Critical_Mass

With them being flush im not sure you'll have much option other then to drill them out. Could you use a small drill bit to drill it into each bolt. Leave the drill bit in the nut then grip the drill bit with some pliers or mole grips, using it to turn the nut??

Depends what they were saying :lol:

Are they flush or do they have raised heads?

Lucky sod. Applied for tickets years ago and never heard anything. How long did you have to wait to get some?

I think they brought 9,000 of them didnt they?

Nope there are a few Torsten is one, there is another new member with a 24v rado - look in the newbies section. There are prob more but those are the ones that spring to mind.

:lol: obviously not everyone. Cheers Andi.

ah i'll get advert clicking then and just closing them :D :D :D Everyone should be doing this! Ive got used to the forum now. My ONLY issue is the "your posts" button missing - was looking for a front spoiler thread id posted in a week ago and wanted to give peeps an updated, but couldnt find it anywhere. If the "your posts" button was there id have found it :(

Some one more knowledgable may correct me but, im pretty sure you'd have oil in the water and or steam coming from the exhaust, other then the normal condensation you get when it first starts. Though it could also be the valve stem seals. Hopefully it will be that rather then worn bores.

1 and 6 look like oil burning to me. They are the first cylinders to suffer from ovalling of the cylinders i believe

For those of you interested, it is sorted! Finally! I hope that radiator lasts a while :lol: I ended up flushing both inlet and outlet pipe with a hose pipe and finally started to get hot air through the vents and the water is circulating as it should be! I was hating the car before all this as it was one thing after another with it. But had a spirited drive home and fell in love with it again :D

Overfuelling would normally cause black smoke. Still worth checking just to rule things out.

What did you do with teh Lambda when you put the decat on, or was you able to screw the lambda into the decat pipe? White smoke is usually water, so odd that you get white smoke on over run. normally blue smoke on overrun would indicate oil. Was the car up to temp when tat happened?

Well, went back today and had another look at it. Found no water was circulating still, water in header tank was cold, though the top and bottom hoses were hot. Had a mate take a look, who used to work as a mechanic. We took the top hose off and no water was in there despite it being really hot, maybe a little was getting through but when we took it off it was bone dry. Took the top hose off the thermostat housing and no water. Gave the bottom hose a squeeze and finally water started flowing and back into the header tank also! :D All good! BUT still no hot air coming out of the vent!! :( Left it to settle for tonight and tomorrow my mate is going to get one of those pressure systems to flush through the system and also get the hose to the pipe going to the heater matrix. hmmm annoying. ---------- Post added at 09:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:22 PM ---------- oh and the cap is knackered and need a new one.

Yeah i did fill the rad first, before anything else. Then topped the system up from the reservoir. I sorted of expected to have to deal with airlocks, what worried me is the temp light flashing away. Like i say the temps were bang on for both water and oil when it was flashing. The water was well above minimum too. VR6PETE - just to let you know what the ECP rad is like. Its pretty good quality, the only issue i found with it is there's a bracked on the top and bottom that i can only assume the fan assembly is supposed to sit in (based that on the rad i removed) and they did really accomodate the assembly. i didnt worry too much i just bent them in a bit further and the assembly was then able to bolt on ok.

Yeh i would have put them back on had i realised :lol: but to put them back on it seems the front would have to come back off and i wasnt going to do that!!! not today anyway. Yeah ive wrapped my h/l relays in a plastic bag along with insulation tape as once they got water in them just before an MOT and the lights didnt work :lol: I did do the normal procedure of getting it up to temp with the cap off whilst massaging the pipes. The top hose is hot the bottom is hot but not quite has hot as the top. Top hose is squidgy. :( Water light kept flashing despite there being plenty of water in the reservoir. Left it to cool down now and ill go back in a bit to try again.

Well got it fitted, took about 5 hours in total. That includes trying to bleed the system. The only slight issue is that i didnt put the air guides back on either side of the rad. Never mind. One other slight issue is trying to get all the air out of the system. The temps on teh gauge seem norm as does the oil. But there's no hot air coming from the vents. Also the water doesnt seem to be circulating back into the reservoir via the small pipe. Im told there will be air in the system. Ive left it all to cool down and will go back later to try again.

Just taken a look, i was expexcting the metal brackets to slide in somewhere along the actual radiator, but infact they slide in to the plastic ends done they. Yes there is somewhere for them to go.

One question though, how do the 2 brackets that go through the slam panel to hold the rad attach to the rad? Is there something to come off the old rad that they slot into? On the new rad there's a metal sort of bracket thing on the drivers side, but no way for this L shaped brackets to go into. The ECP one is £175 on the site, i got staff discount through a mate who works there. Got it for half that.

ok cool

Ah in that case im sorry i doubted you Jon - i was being a daft pillock :lol: :notworthy: Does it all need supporting like that or did you do that cos you took the cross member engine support off too?

Hi Jon, Sorry if i sound like im doubting you but im pretty sure mine is def attached to the slam panel (grommet end), unless im being completely stupid. Ive attached some pics to show you. Sorry for the pics - its dark outside. EDIT - looking at the first pic. is the pit of metal that the grommet is in an extension of the wing and the slam panel is then attached to IT?

Im pretty sure on mine its attached to the slam panel (??) Yeah just checked, the L shaped bit of metal the end of the bonnet stay rod attaches to is on the last bolt of the slam panel - the one at the back attahed to the wing ??? Anyone got any pics of theirs?

Guys Possibly going to have a go at fitting a new rad tomorrow and ive read up on whats needed. BUt one think thats not been mentioned is how, once the slam panel is pulled forward a bit to allow access or removed completely, how do you keep the bonnet raised enough?

lol^^ He means the rings the springs sit on.