Mike Edwards
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Content Count
1,226 -
Joined
Everything posted by Mike Edwards
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Yes - the bits are interchangeable (with the exception of a few items between the glass and steel roofs. From the sound of it you need a new cable on the passenger side
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LHS water guide plate is worn - but not enough to cause anything to snap. Motor may also be tired.
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Yes.
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The 'water guide plate' is the rear-most sliding thing in each track. Lack of lube will make them very stiff, and more prone to jamming. This might mean they work when out of the car, but jam to buggery when re-installed...
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As it says earlier in the thread, if it will open and close on the switch using the tilt function the cable is okay. If the problem is just with the slide function, the 'waterguide plate' - usually the left one - has worn to the point where it's jamming (which is what leads to snapped cables...)
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I think I've done it 5 or 6 times so far (not including rebuilding a glass roof)
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Right-ho - I'll shred this one then... :)
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I've just found the receipt for the engine rebuild I had done when I owned this car. If you're interested I can post
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The ones fitted to later cars taper to a smaller diameter at the top to give a more compliant ride and are longer as a result, but they will both need to be compressed quite a bit to fit. Hence, provided you have the correct spring top plate, either will work but the earlier ones will let the car sit about 15mm lower.
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See For Sale section shortly...
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Okay...
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I stopped using it as the daily driver 3 years ago*. Now, despite attempts to rekindle the flame (KW V1s, electric half-leather Recaros), I'm not using it except for the (very) occasional Corrado meet... *Supercharged Mini - 233 bhp and counting!
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...that is the question. :shock: And I'm not enjoying this particular internal debate at all... :sad:
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The pic shows the lower bush that gets compressed between the top plate and the body of the car - the side that goes against the top plate
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Which is why I used the standard top plates.
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I really should have taken some pics when I fitted the KW1s... This is the 6th suspension set-up on the VR6 (stock, Bilstein + springs, H&R lowering springs with the Bilsteins, H&R coilovers, Koni t/a plus the H&R springs, KW1s), both coilover setups needed the rear top plates. Favourite* set up would have been the H&R coilovers, with spring rates to match the H&R lowering springs... *Koni t/a coilovers for a Mk2 Golf on a G60 C were better though.
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yes.
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Most coilovers come with just a cone-shaped upper spring platform.
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You should still need the rear top plates. The lower of the 2 rubber bushes is meant to be compressed between the plate and the underside of the suspension tower. If it isn't. you might find the top of your coil-over hitting the underside of the suspension tower...
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Those are the ones.
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No, as there's no turning required. The pic shows the lower top mount. You will still need the top plate, as it clamps the lower top mount to the body.
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There are 2 bits of rubber (one between the shock top and the body, one between the body and the top-most fitting) that should be replaced, along with the top-plate of the standard suspension. The photo should make it obvious why it's a good idea to change the rubber bits. The top-plate tends to rust. HTH
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Although I have V1s on the VR6, I still think Koni t/a coilovers (from a Golf) are the best ride/handling compromise for a 4-cylinder C.
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Good answers - thank you one and all. Walesy, I recommend asking someone who has had previous experience of finding socks (such as Mrs Walesy). But - obviously - going into M&S and asking where they keep socks will also work... :)
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So - for the sake or discussion - if I want to know people's opinion on who's best, how will putting it here help??? For example: "I can do it for £xk (but expect to be very p*ssed off with the state it's in)" is less useful than: " did a really good good on mine." But I bow to your Omniscience...