk free! The old inner CV was original i think and its proximity to the exhaust had turned the grease to a stiff paste. Not a great design but it lasted 110k miles so adequate! Main points to note: - YOU CAN'T DO THE INNER CV ON A VR WITH THE DRIVESHAFT ON THE CAR - save yourself time and take it off - THE HUB END MAY BE STUCK FAST WITH LOCTITE! especially if its never been out before. - Would be better to use a press or puller to get it out than a lump hammer. If its been off before it will probs drop out.

Hmm after a search of Vortex I'm not so sure the dished washer is necessary, which would make it easier to get the circlip on: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3679343

Just to verify this is anyone else is going to do this: -Once undone the inner cv doesn't drop down, the shaft wont fit between the sump and wishbone. -You can undo the balljoint to get a bit of room (enough to get the old CV off and the new one on) -But good luck to you in getting the circlip back on! I couldn't do it.

Yeah you're right its not needed I hadn't actually looked at it before. Yeah I didn't get an new one and I can't get the old one back on!

AAARGH Got the old inner CV out without removing the hub - grease was all dried up. Get the new one on and HOW the hell can I get circlip on? it doesn't go on far enough AAAARGH! So then I decide to undo the hub nut to remove the whole driveshaft so i can carry on off the car and try and get the circlip on. Hub nut comes off, does the drive shaft want to come out of the hub NO! I smacked it with a lump hammer and wood to protect it, I knocked 7 bells out of it: IT ISNT SHIFTING So then i use a metal drift, and I dmage the thread on the end. Well that was my evening 6pm til 10.30 pm and it still ain't fixed. Looks like i'll need to buy an outer cv to replace thread now.

Right o got my CV today. A GKN from GSF (44 ex vat). In the kit there are no ties to hold the new boot onto the axle! Suerly thats not right? They should supply those? Also there is no circlip? theres 2 conical bent washers, one serrated on the inside and one not? I'm going to have to reuse the circlip?! Very odd being incomplete! GRRR!

Maybe you had the "active" option with an amp somewhere hidden away. Yes door cards need to be taken off to fit any speakers!

My new starter didn't come with a new bush.....

Yeah I was going to use the old "shove some blu tack in" to see what bolt seat I need. Also M14 bolts will have a bigger head than M12? Will search Coxylaad's posts now.

They look the nads! Can you confirm the VW bolts go through the holes in the Subaru wheels? Please see: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=68163

I am thinking of some subaru fitment wheels for my VR- lots of them around and very cheap in 16". EG: Issues: 1) need spacers (easy enough) 2) Centre bore needs to be made bigger Vr6= 57mm Subaru = 56mm (not too difficult) 3) Subaru uses M12 bolts to mount wheels VW use M14 That last one may be the killer - does anyone know if the M14 VW bolts fit throught the Subaru holes OK?

Can a drivers side (ruight hand side) inner CV be done without undoing the hub nub? I.e. can it be dropped between the sump and wishbone? The balljoint could be seperated I guess to add some room? Has anyone done it without undoing the hub nut? I have a pit so can get under the car easily. Cheers.

Thanks, looks like I'll order one tomorrow. Just been out in the car and its getting worse: At low speed Under braking its silent above around 20mph its silent.

On taking up drive forwards I get a rattly clunk, then again on taking up drive in reverse. If I let the clutch up quickly from 1st to 2nd I get a clunk. Occaisionally get a rattle over rough surfaces and occaisional clunky rattly noise at low speed (crawling 1st gear). Noise seems to come from drivers side wheel only at low speeds. No detectable play in wheel bearing. No detectable play in outer CV (no clicking noise on full lock). Inner CV appears to have a little play - when rotating drive shaft with wheel off clicky rattly noise comes from the area of the drivers side inner cv. I've checked all suspension bolts are tight, wishbone bushes are past their best. Does this sound like an inner CV or am I blinkered? Could it be the diff? It must be something in the final drive? Any help appreciated before I fit a new inner CV.

However mine says it returns as good as 30mpg on the MFA long term setting - thats as good if not better than any new car with similar performance. And they are selling lots of new performance cars....

look on GSF website and see if they have the same part numbers?

Yep the price for a nice mk2 GTI in original condition wanting for nothing is £1200-1500. Not so long ago (3 years?) they struggled to make a £800. When I was first looking for a C VR6 (3 yrs ago) I was looking at a minimum of £3k for a reasonable one and 4.5-5.5k for a minty one. Now I'd expect to pay the same, maybe 2.5k now I know what / where to look and to wait until Xmas for the bargains. There is ALLWAYS a lull in used car prices December to March and we are on the tail end of this. I don't think we stand to lose any money on Corrados.

Bargain mate - just found your thread! 124k is not a high miler, you'd struggle to find one with much less. Run round with that bonnet until a late one in red comes up - might look better sprayed black or something tho! Your wheels suit the corrado better than the original estorils too. Advertise the old estorils on clubgti.co.uk or on ed38 - Mk2 Golf owners go mad for them polished up so you should get good money for them.

Ouch yes they were exactly like that but painted finish nobody wanted em even for £20 (as I couldnt find another) so the scrap man had them for £30. I've only ever seen them on SAABs (factory option) but they are a different stud pattern (mine were 4x100 et24, presume E30 fit). 1 was bent after hitting a kerb in my golf, 2 were perfect and 1 had a ding in the inside rim. If you are quick Morecambe Metals might not have recycled them yet :gag: . I kept the centre caps and the security bolts/key to hold the centres on if they are any use to you?

I'd tack a bracket at each corner to hold the skin in position, then use black gutter sealant to fill the gap. Will end up looking standard from the outside and will allow a bit of flex. see: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.p ... stcount=25

As said before break the front end, should easy get over a grand (if its a VR). I've seen a few OK VRs going for around £1500 these days. I missed a really nice one the other day with 130k and only a broken bonnet cable. Gutted for you. I already carry and extinguisher, but maybe I should be getting one of these too: http://www.motionperformance.co.uk/Rich ... _info.html

Prices are high for non-ferrous metals so nows the time to do it!

I've had a set of very rare Ronal R14 15" alloys knocking round my garden for a while. I tried to sell em on ebay but no bids (one is bent and I couldn't find another matching). Just been and weighed them in, they gave me £28 Also took down a fooked old Bosch 70ah battery and they gave me £4.80 for that too! They buy old cat converters too. With prices this good, maybe others need a clear out!

Tough one. Gemini 6 speed kits cost around £2k but now discontinued. Add the cost of a quaiffe, labour and a VR6 box and its a very expensive gearbox. Best bet would be to advertise on forums and ebay it.