Mike Edwards

Andi, Unless the speedbumps in your area are 'himalayan' in size, it might be an idea to check the dampers... :) Rob, If the engine is hunting at idle, this is the Idle Stabilisation Valve (try rinsing it through with carb cleaner). If it vibrates/stutters there may be a problem with the coilpack as it sounds like one of the cylinders isn't firing consistently (and you've already changed the plugs and leads)

Forget the inlket manifold - it will just further reduce the amount of "go" at low to medium revs. Kent GF1602R cams on the other hand are worth every penny of the ~£200 they would cost. How does 154bhp/129lbft grab you? £500 is almost enough to have your seats retrimmed in leather... :D

One of my VRs needed a new fuel pump @120k miles. The other one is still going strong @160k miles. Anything that pump the pump under additional load will cause it to wear out sooner as you say (including running out of petrol, which I managed twice in the the 120k miles car). Sometimes they just wear out though.

Sorry yes, you're right. All ABS equipped cars have the 23mm master cylinder.

Cam timing is set relative to the crankshaft and is an entirely different animal to the ignition timing. Even VW get it wrong...

All Corrados come with the 22mm brake master cylinder.

One other thing to consider: Just because one wheel at a particular offset fits doesn't mean a different wheel of the same offset will also fit. The 16" Audi wheels on my MoonBlue VR6 are only 1mm off the standard offset, but need 3mm spacers to clear the calipers....

Very stable. They are a fairly mild set, so not that surprising. I imagine you'd have to try something a bit more radical to mess up the idle, or maybe you could get the same effect by going overboard on the gas-flowing and porting, leading to rough running at low engine speeds.

1. Fitting the larger diameter inlet will improve the top end, but at the expense of losing even more low and midrange. 2. Gasflowing and porting is worth doing, but costs~£500+ (unless you know someone who will do a good job for very little...) 3. Kent Cams will regrind your existing camshafts to GF1602R speck for less than £200 all in to give 15-20bhp extra and a lot more torque across the rev range. Needless to say I recommend going for No.3 and have had this done to my 16v. At the VWCCGB Rolling Road Day at Stealth Racing earlier this year it managed 155BHP (well, okay...154.8BHP...) Next to come is a K&N panel filter and some adjustment of the mixture to see if I can get it into G60 territory while keeping it driveable.

Chaps, If the little plastic cover that goes over the manual drive allen key thingy on the sunroof motor isn't covering said thingy the motor will not turn (and just makes clicking noises). Don't ask me why, but if you want the motor to do the hard work for you, rotate the cover so that it hides the thingy. :) I might be smiling, but I'm not joking...

Fit 2 driver's side arms and wipers to solve the problem with fouling on the seal and bonnet.

On the VR6 it's on the right.

If the coolant tank cap is crewed on tightly, one thing to consider might be that you have a problem with the cylinderhead gasket. This can be checked by testing the coolant for exhaust gases. Most gararges have the ability to do this. A more common failure point is the thermostat housing wich warps over time. parts aren't to bad for this though. Look for signs of coolant leaks down the front of the engine on the rhs (viewed from the front).

Interesting point. But if you ever make a claim against your insurance they will still be able to claim that you had an undeclared modification and were therefore not covered. If your lights are as bad as you describe, it might be an idea to check the state of the reflectors. Even if they're currently in good condition, they may not appreciate the additional heat of the higher wattage bulbs. As you can't buy them seperately any more, it's something to think about...

Which model/year C do you have? The early type front struts have a slotted (and threaded) bush that clamps the top-mount and top spring plate on to the damper shaft. The tool to undo this can be bought at Halfords. There is also a washer that goes under the top spring plate.

Congratulations on your plan to invalidate your insurance...

The bentley decribes a whole range of noises as 'normal' so I shouldn't worry unless you find the steering suddenly getting heavier even with the engine running. Mention it next time you take it for a service.

The noise you describe is your power steering pump complaining.

My local Vw Dealers have a Vento VR6 courtesy car that's on its original engine. According to the service manager the only thing they've have to replace was the thermostat housing. It has 320k miles on it...

H&R springs all the way. Eibach are too hard...

Impulse sender - 021 907 601 A. Would Tony be you Dad by any chance?

The Big Yin makes car-care products??? :shock: :)

Fit 5-stud rear disks (straight swap) and that's the rear sorted. At the front, fit the complete wheel bearing with mounting parts - although it may be possible to just fit the wheel hub (part numbers appear to be identical it's just that they seem to come in 4 and 5-stud varieties.

Yep. Your original roof panel will fit in a passat glass roof, but the interior trim won't. In the event that you find a Passat with a steel roof, the panels are identical

Describe the problem. "Slow" is too vague to offer any pointers... :)