Mike Edwards
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Content Count
1,226 -
Joined
Everything posted by Mike Edwards
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There are 4 really big bolts that go through the front cross member that hold it on. Don't drive the car with these removed as there will only be 2 small bolts holding the front of the engine up...
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That depends on what - if anything - has broken. The reflectors aren't available seperately, but the adjusters are.
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Any Mk3 rear caliper will fit - but might not be in much better shape than what you've got.
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It clips on to the adjusters. It is possible that these have bust though... :(
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Trust me - those top mounts aren't really worn... :shock:
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Dot 4
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If the grill is already off, push the radiator ducting back* and you'll be able to reach the release levers. *Can be assisted by judicious slackening of hex-head mounting bolts on front of radiator...
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The cam and manifold are doing most of what flusted has got. My 16v only has reground cams (Kent GF1602R) costing less than £200 2 years ago.
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Yup - seconded. You "may" prefer to use shortened standard bumpstops than the koni items - try them and see. under no circumstances use the standard items AND the Koni items on the same shock as I've seen... :roll:
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12mm too long.
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Engine mounts???
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When refitting, you don't need to use anything - the bolts will do the job. If you're really keen though, bolt it all up and get the alignment right 1st. Mark were the bolts are in relation to the panel, then use bituminous mastic along the top of the inner wing. Then bolt the wing back on in your marked position.
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Must resist.... How much for the box as is as a matter of interest?
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Secondhand pumps are available... :D
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The part numbers for the springs tend to be common to several different models. Front springs for the KR, PG, 9A and 2E up to July 1994 are the same.
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Limber up 1st with a little light cussing, followed by a few carefully controlled bouts of profanity before starting. Having removed the door of the glovebox and all the retaining screws (top and bottom). take the underdash tray off. Then, having "limbered up" be prepared to push the body of the glovebox upwards while pulling down on the lower edge of the dash as you simulateously pull the glovebox out. Simple really...
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I bought one less than 3 months ago.
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Errmmm... How would this water in the roof joins be getting into the car???
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It's the caliper carrier so needless to say not a good idea to weaken it. More worrying though is any cracking that may have started in the alloy of the wheel it it's been catching. Better to fit some 3mm spacers behind the wheel to give clearance, or fit a set of 288mm items as the different carrier provides more clearance.
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Mk3 should be a straight swap. The biggest problem is likely to be getting the bolts that hold the calipers on undone.
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The 20' and 30' anre farctions of a degree as you say. 1/3rd and 1/2 a degree respectively (60' = 1 degree)
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Also, the temperature gauge progressively under-reads with age...
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Like John says. With the engine tipped back sufficient to take the mount out from between the cross-member and engine I've always found there was sufficient room either from above or below to remove it. But yes, take the airbox out.
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The rack on my VR6 has been in less than perfect condition for the last three and a half years/50k miles. Might not need to rush unless you really hate the way it feels. i rely shudunt be lgingnon after cuming back frum the pub..... :oops:
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Who was interested in the ones on my G60? Available shortly...