Mike Edwards
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Content Count
1,226 -
Joined
Everything posted by Mike Edwards
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I've noticed that the indicated temperature drops the older the senders get. 90 is about right for a new sender.
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The helper springare always fully compressed whithe weight of the car on the suspension. It they were acting as bumpstops, that whould make them a solid metal stop - which would be "interesting". They apparently keep the main spring under compression when the suspension extends, although this begs the question of why not use a longer spring???
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If the engine in the VR6 when pop, I'd be looking at a 24v transplant. Particularly if I could get hold of an R32 engine...
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In answer to the question re: coilovers - No. Only needed with seperate springs/dampers. Henny, I hope you were kidding about the role of helper springs...
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Steve - I think you may be a little "off-message" with that comment... :shock:
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Well, the bolt-holes all line up, and the aperture is the same size/shape, but the glass panel has a different profile.
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Well, my G60 appears to have the original... However, to remove and refit an original VR6 exhaust means dropping the rear axle of the car(s) concerned.
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Why would you remove the bumper in order to fit this drive belt?
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Only undo the 2 big bolts on each side - the smaller one that sits between the 2 bid ones is more than capable of holding the engine up - only don't drive the car in this state.
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Can you fit Seat Cupra R Brembos and 330mm discs to a VR6???
Mike Edwards replied to biggerbigben's topic in Engine Bay
Think you need spacers of the same size as those to fit 312mm Mk4 Golf/Audi TT brakes. -
Actually, you can change the alignment and camber of the rear wheels - but is requires a shim kit from VW to do it. Fits between the trailing arm and the stub axle in case you're wondering.
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You have a beard???
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The 1st one is the one you want.
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Doesn't get the old fluid and air bubbles out of the caliper though...
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Yes, they are the same, but you may also find that the top-mounts need doing when you take things apart. Disintegrating rear bumpstops tends to mean the dampers are shot btw...
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Yes - pedal position sensor. WHen a wheel sensor goes the light is always on - no coming on after a few minutes. That said, as they cost more than £50, get the fault codes read 1st.
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Big valve gas-flowed head, gas-flowed throttlebody and exhaust manifold, cams to suit, LSD. All the above assuming that the rest of the engine and transmission are in perfect condition, the suspension is as you like it and the brakes are sorted.
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In the meantime, Vanish carpet and upholstery mousse applied with a cotton terry cloth works wonders on carpets, seats and headlinings...
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Fulda Extremo's give very good grip and wear, but maybe not the best ride.
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16v engines and timing chains??? errmmm.... :roll:
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Yep - replace the cable...
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Crankshaft position sensor. Won't start without a working one...
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More likely the speed sensor if it works on the switch. This is somewhere behind the dash and I have yet to have to find out where...
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DB Cartrim will recover your existing seats (including the rear hump) for ~£750. The only ones I've seen for sale recently have been tired and overpriced (~£800).
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Mine did this - starting at ~1am on a Monday morning a few weeks ago. An hour spent disconnecting each sensor in turn until it stopped showed a problem with one of the ultrasonics. Replacement fixed it, but leaving the ultrasonics disconnected meant it didn't keep going off.