was8v

Do they look like these: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=67384

The wheels in question:

Lol, some good replies! However despite being nice lightweight alloys and nearly new they will go to the scrap man for the £12-£15 i'll get for them. Thats if some pikey hasn't nicked them out of my yard by the time I get round to it.

Supposed to stop rainwater collecting in the channel. They dont work, as you probably know, still get dripped on with the window open and when getting in after rain. I haven't had any annoying noises after removal on either of my corrados.

I have a pair of mint team dynamics 15" alloys that noboady wants. I'm loathe to weigh them in as they must be useful for something..... They are 5x100 but would need spigot rings to fit my car. I had thought about mounting some tyres on them and using as track wheels, but I don't go on track often enough to justify the cost of a seperate set of tyres, plus there is only 2 of them.... Any ideas? any novel uses?!

Well I finally got together to buy the BMC DIA induction kit. This is the same as a BMC CDA but with a plastic housing instead of the carbon housing = no performance difference. I got the BMC DIA 85-150 new from italian ebay. its missing the unecessary cold air hose though. The short length of 80mm ID silicone required to conenct to the VR6 MAF was from an ebay HK seller. Will update again when I've fashioned a bracket to hang it off the belt tensioner bolt.

Just trim the rubber part off the plastic with a sharp stanley knife. Makes it look miles better and cheaper and easier than replacing unless you are going concours.

ouch, you can get a draper gauge for well less than that and spend 30 mins doing it yourself! If you can change a sparkplug you can do a compression test!

Bear in mind the door cards are a "wet" area so make sure all connections are waterproof, you don't want to have to do it twice.

Not when its under pressure in your cooling system. Because its a sealed system, under pressure the water can go much higher (My VR has hit 120deg+ on track with no loss of coolant etc). Think of camping stove gas being a liquid in a gas bottle at room temperature cos its under pressure, normally at room temp its a gas. The pressure is controlled by the temp (fans and radiator keep that down) and if the pressure gets too high (i.e. the temp is uncontrlled - fan failure or blockage) the header tank cap has a valve in that will release excess pressure (you experienced this). I'd whip your thermostat off and put it in a pan of water. It should pop open before the water boils. Whilst its off use a hose to flush all the water system out of every orifice pf the radiator and block. Straight water is fine to use as coolant for short periods. All coolant does is add corrosion resistance and reduces the freezing point of the water. It does raise the SHC of the water a little, but not drastically.

Thats about normal for a VR, both VRs i've had run to that sitting in traffic. Use VAG COM to check the real temperature, you'll find its really a bit lower than that, the gauge isnt very accurate.

I have early door cards in a late car. The previous owner did some "creative" wiring to get the early mirror and window switches working with the late loom. You will need switches and their plugs from an early car and scour the bentley manual for pin numbers to match up. Even now my left mirror moves when the switch is on right and vice versa. I keep forgetting to document the wiring, will od next time my door cards come off (not anytime soon!). I'd do as recommended above - get late cards. The handles and mirror switches are nicer than early ones anyway.

Yeah must be, pity you told them the car was lowered.

i did exactly the same haha, tried for ages to get it back in but couldn't...mines been left for a good few months now but to be honest but i never actually use them so the rubber grommit in the hole idea could be the answer for me This is the most frustrating thing I have ever done. I got it on after about 3 hours and then the little plastic thing it connects to went and snapped. So i gave up.

Normal at most places to replace the wishbone whole, the labour cost of pressing bushes out (plus the likelehood this will go wrong on old bushes) clean it wup and press in the new bush is often more than the cost of a wishbone complete with fitted bushes. Corrado VR6's (and the Mk3 golf GTIs/VR6 that use the same wishbones) DON'T use a sleeve in the front bushes. All Mk2 Golfs (and probably 4 stud corrados) DO use a sleeve in the bush. I checkled various parts diagrams when I did mine - theres no room for a sleeve anyway - the bolt is a good fit ion the metal centre of the bush. Hope that clears it up.

AFAIK VR6s dont use a sleeve (Mine didn't need one anyway). i think MK2 golfs do and possibly early corrados.

Quick take em back, should get your money back! A year for genuine ones :shock: I'd expect them to last a LOT longer than that! Maybe look into getting the TT bushes instead?

Mine was similar with worn wishbone bushes. (although obviously the brakes moved with the wheel). Check those bolts ASAP! Were they genuine wishbone bushes or cheapo? I've heard of cheapo ones failing in a short period of time.

Yeah, I bashed 7 shades out of mine with a lump hammer and drift being veruy careful not to go near the edges/threads. It eventually came out, but the end of the shaft had "belled" out, I had cold-forged the end of it into a different shape so I couldn't get the nut back on on re-assembly. Had to tickle it with the grinder and use a thread file to get it back on. The moral of the story is to use a puller if its not moving after a few taps.

ABS just plugs into sensor on hub knuckle. Just unplug. If your driveshaft has never been removed before, VW put some kind of uber powerful loctite on the splines so you may need a puller to get the hub off the driveshaft. Dont bash it with a lump hammer and drift as it can distort the end.

My red tint has now faded and I'm back to normal bulbs. Anyone want to buy some green ones for £2.50 posted?

Yeah its a good excuse to fit new rear axle bushes (which is a whole other world of pain). If you drop the axle you will prob need another bias valve anyway as they are always almost impossible to disconnect. Depends - if you just want it fixed then cut and join, but if your axle bushes and brake pipes need doing anyway then do it all in one job. Theres nothing wrong with cutting and joining, its how aftermarket exhausts are fitted and how VW would do if they were to fit the exhaust.

I use a sparkplug socket with a spanner on the top, and a sawn off allen key down the middle with a small socket and ratchet on the top of it.

Easiest thing to do is get the oil pressure checked. Sounds like some of your wiring is in a mess but get the pressure checked as your oil pump may on the way out or you may have a blocked oil way. Once thats ruled out is prob the pressure switch, but could be the wiring or maybe the circuit in the clocks that gives the warning.

They can go internally. I had a slave go and occasionally the pedal would not return. No loss of fluid.