Critical_Mass

Bad sh!t mate. Again work mates seemed to save the car :D Is it just the HT lead thats destroyed or is there other wiring?

Platinum, thats the one, thanks Steve.

I've never bought them from VW, i was more suggesting getting them else where other then VW - maybe i didnt make that clear enough. But can get Mann air and oil filters for that amount. How much do VW charge. ---------- Post added at 10:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:40 AM ---------- oh and im told its the synta gold thats no longer available. They now use that diesel/petrol oil long life stuff.

Looks good mate. :D

Thats what i said ;) Maybe a tad unfair on dealers, but they are franchises so each are different.

Responded :D

Indeed ^ £250 for a small job, probably done badly or not as good as it could be. Wouldnt trust the dealers to work on my car personally.

Go to a private garage mate, they can still stamp your book and it still be valid, as well as it being cheaper. Are you able to do the service yourself? Gallon of oil £25 for synta gold - or equivalent. Oil filter - £5 air filter - spark plugs - not sure on price but not expensive. Will take no longer then half hour to change the oil filter and air filter.

Dave ive got one in the garage you can have mate. A bit off the flange has broken off, but im guessing it doesnt matter. Put me down for one ;-)

An hour to fit! By VW Im assuming sheesh! No problem mate, glad its sorted :D

I fitted a ECP rad a few months ago (mate who works there got it for £80). The only issue i found was that there's some metal tabs towards teh left side of the rad, top and bottom. These needed bending to get it to fit - not a big issue. Other then that it was fine.

:lol:

Check out here mate quick, get another coolant pipe http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56798-VW-Corrado-roof-bars-£50-DBP-shell-soon-to-be-sold-for-metal!

No idea regarding the engine mount before i took it off again everything was tight and no movement yet when idling and raising the clutch the engine was moving alot. seems better now - very odd. I know it had one of the wishbone bushes replaced during its mot. I assume the others were fine otherwise they'd have failed MOT too. The next step is to get both tie rods and ball joints changed. What about the jerky throttle? its horrible, you can feel it through the pedal. Id have said engine mounts but the front is weeks old and there's no movement on the rears? Whats the adjuster on the throttle body for exactly? is it just for when the cable stretches due to age, so you can adjust accordingly?

Such a shame. i too will miss his wit

Rights this is a bit of an odd one. Weeks ago i changed the front engine mount on the VR - i was getting clonking when changing front 1st to 2nd as well as jolting when coming off the throttle and even on sometimes. Fitted new one and expected the clonking and jolting to have gone. But no they're still there. Also when driving it feels like the front end is shaking, i first noticed it going down the motorway and first though the car was misfiring and was juddering due to it, but when i dropped the clutch and revved the engine, there was no misfiring. Even at lower speeds it feels as if there's slight shaking in the front end. So spoke to my mechanic and he checked front engine mount and there was still loads of movement in the engine, you could see it raising up, and he said the mount was moving way from the subframe. I got back under the car dismantled the engine mount and refitted. I checked for movement again by idling the car and engaging the clutch - its alot more solid now. So again thought that was the problem, but still the front of the car feels like its shaking slightly. I know the tie rods could do with changing and also one of the wishbone ball joints. But im not sure whaets causing this shaking feeling (albeit slight), but also the jolting coming on and off the throttle. I did adjust the throttle cable before changing the engine mount, could this cause the jolting on and off the throttle? Cheers

Just done a search as my memory is terrible. Its the pipe going from the bulk head to the engine and has a thin "T" pipe also going to the throttle body. Had mine split where the pipe bulges. Cost me £45 to replace. Still it will last for another 17 years :D - was only a thin split but water pished out of it.

Yeah do not drive it. Like i say try the tape, it may get you to the garage. But to be honest its just a pipe. Just buy one and replace. It'll be easy to replace.

RS4 nice choice, would like to own one at some point. But you'll be back! :D

Opposite towards the back? Thats the only water pipe connected there - Is the pipe split? if so you'll need to just replace the pipe. As a VERY temp fix you could go to somewhere like halfords and get some special tape for such applications - but ive used it on a small hole on one of the water pipes and it didnt work very well - so on a larger hole there's no chance.

Where round the back of the engine? there's a large diameter pipe connected to the back right of the engine block, just right of the ISV (assuming its a VR judging by your username). Anymore details would help fella? If its round the back right side of the engine it sounds like its just a water pipe - just replace. But more info would be good :D

;-) Ive got fuse box clips but would be interested in these just in case. But yeah pics would be good! ---------- Post added at 08:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:33 PM ---------- responded too late there :lol:

Chin up mate. Its happened to us all. i know how you feel when one thing after another breaks - ive considered selling a few times. But if you sell up and get another you dont know what problems that one will have. At least with this one you've spent money on it and you're getting the problems sorted on it. Just keep at it fella :D

........ did you fall asleep half way through that post :lol:

Any pics of the interior?