was8v

Theres more headroom than a corrado!

I'd hope they come and pick yours up and fix it for free! Sounds like you have a very lucky escape mate, had it happened at motorway speeds I dread to think what the outcome would be.

I rang my local dealer (cumberland view) and they said they couldn't tell me for data protection reasons, and they have moved to a new system (i think thasts the real reason). A call to VW as above and they did it off the chassis number.

I vote coilpack too, but pull the spark plugs of the middle cylinders after running to see if they are fouled or wet with fuel. Could also be a faulty injector.

AFAIK: You can keep the dizzy head / management / throttle body etc, just swap the bottom end - but you'll obviously need to split the head and take the opportunity to stick new chains and tensioners on. Or you can just swap the dizzy bits onto the new head I think. Or you can swap the whole new engine and new management and loom over (prob best as the OBDII is better). 2.8 blocks work with 2.9 heads and vice versa. There may be small differences in galaxy/sharan engines? Coil packs came in sometime in 1993.

Car tax is ridiculous IMO, they should let you pay for 12 months from the day you pay, and refund you from the day they get if back for refund. Modern computer systems would easily allow it. Instead they make you pay full whack for as little as 1 day left in the month, and will only refund full months left. grrrr.

Only thign specific to G60's is to check the supercharger has been serviced recently or budget for it to be done by a specialist. Otherwise usual car things apply!

Just a quickie - maybe worth a stickie :lol: If you want to check your car's history (or a potential purchase) then a quick call to VW customer care on 0800 0833 914 will let you know the service dates and mileages your car was serviced at VW dealers.

Um, whats the expiry date on disc? I didn't think they could sell you a disc valid from a future date (unless you're renewing and have a valid disc for the current month)? I just bought a disc today that expires 31st July 09 (as my last disc expires 31st jan 09). If yours expires 31st July 09 or 31st Jan 10 then you shouldn't use it as technically its not valid this month (Jan). In this case your car is officially sorned until midnight 31st Jan 09 so if you get ANPR'd tomorrow or a copper notices the disc then you may be liable for a fine. If your new disc expires June 09 or Dec 09 then theres no problem with using it as you've payed the full whack for this month (jan) and will only get 1.5 days use.

Looks stunning in that colour and with those wheels!

Take the Corrado! Go and wring its neck. If anything blows up then it would have blown up on the road eventually anyway. An old banger will quickly become a liability, only take a good condition car! I've done 2 track days at Oulton, great fun. Theres plenty of run off if anything goes wrong. Idiots and dangerous drivers are kept off the track. You will soon want for more suitable track suspension though!

Just about passed! I reseated all vacuum hoses on the inlet side, checked the exhaust over pre-cat, fitted new dizzy cap & rotor, new air filter, new oil and filter, half a tank of V power and a damn good thrashing of the engine must have had some effect as it passed.

Cheers, temp reported in vag com appears to follow the dash display, AFAIK they default to 77 degress if they are faulty? Although i suppose it could be under-reading too. New air filter on the way and i've done an oil service, so just to get it nice and hot for the retest on weds. Failing that KADVR6 on here has a low miles cat and lambda I can put on.

My VR recently failed MOT on emissions. From my reading around I've established that these cheap replacement cats (and universal lambdas) are nowhere near the quality of the originals. They are designed as cheapo get me through an MOT quick jobs and unlikely to last more than a couple of years, unlike the originals which last well over 100k miles. So just weigh up how long you are likely to keep the car for I suppose.

http://www.petercoopercarrepairs.co.uk/new_page_3.htm Thios has been useful. I shall use an oscilloscope to check the pre cat lambda and possibly rule out rich running / duff lambda.

Hmmm After some research it seems the Lambda from MOT of .988 / .989 being less than 1 may indicate slightly rich running, leading to high CO. Or my Lambda could be "sluggish" i.e. not switching fast enough. Or my CAT could be burnt out. Anything could cause slightly rich running. Theres no other indication of rich ruunning - no black smoke on WOT and fuel consumption is very good I'd say. CATs and Lambas are expensive to just "try". :brickwall: A good service and italian tune may bring it just in line I suppose and thats the first thing I'll try. Anyone got any input? Cheers.

