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Mike Edwards

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Everything posted by Mike Edwards

  1. try disconnecting the MAF at idle. If there is no change in rpm, that's not good. Go for a drive and see if it feels any different. If it feels worse than when the MAF is connected, there's a different problem. If it feels exactly the same though...
  2. If it tilts okay, but catches on the underside of the roof when trying to close it from the silde position, you need to replace Part No. 1h0 898 019 "water Guide Plate". If that still doesn't work, I'm afraid the roof frame itself is donald-ducked...
  3. You'll reget selling that R6 - unless you have something to replace it with...
  4. The garage I use had the correct one in stock for my car - just. They apparently come in a range of sizes.
  5. So you weren't bidding on various steering components? I stand corrected. As for the cables, you may find that "adjusting" the position of the levers on the air distribution housing sorts your problem.
  6. The extra front camber might sort the "tramlining" if a 4-cylinder C running 17" wheels. Steve, how did you mange to reset it - the bolts don't allow fro a lot of adjustment on the 4-cylinder models? Kev, VW do shims to adjust both rear toe and camber - I have one on one side of the VR6...
  7. No - Jedi has a number of other "issues" with his C...
  8. If you're talking about Brembo's - yes. Otherwise - no.
  9. Pagids on VW or GSF disks do create a lot of dust but are confidence inspiring. Greenstuff do give less dust, but can give you pause for thought (OH SHIIIIIIIT!!!!!) under some conditions...
  10. Coilovers tend to come with harder springs than lowering kits. H&R coilovers for example have springs that are half as stiff again as those of the H&R lowering kit. One other thing - front coilovers tend to weight quite a bit less than the standard spring/damper combination (especially ones fitted with lowering springs...) and this does seem to result in slightly quicker turn in.
  11. With the front hoses, just use Mk3 items.
  12. An alarm installer of my acquaintance recommends Sigma on reliability grounds.
  13. There's meant to be a (substantial) steel collar on the outside of the rubber bit. As I understand it, it's main effect is to reduce the writhing of the wheel in your hands under hard acceleration due to the different lengths of the driveshafts (don't ask me how - I don't know). That said, vibrations could be a damaged driveshaft - but I've cut the entire damper off mine and it doesn't do what you describe.
  14. It is possible to do it with the dash in, but lots of swearing is involved...
  15. It looks like the front suspension is bent in the pics...
  16. Thankyou dear - love the new outfit btw...
  17. You're 6'1"??? Jesus - how tall am I????
  18. My 16v Has a leather hasnbrake cover - but it is an H-reg car. Late 16v cars might be different.
  19. Gareth - changing the dampers shouldn't affect the ride height if everything else is left alone.
  20. Koni do dampers with adjustable damping (which sounds to be what you have) and coilovers with adjustable damping. The latter have adjustable lower spring platforms allowing you to alter the height of the car. Altering the height involves some swearing while using c-spanners to adjust the position of the spring platforms.
  21. What you want are a nice set of H&R coilovers... :D
  22. You need the hose from the new brakes as well as it uses a Banjo fitting at the caliper end rather than the screw-in of the original caliper.
  23. Mike Edwards

    Heater...

    The termal fuse on the resistor pack of the motor had blown. If you replacement fan has the connector panel with it, the problem is sorted. Once you've removed the underdash tray, all you need to do is unplug the fan, bend back the locking tab (plastic - points towards front of car) and rotate the fan to remove it - it's a bayonet type fitting.
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