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Mike Edwards

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Everything posted by Mike Edwards

  1. Errmm... without wishing to rain on your parade (but good price for the Koni's - hope you enjoy them!), the helper springs are meant to be coil-bound with the weight of the car on them. Something is actually wrong if they aren't....
  2. Yet to try all these tweaks that Stealth do as well... :D
  3. No cat, higher revving and therefore easier to tune the nuts off without having hassle at MOT time...
  4. In this case, it might just be napalm...
  5. Rather a 1.8 16v than a 2.0 16v... (zips up flame suit...)
  6. Maybe I should take my remapped VR6 along to Stealth for the VWCCGB Rolling Road Day, rather than the G60? Then we can compare figures. Mind, my 16v on Stealth's rollers made 154bhp when it ought to be making 136bhp...
  7. Mine was making 196.4bhp and 190.5lbft before the remap. You can modify your VR6 to give more low-down torque - just fit a Golf inlet manifold. In the meantime, I plan to enjoy the way it now makes more torque from 3.5-5.75krpm than it used to make as a peak value... :D
  8. Didn't want to butcher the bonnet, plus the re-mapped ECU was an earlier type than the one on the blue VR6 and will not fit without changing the loom as well. So, too much hassle...
  9. The Moonlight Blue VR6 was treated to an AMD re-map today. Despite the "warm" conditions in the rolling road bay, the after figures came out at: 209.3BHP @ 5668RPM 205.3LBFT @ 4291RPM Woo-Hoo!!! :D
  10. Mike Edwards

    LHD 2 RHD

    Look for a RHD that's being broken for parts and buy the shell/dash/loom from that.
  11. If you're fitting these yourself, remeber to trim one segment out of the front and rear bumpstops or the ride will be somewhat firmer than you expected...
  12. That was how I bought it - I put standard springs back on it for Inters. Now planning to put my H&R coilovers to good use. Also have some new wheels planned....
  13. Have a look on the prevous page. They lower an early VR6 by about 25mm and a late VR6 by about 40mm.
  14. There are several repair kits. The ones you want are: Guide with cable - left (1h0 898 015a); Repair kit for water guide plate - left rear (1h0 898 019). Fiting them means taking the roof out.
  15. For those of you with access to ETKA, go and look at illustration number 295 (MG9, SG71). This shows were the loom for the tailgate plugs into the main loom for the rear of the car. There are 2 1-pin connectors and 2 2-pin connectors plus earth point eyelets. Threading them through the c-pillar has to be easier than either butchering your loom or trying to thread the other end of the loom through the tailgate.
  16. They've had about 80k miles of use. They were on one of my cars when I bought it.
  17. The the casting that attaches the cable to the mechanism on the left has broken. Replacement is the only answer. The reason the cable broke is that the lhs "water guide plate" (1h0 898 019) has worn/bent/broken. Both need to be replaced. HTH.
  18. Does it slide using the key? I not, there are a number of possible causes, identifying which one it is will save you money. The motors do also burn out when used with a malfunctioning roof.
  19. Check the relay supplying power to the ABS brain while you're there...
  20. I have a set for a VR6 lying around ion my garage. They don't look pretty, but they do work. £50 to collector, or +£lots for postage.
  21. The plugs in the tailgate itself come apart to form single contact connectors, but the ones in the c pillars are not exactly big and can be un-threaded. Cutting the wiring in the hope that you can make relaible joints at the point where the wires have to flex the most is dumb... In summary, disconnect the loom in the c-pillars, unbolt the hinges from the roof (NOT the hinges from the tailgate) and lift off. As it's F. heavy, make sure you havbe a couple of friends to help you out.
  22. Speaking as someone who managed 154.8bhp on Stealth's rolling road without them doing anything to it, I'd be very interested in what they do to tune a standard 1.8 up to 155bhp...
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