was8v

Ah was hoping there was an easier way. Have used normal Vanish upholstry cleaner in the past to little effect. I'll give the autoglym a go next time!

erg, the mind boggles at that diagram. I may be getting confused with MK2 golfs: http://clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.p ... pedal+clip Not sure if the corrado is a similar setp being hydralic clutch.

Is there not a little plastic clip on stop for the clutch pedal that can fall off causing it to sit too high? I think there is, have a look see if its floating round in the footwell and clip it back on.

What do you use get the seats that clean? Steam cleaner? I can never seem to get them minted when they are in that condition. Car is looking great btw.

LOL :lol: no I don't seem to learn, I'm always in impossible deadline situations, e.g. this time a track day tomorrow and there was no possible way I could have got to a VAG dealer today at an hour it was open even if they had one in stock! :mad2: Another piece of advise: DO AS I SAY NOT AS I DO :lol: I'll be ordering a VW one and keeping it on the shelf so I wont be complaining again. But FFS how does a company make money selling poor quality parts?!! EDIT: Guys on CGTI seem to agree its the poor quality pumps - http://www.clubgti.com/FORUM/showthread.php?t=168682

My thoughts too. However surely it would pop a hose (all seemingly original) or crack pipe (the original is on and worries me) before a water pump? The header tank doesnt seem excessively pressurised when removing the cap, certain never when cold (HGF) and no more so when hot than any other time i've done it on other cars. The temp guage never goes over 100 degrees for long either. I did however use cheapo coolant in the system last time I did it as it was all I could get hold of at the time. I have some VW pink stuff in the garage for this time round. Maybe the cheap stuff doesn't have bearing lubricant in as it should? Who knows.

Not again!!!!! FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFK The motor factor supplied pump has now failed (coolant coming from the valve). Unfortunatly I am doing a track day at Oulton Park on weds, so no time to order in a VW one. Going to have to lump it and take it back to the motor factor for another crappy replacement. Expect another update in 3 months time. This will be my 4th water pump in 8 months. BUY WATERPUMPS FROM VW FOLKS!!!!!!!!!!

This thread is exciting, sooo hoping they get it back: http://octane.ie/forum/showthread.php?t=17611&page=10 Uber rare white Evo-X Rolled out of a container in ireland on Friday, stolen by taking keys from house and moving a jeep out of the way on Saturday night. Just checking back and its been spotted by a number of forum members this morning travelling down the M50. Hoping the local police get into gear and pick it up! Gutted for the owner if they don't!! Keep clicking refresh.....

Its because the motors take a LOT of current to operate. Theres only a single supply wire going from the fuse box to the controller, if they were to design them so they could be operated together VW would have had to lay 2 supply wires and have another fuse at the fuse box. Penny pinching :roll:

hummm he is looking for roofbars for a 205 isn't he? I'd always get roof bars off ebay, must be loads for peugeot 205s on there for like £20 or something.

First port of call is a diagnostic readout to check for fault codes. Get it hooked up to VAGCOM.

Easy peasy, connect K, L, +12v and GND I wonder why they bothered with the OBDII connector, lots of surplus pins! Although I suppose it makes them standard for cars of the age.

Heres a pinout of the 2x2 connectors: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=69735&st=0&sk=t&sd=a#p809850 If you can find a pinout of the big OBDII connector you can hook your own adapter up to the correct lines. Plenty on ebay cheap too: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0242255291 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0247841501

TBH AFAIK there are only 2 economically viable options: 1) Drop in a 2.8 2) 24v conversion Easiest and cheapest is to just drop a golf/sharan/passat 2.8 in - lots around from auto sharans that have had easy lives. Or if you want to spend some money, a 24v represents much better VFM than a rebuilt 12v. Unless the car really is immaculate, concours condition then theres little point in paying extra for a rebuilt 2.9. You might get lucky and find a 2.9 in great recently rebuilt condition for a good price keeping your eye on ebay and forums. If you have the contacts for a cheap rebuild then go for it, but at £2k for a vege when you compare prices of 24v then why would you?

Where did you get the sensor from? Cheers.

Just got my magnex stainless rear hanger made by Dave! Fantastic quality welding etc and cheaper than magnex themselves. Thanks!

Well I hope this takes it forward a bit. ECU pin data for VW - http://derby.polog40.co.uk/~paul/pindata_vw.pdf go to p30 for vr6. AFAIK its a grey/white wire for the K line and yellow for the L line, try hooking up directly to the vag com wire along with any 12v and ground as per the connector pinout in my previous post. See also: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3799758 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3798799 You may not need to hook the L line up, as just the K line is for comms, L "wakes" the ecu or something. Also make sure these comms wires arent grounded elsewhere or they wont work.

Yes only late coilpack cars (95/96???) had immobilisers. My old '94 L plate didnt have one. You can tell by the ignition key, the ones without immobiliser are just the plain thin Vw keys, with immob they are bit chunkier to hide the transponder. This being a conversion though the original key might be taped up with the reciever coil somewhere behind the dash.

I'm sure the diagnostic wires can be tapped into near the ecu plug and connected that way. Stick pins through the K line and L line and 12v and ground and connect up your VAG com lead with spades. I can't find my ECU pinout pdf at the moment, if you dont have a bentley manual PM me and I will dig something very useful out for you. Pinout of the vag com lead attached.

From the diagnosis of no spark and VAG com not finding the ECU, I'd suspect no power to the ECU. Get a pin out of the ECU (bentley manual) and stick a pin through the correct wire and see if its getting power. Superglue the pin holes up afterwards. Theres a million and two things it could be though, sounds like you need a decent auto electrician - not something you are likely to find at a dealership.

Should have a dizzy on a 92 K like mine, not a coilpack. But yeah sounds like a bit of a missfire. I'd check or replace plugs/leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm first as critical said. The problem with these kind of intermittent missfires is they are evry difficult to trace, you replace something and think its fixed and then it comes back 2 days later. Usually intermittent misses are electrical though so check/replace the above. Those parts are cheap for quality parts from vagspares.co.uk - stay away from cheapo GSF leads tho.

I agree thats the weak point, but AFAIK the driveshaft with the larger diameter that thins at the ends will deflect less under load than the small one. Its academic anyway really as unless you encounter any problems I doubt theres any point in swapping them. VW over-engineering again - I'd expect the CV would give way before the driveshaft snaps!

I run Monroe Gas dampers (previous owner fitted) so no experience of KYB on a C. Theres a few people running them (forum search KYB). KYB shocks are very popular in Jap car / Impreza circles and well priced from buypartsby.

Early suspension FTW (I have some good early front springs for cheap - PM) lose the tractor height but not the ride. When i did the rear shocks on my GF's corsa (the rear was very bouncy) the old shocks felt the same pulling them up and down by hand as the new cheapo shocks. But with the new shocks on it isn't as bouncy. Basically you can't really tell unless they are a leaking rusty mess what they are like on the inside. When a new pair of good KYB gas front shocks are only £52 ex VAT from http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/shock-absorbers-vw.php its hardly worth putting old ones back on. FYI all Corrados came with non gas shocks except the VR6 which came with gas assist rear shocks only.

The photo in the post a number of posts prior to my post, - i.e. on the first page of the thread. The only photos currently in this thread, or to put it another way: the photos of the driveshaft which this thread is all about. :D In fact my driveshaft looks to have almost twice the diameter of that spindly silver one, and narrows at either end to the CVs.