Critical_Mass

Looks great Andi, i love the new look. Though as above a banner would be v nice :D Also those damn adverts dont sit right on the page.

No worries mate, appreciate the help. That maybe it then, as the fans seem to work now ive replaced the yellow sensor, albeit with the brown. But the brown also has aux pump/fan run on. So obviously the dash doesnt work as the function isnt even present. :lol: Damn suppliers. :lol:

hmmm thats confused things even more as the one i removed was the one with 4 pins and i dont have climate control. The other 2 i have are the blue one (middle) and a black one (far right) both have 2 pins. Do you have the part number for your brown one tonedef. The one ive found using the search is 701 919 369 D and apparently replaced 701 919 369 B. But i dont know the part number of the one ive got - i will find out. How many of the 3 sensors has 4 pins on yours mate?

I dont have a multimeter unfortunately. Maybe it is a Passat one, though there's no darn part number on it. Will take a look on vag com and have a search on here. Though as ive just found out, the issue with the after run fans is still there - jsut moved the car literally 10 metres (engine cold) and the after run fan came on :lol:

Hello Sharpy, make yourself at home! :D

Its not that cold though, surely it would move a little. Seriously it didnt move a tad, not even slightly off the rest. I may plug VAGCOM in and what the reading is

Well just been and changed the yellow temp sender (which are now brown for the record). The fan now seems to work when engine is up to temp - dont recall it doing that for a while. The gauge no longer goes too high and the light no longer comes on. So the panic is king of over. However, that said, with the new sender the gauge hasnt moved off the bottom even after a run. So its gone from one extreme to the other. Tested the plug with a bulb and the gauge did work, just not when its plugged into the sender.... faulty sender i know suspect. So getting another one in to replace it. Though at least it seems the problem has been pinpointed. Can anyone confirm the correct part number for the sender (93 VR)? The sender we got was taken from my reg no. then in turn the chassis number, so it should be correct. I just want to rule out the wrong part number also the fact its brown - was expecting black. Cheers for the responses guys!! :D

Yeah im hoping its just the guage. Got one on order, off to pick it up soon and change it... take it from there. This is the last thing i need grrrr ...

Thansk for the replies guys. TBH i dont notice the fans coming on unless i switch the engine off..... which always appears to come on these days. Would this suggest the yellow temp sensor is fine and the rad one is buggered? I'll check the bottom hoses is hot to rule out the thermostat. Im getting hot air in the cab if thats any indication. ---------- Post added at 02:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:35 PM ---------- Right, been able to do a bit of checking. Left the car to cool down a little, then ran it up to temp the car went up to 110 but then i switched the car off and left it for a couple of mins. THen back on again. The temp (on the guage) had dropped to about 80 - so we can assume thats wrong. Running it back up to temp no fans came on and it went to 110 again. Took the cap off the reservoir and although hot it wasnt any hotter than it is when running at normal temp. Also im led to believer if the car over heats there will be steam as water pours out of the reservoir. No such thing happening. So is the gauge wrong or is it actually overheating - as at the mo it doesnt appear to be doing that. This could be why the fans arent coming on. ---------- Post added at 02:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:17 PM ---------- Oh and the thermostate must be working as the bottom hose is hot

Hi all, Good start to a monday morning - Got a couple miles away from work this morning (20 miles in total). Water temp light starts to flash and the water temp on the dash starts to rise. I ended up hitting traffic, which in a way was a good thing as it was stood for a while between creepign forward - i was able to turn the engine off and let the fans cool the engine down. There was also no steam - water was still full when i looked under bonnet. Though clearly there's an issue here. The only thing surely it could be is that the fans arent working - ive been having issues with the fans for a while, but mainly when the ignition was switched off. Can anyone confirm if this is the likely cause. Also which sensors control the fans? Cheers all.

Cheers for the explanation. Apparently Mclaren have a special "tongue" extension on the floor. I dont know exact details. Shame we dont have side of views of the other cars, would like to see how close they sit to the floor and the rake of them. ---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ---------- Thought people would interested in this. mp4-26 vs mp4-27 http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/17/24/47/89/compar11.jpg

What do the new reg state in regards to the nose?

Yup, but the Renault looks the best out of all the ugly cars - possibly due to colour ---------- Post added at 05:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:00 PM ---------- DudeVR6- Can you tell us what the purpose of the stepped noses are. Just need some light shining on it and wondering why Mclaren havent gdown this route.

Dont think you need vagcom to do the ECU reset. Never used it myself when doing an ECU reset. Just disconnect the battery for 10 mins. Then go for a 20 min drive using various speeds/revs.

Better off buying a new one mate... seriously. Even one with no leaks may need replacing again in a years time - assuming its an original rad.

Corrado spotted in Colton Leeds around 3pm. Saw you coming out of your driveway opposite the shops - seen your car parked in the driveway before. Dont think you saw me though i was heading down the A6120 towards crossgates and just got to the pelican crossing as you pulled out.

:D

plenty of snow here in Leeds. Started at about half 1 and its now covered.

Ive had it setup about a year mate. Not got any pics sorry. Not much to see only got a couple of clown fish, 3 humbug damsels, a regal damsel and a couple of soft corals. I know what you mean about your fish. Some will say they're only fish, but i know what you mean mate. Ive got a corner tank with the holes drilled which lead into the cabinet and into the sump, then back into the tank. If you choose to go marine with that tank, id def advise to put the effort in with getting a sump setup and a weir as in the long run it will be better. There has been times where ive thought, man its costing alot just to get some more salt or whatever, or suffering algae, but i dont regret going marine. Always wanted a marine tank since i was young. THough the cost of things means ive had to take it slowly. Ultimatereef is a real friendly place mate, where you do get answers. THere's a tropical section as well as a marine!

I used the 1inch wide and im glad i did. You'll need more than 13 meters i bought a 50 meter pack and used a good half of that inc cut offs and that was with the 1inch wide wrap - though i did do it whilst it was on the car. You're best off starting from the top, do each branch down to where they meet then start with a fresh cut down to the next junction. Bit of a tip, have a bucket of water to hand, dip the wrap in the water to wet it, then wrap around the manifold. It help stops the little fibres getting onto your skin and air - it doe irritate. Latex gloves too would be a good idea. It also helps keep the wrap tight as when it dries it will tighten a little.

That looks cracking mate! Any more close up level pics of the tank? My tank is getting there.. slowly. Still way off it being fully stocked. Needs more Clean up crew and corals. Good forum http://www.ultimatereef.net if interested

what width is that?

what width wrap are you using? You'll need to over lap by about half the width of the wrap. Also did you buy any of the metal cable ties as you will need them. They're expensive so i used some copper wire that i cut to length and twisted tight.

More common than you think. Mine does it and have never got to the bottom of it. Luckily doesnt do it very often.

i think the flush is to be used neat. Id personally go for a higher ratio of coolant/antifreeze maybe 60/40 coolant. Ive always topped up from the expansion and eventually got all the air out. But it maybe wise to fill the rad up then top the rest from the expansion tank. If its a VR there is a drain plug you can unscrew on the under side of the crack pipe (easier to see from under the car). The crack pipe is the long black plastic water pipe that runs along the front of the engine (under the front of the inlet manifold and above the oil filter) You'll need to run the engine with the cap off the reservoir, and massaging all the pipes even the ones going into bulk head for the heater matrix - important that you do this with the heaters on full in the car! Once it starts to boil over, turn the engine off and allow to cool down. You may have to top back up with water/coolant, you may also have to do this a few times. I know my VR took a while to get all the air out the system and hot air coming out of the dash vents. What engine is it out of interest max?