was8v

If you could supply a few to the forum I'd be interested in some sealed realy boxes?

Vws of this generation are plagued by this. The design of top mount means that even with new parts you can get play in the top mounts with the wheels off the ground. They should test with the wheels on the ground. Good luck trying to explain that to an MOT tester who is always right. That said your top mounts may be worn so replacement might not be a bad idea!

The only ones worth buying for anything other than visual deterrent are discloks. Even so they can be defeated in a couple of minutes if the theif knows the particular weaknesses. No matter what you do, if someone wants to steal your car they will have it eventually, a steering lock may just make a joyrider move onto the next car.

Boot light works off the boot catch not this plunger afaik.

o

With figures like that I'd be tempted to drop another engine in, a known good 2.9 engine or low mileage late 2.8 (theres been lots on here recently and ebay going VERY cheap, like under £350). Thats the easiest and probably cheapest thing to do. If you take the head off you are into paying £££ for at least a head refurb and possibly bottom end rebuild. I would say thats not viable given the prices engines have been going for. If you are going to keep the car forever or are going for a supercharger upgrade at some stage then it may be worth rebuilding what you have so its known good. You can always whip the head off to inspect the bores and keep your eyes open for an already rebuilt head going cheap?

Thats my car :grin: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=70361&st=0&sk=t&sd=a The tracking is fine now, I think its had a replacement bottom end so no HG issues but it still drips a tiny amount of oil :lol:

I had a "catching" noise every revolution from my front offside wheel that turned into more of a "grinding" noise. Drove me mad trying to find out what it was. Eventually tracked it down to the ABS ring catching the tip of the sensor slightly in one place every revolution. Cleaned up the corrosion on it as best I could and very slight delicate adjustment with a hammer and it is fine. Could be a similar thing esp as you are having ABS issues? (my abs itself was always fine) The only time my ABS has gone mental is when the rear ABS cages came loose off the discs.

The Bentley manual states when new the compression should read 11-13 bar (159.5 - 188.5 PSI) and the wear limit is 7.5 bar (108.8 PSI ) with engine at 30 degrees(F?) So your cylinders are all down but not down to the wear limit. Did you do the test with the engine hot or cold? With it cold I'd expect them to be down a bit on the above figures. Cyl 5 is VERY worrying though! Unless something is wrong with your procedure it sounds like the head needs to come off. Normally a wet compression test will help determine if the head or block is the likely culprit.

From another thread: I had to remove the airbox to see mine.

What i'd do is: Get the mate to give you a reciept, do a cheap HPI check to make sure its not recorded stolen, then pick it up. Before spending any cash apply for the V5. If it make you feel better stick a cheap private plate on it and it will never be recognised. The guy clearly doesnt want it, the V5 application thing is an official way of dealing with abandoned cars.

Fantastic! mines missing both bits too, the pressure plate and rubber plug. 535 827 769 Pressure plate Which rubber plug do I need 16A or (16A) ???? N 905 814 01 or 535 857 145 ??? Will get onto the stealers today!

Check your engine code on the block - you need to remove the airbox to see it and may need to clean it up with sandpaper to read. It could be that you have a replacement late AAA 2.8 bottom end. Not uncommon as the 2.9 suffers from bore wear due to poor cooling on the outer cylinders and the easiest fix is to whack a common 2.8 one on. If this is the case it won't be down on power much at all as its not the capacity that makes the biggest difference its the throttle body and intake configuration IIRC - AAA is 2792cc and ABV 2861cc. A good AAA will prob make more power than the old smoky ABV anyway! If it says ABV then its the 2.9 original but someone may have cracked the filter housing and used a replacement off a late AAA engine.

Corrados didnt get a full width raintray cover. You need to check the seal on your heater vent thing in the rain tray (nr the ecu). Remove it and reseal with silicon or buy a new seal. Other cuases of water in footwells are door membranes (behind door cards), crap replacement windscreen fitters and blocked sunroof drains.

