Mike Edwards

:roll:

Front bumper.

I'm guessing you have the ones for a 4-cylinder car though?

Look huge, but still fit under 16" rims.... :D Bit of rust due to rain showers :roll: I can now get the ABS to kick in on dry tarmac without having to stamp on the brakes - just by increasing the pedal pressure

The bolts on the VR6 are smaller diameter giving you the option to adjust the camber.

Oddly, all the bits that are VR6=specific on the rear axle of the C are also used on other models.... :?

40bhp?

I believe I said that the heretic should be burned at the stake. Good avatar btw....

The front of the C can have both tracking and camber adjusted. If you put new dampers on it at the same time as thew springs it is more likely than not that the front geometry is completely to pot. Get is 4-wheel alinment checked as soon aspossible. or you'll need to have the wheels rebalanced to deal with the uneven wear as well. btw, 120mm lower f*cks-up the handling as well as the ride...

Aaaahhhhhh!!!!!!! :shock:

Did you get the geometry checked after lowering it?

The cambelt tensioner on my 16v seized about 6 weeks after I bought it and melted the belt. ALthough it happened at low revs and I got the clutch in v. quick, the engine needed a complete rebuild of the top-end. New valves, guides, seals, gaskets, head-skim, head-bolts and 12 hours labour came to the thick end of £1k. Unless you're looking for an excuse to rebuild/modify the engine, it isn't worth the risk.

Better yet, fit the handle and latch from an early '90s Passat...

Yes to the 1st question. Don't know to the second question. Yes to the 3rd question, but be aware that the bits that wear (the guides for the water guide plate) and the bits that break (everything in front of the water guide plate) are basically the same...

Well, the bits of the tracks that the rear-most parts slide in are now easy to access with the roof in. Maybe with the front elements sliding smoothly, the lack of lube on the rear-most parts tipped it over the edge...

Seconded. Open the tailgate, pull off the trim at the back of the headlining, loosen the a, b and c-pillar trims, disengage the 2 tabs at the rear of the headlining and slide it out. Roof mechanism then just unbolts.

White grease should be fine - which bits did you lube though???

Umm.. I paid GPC £60 for a pair at Inters...

If it's in Germany, Niko may know...

BURN THE HERETIC!!!! :x :D

If it's a "cheap" VR6, start by replacing all the bits that will be knackered by now, before you start putting go-faster bits on it. So: Brake pads (Pagid fast road), disks (vw) and hoses (VW or braided); Dampers (Koni t/a), top-mounts and bumpstops (genuine - available from several sources)); Suspension bushes (VW); engine and gearbox mounts (genuine - available from several sources). Then think about good quality tyres for whatever suze wheels you have (or are planning to fit) and a Magnex or Miltek exhaust. H&R spings might be a good idea while you're doing the dampers and top-mounts/bumpstops - going lower might look better, but will destroy both the ride and the handling. HTH.

It doesn't have a cable operated clutch - it's hydralic...

Ahh - that might be why it seems a little down on power - you've hammered the exhaust flat...

Kent GF1602R cams - less than £200 for the set when I got mine a couple of years ago. The 154bhp (@6300rpm) figure was at Stealth. Torque was 129lbft@5800rpm.

Some of us have over 150bhp from our 1.8 16v Corrado's without WUR mods or panel filters... :D