Critical_Mass

Ah im behind the times then mate haha. THough the RSs are still v popular

Jim isnt winding you up haha. though i think they do need to have a certain relay number...

I thought BBS RS were the scene wheels?

Cheers Matt :D THey do look a little big, but they do work.. come on how can you say that, they arent a million miles off BBS RCs. Didnt realise they were a scene wheel, cant say ive scene them before (sorry), but seriously i havent.

v nice! Love those wheels, any ideas what they are? I want!!!

and if you watch in the mirror, when you get to 45 mph the rear spoiler goes up ;)

Heated mirrors and heated washer jets possibly on the list too.

The resistor Supercharged speaks off it on the inside of the passenger wing just behind the light, its a bar like item with a connector on either end.

check the back of the fuse box cover it tells you what fuses do what and from memory the interior lights and cig lighter are on the same fuse. Does the car have an uprated headlight wiring loom? if you're not sure check the plugs that go into the back of the lights for signs of crimped wires AND check behind the passenger light to see if there are any fuses and relays tehre (sign of a upradted loom), there will be cables coming directly off the battery. If one of the relays are duff that can cause light issues.

fcking retards! Ill go out and buy a blue mk4 golf and claim its hers too.

See this thread. http://www.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?57039-Euro-Car-Parts-account-on-the-way If you say pay £40 for a second hand one, 2 months down the line it coud fail. So althought it costs more for a new one, its the safest option

Better off buying new mate, as you dont know how long a second hand rad will last. Just my 2p

Cheers DG. Are the pins for the lights the same type they use in ISO connectors?

Cheers Kev, where can the wiring and pins be got? That pin removal tool is pricey!

Think it will need replacing mate, assuming it is the switch.

fan switch in the radiator? sits between the top and bottom hose on rad. OR it could be the control box that sits in front of the coolant header tank.

You dont have necessarily have to support the engine, the subframe will still be in place. But if you want to, put the jack under the sump, with a bit of wood between the 2. Dont try jacking the engine up, just pump the jack up enough to apply a small amount of pressure on the engine.

Good tip on te coke bottle. Forgot to say i filled rad up before putting hoses back together and topping up from reservoir

Funny cos i did mine only a few weeks ago. Take the front of the car off, seems daunting but really it isnt and it will make like so much easier. Also the fan switch - on mine the rubber seal had desintigrated so had to nip out and get some rubber O rings. Other then that there's not really much you can go wrong. I also found once it was all back together that the water wasnt circulating so the engine was over heating and the water in the reservoir was clap cold, after messing around i finalyl got all the air locks out. Until i found that there was no hot air in the cabin, again needed to get more air locks out - be prepared for the air locks as they're prone to air locks. Have plenty of coolant/water mix as the water will boil over due to the process of getting air locks out. Where in W yorks are you mate?

They're either automatic, based on the outside temp (sure it says that in the manual), or work off the heated rear window switch like the mirros do.

THe manual does say the VR uses X amount of oil in X amount of miles. So SOME consumption is normal. I think its a litre per 1000 miles (dont quote me on that). The leak above the manifold i assume is teh PCV top right of the block and has a pipe going into the inlet pipe. This can leak, best stop it leaking onto the manifold heat shield. If you take car for a run, check on over run (off throttle whilst going down hill ideally) see if there's a puff of blue smoke from the exhaust - though may not see it from inside car. This would be valve stem seals or if the spark plugs are getting oiled up it could well be piston rings. Take the plugs out and take a look at them, esp 1 and 6, they can tell you alot about the condition of the engine. I dont think fuel in the oil is a good thing.

I get discount through my sisters boyfriend, but will be well up for this too, just in case ;-)

Can anyone tell me if you can get the wires out of the back of the original headlight connectors. I stupidly cut the main beam wire too close to the original wiring when fitting my uprated loom, could do with lengthening it a bit. Also what amp wire it is?

Sorry am i missing something :lol: but wouldnt that mean good design / drainage?

ideally id like to supercharge it, but will stick to my original respray and wheels