Critical_Mass

Maaaan, im really sorry to hear this fella. It cant be easy to stand there helpless whilst it burns! :( Any news on the insurance front? Im getting a fire extinguisher!!!

Your mechanic should be able to check the fans. If you have a look under the fans in Dinkus' post it tells you when the fans should come on i think. If its doing anythigng different it could indicate a problem. As for the idle, yeah a few pulses as such you can feel through the seat. The revs on my VR sit around 500-600 rpm on idle but it does feel like it pulses every so often but the rev counter doesnt move. (ah just noticed you put the same above) yeah thats fine! :D One thing you could do if you've just bought it is, if you take all the engine plastics off at the top of the engine, next to the throttle body, you will see a metal cylindrical shaped piece that has a plug going into it and is held on by a piece of plastic wrapped round it - this is the Idle Stabiliser Valve (ISV), take it off and give it a clean with some carb cleaner. Even hold open the valve with a flat head screwdriver and spray in there. Just to get any muck out that could case lumpy idle.

VRs do run hot, but the water should sit at 90 and the oil at 90-104 as you say, that is a normal temp. Plugging vagcom (assuming he's using vagcom) in will be able to read the water temperature from the ECU which gets its reading from the blue temp sender on the front of the engine. The dash temp gauge reads from the yellow (new ones are black). So you can check them against each other to see if the dash gauge is reading correctly or not. Or if the reading in vagcom is way higher then it could be the blue temp sensor needs replacing. The yellow and blue sensors are cheapy cheap btw. But going by what you've stated as the temps they seem fine. If anything it sounds like theres an issue with the fans.

imo id spend that little bit more on the inox (stainless) ones. I hear too may stories about coilover spring seats seizing after only a short period of time.

Red rado spotted later eve on sunday going down Halton hill towards the train bridge, i did beep but you cant have heard - i was goign up the hill on the other side of the bus lane thingy. Another one - Green rado had early grille, going into killingbeck ASDA yesterday at about 4:40pm driven by a young lad.

Arent the rear axle bushes suppposed to have a little give in them though? Mine does the same, almost feels the back end is going to let go for a split second just as you go into a corner, but never does. Had my axle bushes looked at and was told they were fine.

Yeah i had to use a small drill bit but just moved the drill round the hole and was careful not to go mad with it.

New standard bump stops were tight to get onto the shocks, not loose at all. Im guess what you've got with the poly bump stop is as they should be. Though i used poly exhaust hangers and had to use a drill to get them to go onto the exhaust hangers. So maybe its a common thing with their products. Couldnt you just drill the hole larger IF they really are too hard to get on (queue the Toad now that ive just said that :lol: )

Well done mate!!! Yeah im the same, some tasks seem daunting but once you manage to start youre normally ok, OR if im not sure i always have a search on here.

Good man! Good to see someone just get stuck in :D Did you test the thermostat before you fitted it just in case?

Standard engine mounts? Uprated gearbox mounts increase whine. Whine on the overrun is normal anyway as the gears are "unloaded". When you accelerate again it should go silent? So long as it doesn't sound like there's sand in the oil, I wouldn't worry about it. VR6 gearboxes go well past 200K if looked after :D Standard engine mount fitted about 18k ago. Yeah goes silent when accelerating, its purely just on overrun. Well other then this slight whine the gear change is smooth, no other problems at all. Only maybe getting it into first very occasionally - but this is more the circlip as opposed to the gearbox - right? I can here a slight rattle from the clutch when its disengaged, but disappears when i dip the clutch. It had a new clutch at the same time at the mounts so i dunno if the bearing needs changing or anything.

I've got a spare you can have. I got a couple from Jon (Jon_vr6) off here. Send me your address and i'll post you it. It will need soldering in case you didnt know.

i like! 8) :norty: Would like to see them on a corrado.

Hmmm mine started to whine a bit on overrun, sounds like worn teeth by what you've said Kev. But then i cant remember if its always whined, its not loud you may not even notice it if you werent told it was there and like i say only does it on overrun. I was considering changing the oil as i dont think its ever been done, just to see if it improves it. Failing that how much is a gearbox rebuild/refurb? Sorry to thread jack.

I can totally agree with the Alfa GTV but the Fiat Coupe is dog ugly. The Z4 coupe i reckon is a bit of an acquired taste, but i do like it. I really do love the Audi A5! 8)

No, i never knew that! But thanks for informing me :lol: :salute:

Im going to learn something here - but who governs Isle of man if 'our' government doesnt?

Indeed... a sorry state of affairs. :( When will this situation improve.......WILL it ever improve? The government just seem to squeeze every penny they can get out. Road Tax going up and up, fuel tax... there's word the b*stards are going to put VAT on food goods. I understand that they need money to pay these damn debts the ones in control have got out country into. But why not start by not paying these damn spongers dole money and get them working!!! :mad2: Makes me so mad!!! Sorry :lol:

Here you go - http://www.power-tools-pro.co.uk/draper ... rrency=GBP

Yup, needs to be 2 drivers arms and a drivers blade and a passenger blade.

Funny you should mention that cos the netbook i was on didnt have the option either, but my other netbook does have it. I'll take a look later. jpowell - yours sounds like it has the OBDII 16 pin connection - i didnt think any corrados came with this connector. But if that is the case you need the same cable minus the 2x2 adaptor.

Prob with that though, the same or worse could happen. These cars are getting on a bit and many are well over 100k on the clock. To find one with a good shell is good, the engine will need rebuilding/replacing at some point in the future. But of course, the choice is yours.

Go to control panel > performance & maintence > system > device manager - a list of components will appear, look for com ports and click properties, then advanced. it may be set to 16, set it to 5 - this will help when trying to scan the ABS. To get the cable to work, i find its a bit hit and miss. Ive had to reboot, unplug the cable and plug it back in. Try rebooting the comp with the cable into port. Then run vagcom and go to options and choose port 3 and detect it.

No no maybe you wouldnt want to spend 2k on a new engine... i was just giving an informed opinion :D At least with a recon'd engine you have piece of mind and a warrenty to fall back on. Just my 2p :D If its still a bit smokey and still using oil. Then take the spark plugs out and check for oil on the plugs. Especially on cylinders 1 and 6. If there's oil its probably bore wear.

I've got experience with the Vege engines and i CAN recommend them. When i bought the engine (Jan 08) it was about £1900. By the way its on exchange basis so your knackered engine will have to go to them so they can recon it and sell it on. I think you can keep your old engine but the new one will cost more. So not worth selling the on the old one. It comes with no ancillaries. It does have a new oil pump though. Id give them a bell as they arent forced to have one in stock, when i ordered mine they only had 2 in stock and one had already been sold. So i got in touch just at the right time. My engine has now done about 18k and it doesnt use oil, not even the amount the handbook says it should use. You could get yours rebuilt, but it could end up costing you as much. With the Vege engine you know its been done right and it also has 1 year warrenty. Though to keep the warrenty valid you'll have to get a garage to sign the service book at the service intervals.