I've looked to replace my VR6 with one. 944 S2, essentially a 968 for half the money, a little down on power as it doesn't have the variocam head. A class above VWs - parts are more expensive and better made. This means they will last longer, but if you buy a worn one then obviously you have to foot the bill. The advantage of a VR6 is that parts are shared across lots of VWs so are very cheap, and everyone knows how to work on them. A 944 S2 has lots of unique parts and they sold in lower numbers than VWs. Handle better than a VR, don't feel much different acceleration wise. More of an occasion to drive. "Poor ma's Porsche" image fading now and they are considered more of a classic. Main unique expensive issues are: Rusty sills and wing (some are really bad) Cam chain (between camshafts) needs checking regulary and replacing before the cogs on the camshafts wear Brake calipers are alloy with steel plates so they corrode and lift causing sticking brakes Clutch has rubber parts that will be perished by now and cause judder (clutch is harder to change than VW) Get one thats has allt he above kept on top of and you should avoid the big bills

The kit came with an adapter to stick in the end so some ducting can be attached just like a CDA. I'm going to try that, and mount the DIA on a bracket hanging off the tensioner mount like people do with CDAs so it is not vibrating on the bodywork (currently temp held in place with zip-ties). Does look shiny in that pic! :grin:

Good work - I hope you like the car once you've done all this! It will be like a new one and you'll have to keep it forever!

Standard brakes were fine (I have plenty of mechanical sympathy and drove within their limitations) & I stuck to 20 mins on (inc cool down lap) 20 mins off. I'm not one of those who cane the car on track and come off with the brakes smoking - this is my only car :wink: so i've got to look after it. Would be nice to have a dedicated track car you could go all out with like some do. Druids was mega slippy - I had a few high speed sideways moments :D

Lucas = Girling = Bendix Same company - they just branded different things at different times. I wouldn't worry if the calipers otherwise look the same, your car must have had a replacement at some time.

Do it! its the only place you can really enjoy the handling - really good fun once you have learnt the track. Oulton park is a fantastic place as it has superb visibility and good run offs if you get it wrong, so little chance of bending metal. Last friday cost £89 with http://www.easytrack.co.uk plus half a tank of optimax (£40?) plus I got £30 instruction, and a bargain £25 motorbike helmet - mine a Nitro N750vx from Ghost bikes worth buying if you are going to do it more than once. Any road tyre will end up looking melted like that, especially if it newish after an afternoon on track (Goodyears especially!). I really like the Kumhos (ecsta spt ku31), rate them better all round than the falkens and yoko a509 i have had on before. They seem to have the edge over toyo T1S as a road tyre as they last longer for similar bargain price. You can really feel the changes tyres go through on track. First lap they are warming up, then they get really grippy. If you stay out too long in a session you can feel them go a bit squishy - time to come in and let everything cool.

Check all the ABS related fuses and relays then try again? On a VR6 some are up behind the glove box. Also before you start the car put your foot on the brake. Now turn the ignition - ABS light will come on, you should feel a pulse through the pedal and the light should go out. If the light doesn't come on someone may have disconnected it to get the car through an MOT - check the connection. If you don't feel a pulse on the pedal then something is amiss with the pump or ecu. As said, a fault code scan (using vag com or simialr) should bring it up providing the ECU (in the passenger footwell behind the left panel) has power. Sometimes the ECU can get wet / bad connections so check them too.

Oooh its B reg! I'm a sucker for the really early ones! Pull the big bumper off and get it right with an original small bumper! Does it have the red/grey big stripe interior (love it). It will be an 8v on KJet then on a B plate! Check carefully for rust before you commit to it!

Yeah I saw one ont he road for the first time the other day, look like a squashed frog. This one is growing on me though.

Looks like it probably has an upgraded turbo and injectors rather than just a remap as posted! Hopefully some kind of LSD too to get that power down.

is it a GTI? if so its defo worth dragging home! The lack of keys isn't much of an issue, they are hardly secure. Just apply for the V5 with the dvla as its an abandoned vehicle if you dont get the docs.