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They have a longer wire....... Also they aren't used on any other VAG car so they don't sell as many. The fronts are used on lots of cars AFAIK.

If the missfire is still there after tha camsensor then check electricals - plugs / leads / coilpack - just because they are recent doesn't mean they haven't failed, especially if you got cheap ones from GSF or ECP. Also get a VAGCOM wire off ebay (you will need one with the 2x2 adapter) and do your own fault code scans in future saving you a few quid!

Soaked with what? Oil or petrol? Does the same one get soaked even if you move them round and swap leads etc? If its petrol on the plug then you need to whip it out quick before the petrol evaporates to see if its still there. Why do you say defo not an injector?

lol, first ribbing from the CF for buying a TT! But what else is there in the VAG stable thats as quick as Corrado VR6, full complement of airbags and decent NCAP score, sub 90k miles and under £5k? Leon cupra Rs are just clipping into that price range but they have too many doors and most are 110k+

If you need some good injectors to try, I'm nowing giving my spares away for free if you cover postage, see link in sig.

Sounds like a stuck open thermostat. I know more modern cars will run slightly rich to get the catalytic converter warmed up when the engine is below operating temp (90). Not sure if the Corrado VR6 does. If this is the case then changing out your thermostat will give better MPG.

Same with the TT! The cambelt is on my list for next weekend! I remember doing the belt on my old Mk2 8v Golf GTI, there was acres of space round that!

Think again. I've gone from a Corrado VR6 to Audi TT coupe 225. Now its quicker and more comfortable than the Corrado, but the engine bay is unbelievably tight. I had to change the thermostat by finger tip with a glimmer of torch light. No job on the C was ever so fiddly. Theres a million pipes in the engine bay, from air con to air injection. Changing the oil involved removing the stupid undertray with a million screws. The oil filter had to be squeezed past a bunch of pipes. The fuel filter? Another "undertray" and weird plastic fittings. Its a miracle of packaging, but not as nice to work on as a C :?

You need the plug lead (maybe a plastic one clipped to your bonnet stay or with the spare wheel?) to pull the leads off without damaging them. No special tool, just the right size spark plug socket and an extension to reach them.

GSF leads are rubbish - get OE Leads from http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_electrical.php First off pull your plugs to see which cylinder is missing, the duff one will be obvious. You may have a plug (1 or 6) fouled up with oil (common due to VR bore wear at this mileage or stem seals) either wet with oil or manky and covered in black lump. If this is the case, put a new plug in and try a thicker oil. They can go for many more miles before further problems. A plug may be wet with petrol (sniff it) in which case swap the plug lead to this with another and see if the missfire follows the plug lead. If so get new leads. If the missfire doesn't follow, you may have a faulty (stuck open) injector. I had this issue on a 110k 1992 dizzy VR6, an injector was stuck open flooding the cylinder with petrol dousing any spark - swapping the injecter for a known good one fixed the issue. I have some for sale viewtopic.php?f=13&t=76892 Won't hurt to get a compression tester and do a quick compression test to see the health of the engine. Er get that MAF pin cleaned up, the car should stall if you pull the MAF plug whilst its running (not recommended to do this) If it doesn't then the idle will need adjusting and the car will prob have trouble at emmissions test time.

Is there a collar that goes down the middle of the bush on 4 cylinder cars? People soemtimes forget them when re-fitting. You should notice some movement tho if thats missing.

This feed helps the engine warm up quicker in low temps. The feed is shut off when the temps rise by a flap in the airbox.

I noted that down wrong, £8.50 was for the little boots and bolts, the caliper seals were more.

Its the same, except for the large amount of dish! Whenever that wheel is posted, it makes me shudder. VR6 leather wheel has to be the best corrado wheel!

Um I think he means alternative VAG wheels. Late Mk2 wheels (large splines), MK3 golf wheels (non airbag), obviously any corrado wheel. Top of the pile anf the only worth swapping to is the leather Corrado VR6 steering wheel. Early Mk3 Golf wheels are the same but not leather.