Bit of history: Standard VR6, runs well, no miss fires or other issues. No faults logged on VAG-COM. I promptly forgot about this for this year, of course the MOT tester this time wasn't prepared to fiddle around and try lots of times to get it through. So results: Fast Idle RPM: 2598 Pass CO: 0.571 Fail (max 0.3) HC: 39 Pass Lambda: 0.988 Pass 2nd Fast Idle Test RPM: 2616 Pass CO: 0.504 Fail (max 0.3) HC: 32 Pass Lambda: 0.989 Pass Natural Idle test RPM: 704 Pass CO: 0.429 Pass (max 0.5) I watched as he tested, and the CO fluctuated in and out of the PASS zone each time a test was run at constant RPM. On VAG-COM the Lamba value fluctuates between 0.9 and 1.1 at constant RPM. The idle speed also fluctuates slightly, I thought this was normal. First question - should Lambda flutuate at a constant RPM that much? Second question - How do I fix it? :lol: The MOT tester was ex-VW and seemed to think a change of oil and filter would make a difference, otherwise who knows because theres so much that will imapct it, so he wasn't much use (last oil change 2k miles ago).

Indeed, too much boils down to the car and the driver, meaning you cannot make a wide sweeping generalisation like "RWD is better than FWD". Many people would prefer to hoon around in a classic mini cooper over an M3, and likewise there will be many who prefer it the other way round.

hmmm toughie. When developing the Elan M100 Lotus kept saying the fastest car will be FWD, and look what they developed. A car that was so safe and quick it was boring - every review was stunned by its handling but lamented it for being too accomplished and it took the fun out of driving. A great technology showcase for sure but not a fun involving drivers car. A very quick point to point car for sure. When developing the Elise they went with rear drive and a transverse mid engine for cost and packging reasons. This car is more involving and fun to drive but point to point compared to an Elan M100 with the same power its no quicker. I'd say if what you are after is the fastest car then for sure FWD can give you it. It you want a fun involving, balanced driver's car then it has to be RWD. Good FWD cars like the Corrado and integra have good fun involving handling on the road, but on track I'd wager RWD is a more fun experience. 4WD (Evo, impreza etc) will beat both fwd and rwd round a track (assuming everything else is constant - power, weight) but which would strike the best balance of performance and fun? probably something RWD.

I'd add - don't use a pattern pump, only use a genuine one. I had 2 pattern pumps fail within a short space of time. Not much fun doing a job 3 times for the sake of £20.

The guy used a GTech to measure the performance. All his 0-60 times are EXACTLY the same. Theres no flow rate for the fan specified. Why am i even reading this........

http://www.lamborghiniregistry.com/LM00 ... ssein.html

When its missfiring, kill the enigne and pull the plugs that are missing immediatly. I've had a VR that oiled up its 1&6 plugs after a few k miles (I think due to bore wear) causing missfiring. You would see oil on the plugs and nasty deposits in this case. My current VR had a dodgy injector which failed spraying too much fuel which meant the plug didnt fire. You would have a plug covered in fuel and smelling of petrol if this is ths case.

What is the usual margin? When my sis was buying a new 3dr corsa 1.2 breeze in May, list price was just shy of £10k. We managed to get the local dealer down to £8.5k cash in person. Then sis just rang round a few dealers and one not far off said he had one for £7.5k outright, no haggling. This is brand new, not pre reg or ex demo. Whats the deal there then? I thought we did ok getting 1.5k off but a 25% discount would leave a dealer with almost 0 margin if you believe the majority of them on pistonheads and here etc. I believe the dealer was still making a worthwhile profit so will continue to believe the smarmy (*applies only to the particular saleman I dealt with) salesmen are lying to me in future.

Do you have a link to the ebay item? Cheers.