Get it fixed :) All of that is dead easy to do. All easily bolt on parts from GSFcarparts.com. Just get your mate to help with the brake line (as it says "hose" it might be just the flexy hose that has corrdoed ends, so even easier than changing a hard brake line). You could have all that done in a day / weekend at the most and £200 in parts max. Post a "wanted" ad in the classifieds here, I bet you get offered a few X-members very cheap. Use parcel2go.com to pick it up if its a long way away - £8.

Breaking it is probably a heck of a lot more effort than fixing it yourself? List the failures? £200 for a crossmember fitted is steep, can't see it being for than £50 used for a 16v (no demand unlike VR6 ones to go in Mk2s) and 2 hours to fit yourself. Breaking it might net you more money than selling it as a failure, but what price do you put on your time!

Its basic and operated by the ABS. You'd only notice it pulling away from a standstill if you had one wheel on gravel and one on the tarmac. The ABS brakes the wheel spinning on gravel to send power to the wheel on tarmac.

Usual clutch maybe on its way out (see if it slips under hard acceleration). If thats being changed then its a good time to change the timing chains. If you hear a rattle from the gearbox end of the engine then the timing tensioner may have worn down to the rivits. It may go on for a loooong tiome but could break up at any time so think about changing it. At 125k and this age then rear beam bushes and front wishbone bushes will be well past it, engine mounts etc - if you can rock the engine by hand it will need at least a front mount. Listen for a clunk on/off power that may be the offside inner cv (they dry out and wear due to proximity of exhaust at this mileage). Broken sunroofs and heater controls are common. Other than that its usual used car stuff! Bear in mind the Storm is just a late model with leather. Most people prefer the recaro interior which also comes in leather. Don't pay too much!

Yes this is a pet hate of mine too. Whena range rover sport comes storming up behind and then sits on your bumper, you unable to see anything at all. Its crazy that theres no decent regulation of the height at which lights are mounted considering many cars sit lower.

OOOH don't change direction with the blower on more than 1 or 2!!!!!! After owning a few a VR6s I'ver learnt NEVER to do that. The pins the flaps turn on aren't terribly strong, and going against a force 4 may cause the flaps to break away. To fix you need to take the dash out to get access to the heater box and thats not fun. Yes its happened to me. Remember, only change direction when the blower is off!!!

For what its worth I think thats a valid point, however a jury may not accept this. Many people in this world will see a home modification like this as inherently "dodgy" and will not see the value in the modification. The same could be said about uprated headlight looms - many aren't waterproofed properly and use components not designed for the harsh engine bay environment - it could fail causing an accident, however the effect here is of a failed bulb - an accepted risk. Being blinded by non-approved lighting is not a risk most people would be prepared accept. I know youa re not blinding anyone, but if something was to happen, that conclusion could possibly be drawn. All IMO.

Only by a very small amount. I'd be very surprised if the tolerances on parts like rear beams, bushes and front suspension components are made to such a small tolerance. I'd stick it in the middle of its adjustment and then get the alignment set up by a trusted place (not just any tyre monkey).

This is all correct, I agree with what they are saying, HID light output as you know is very different to halogen. The lens/reflector design are different and the requirement for self levelling and washing is important - why would they stipulate this if it wasn't? They dont just make these things up for fun. -------------- Regarding enforcement - they may not be picked up on your car. Until you have an accident in which someone gets seriously injured and the investigation concludes you dazzling them was a contributory factor. How would you feel about HIDs then? It is a possibility, and becuase you have done the modification yourself and knew it was not legal you would not have a leg to stand on. An uprated loom and decent bulbs are plenty. If you want HID then a newer car with them designed and fitted properly is the correct way forwards. IMO.

Call customer services on 0800 699888 hopefully they help bring a resolution.