peanut

In the ptrocess of removing the gearbox on a 95 rado vr. I was under the impression it was possible to do this with the engine in situ and removing the box from underneath. I just cant figure out how. Everything unbolted. driveshafts are unbolted from the gearbox side but i cant seem to get enough movement to drop it out underneath. Front mount is off and ive removed the rear subframe bolts to try and give me a bit more room but its not helped much. Any ideas would be much appreciated Gav

very nice, i like that a lot Gav

It was me who did the rebuild and refitted that bolt and i purged it with the piece of wire as per the bentley, obviously i didnt do it properly. My concern is wether or not i should replace the upper chain again. Could it have stretched with the undo pressure on the pad? Gav

It was me who did the rebuild and refitted that bolt and i purged it with the piece of wire as per the bentley, obviously i didnt do it properly. My concern is wether or not i should replace the upper chain again. Could it have stretched with the undo pressure on the pad? Gav

Yeah but this one was worn down to the rivets in less than a thousand miles. Dont know wether this was down to there being too much pressure in the piston in the tensioner bolt or possibly too much slack in the chain Gav

As per the title, just about to change the upper tensioner pad on a 95 vr. The engine was rebuilt not long ago with new chains and tensioner. Ever since it was fired upf rom the rebuild theres been a tattping coming from the head (same sound as sticking tappet) Just took the upper chain cover off and the tensioner pad is fooked. Two big grooves and the tip missing. Guessing there was something wrong with the tensioner bolt that screws into the back off the head creating too much pressure on the back of the pad. Might have even been overtorqued when refitted or not purged properly. Could this have stretched the chains? or could it be the chains have a manufacturing fault and have too much flex? Anyway...how much slack should be in the chain with the chain cover and tensioner bolt removed? Ta muchly Gav

free bump, ive got the number of someone who does transport vehicles but not rung him yet. Hoping Wayne from CNM spares will get back to me as he said he can help Fingers crossed GAv

Out of interest what were your symptoms for inspecting the tensioner pad? Im wondering if i didnt purge the tensioner bolt when i reinstalled it :( leaving air inside, or i over torqued it? would this lead to adverse pressure on the back of the pad or would the damper in the bolt compensate for this? Bugger is all ive got to say, especially as it looks like it was my fault, Bum :( Sorry Zed :(

Took some more pics the other day if you want them mate, also defo think you should go with what we spoke about on the phone :lol: Gav

Just because its been changed doesnt mean to say its not leaking, did he do the thermostat at the same time with new gasket? the crack pipe runs across the front of the block from the back of the water pump housing to the thermostat housing. The crack pipe is an interference fit into the back of the water pump housing, if this has been moved when he changed the thermostat housing theres a good chance its cracked as they get very brittle over time and dont like any movement. Or even if the O-ring where the crack pipe fits in the thermostat housing isnt seated properly this also could be leaking HTH Gav

id go with crack pipe, the liile rubber hose coming off it to the oil filter housing or even the thermostat housing itself and its dripping down along the crack pipe Gav

easiest way to tell is obd11 doesnt use an isv, find a mk3 vr and rob the parts you need off that. Theres a couple of good how to threds on here to if you use the search mate Gav

et voila.... Wedge.... http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h281/ ... do0024.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h281/ ... MG0507.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h281/ ... MG0509.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h281/ ... MG0505.jpg Wedge and Zed... http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h281/ ... rm0046.jpg Zed... http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h281/ ... MG0508.jpg

all is not lost....mrs badcrumble number 2 sat here waiting for you mate :lol: Gav

Did a drop test on the battery the other day so defo not that.

i replaced the waterpump on this car about 2 years ago with a new vw one Gav

yes they would as in they would fill up naturally or continue to be starved? I unplugged the coilpack before initial fire up to build up oil pressure Gav

out of interest, if you didnt fill new tappets the oil would they continue to be starved of oil or would they purge themselves over time and fill up naturally? Gav

And I believe that like I believed the "I'm not getting shot of this one" line! :lol: So votes for what color will Gav go for next? invisible

i give up :(

updated my list, it gets worse :(

oh and then theres the bikes......thats another story though :(

Mines quite embarrasing but here goes... Fiat 126 sport (orange trim , rusted away while i was driving it) Yellow beelte 1972? split screen, killed it driving back from a surfing trip to thurso trying control the throttle with a shoelace out the passenger side window) Rusty brown camper (came with built in welder, seriously) Mtro 6r4 replica, ( chuffing horrible, filler weighed more than the car did) mini pick up (ex forrestry commision, fitted the metro turbo engine from above) Nova 1.2 antibes (cav sri 130 engine) Series 1 audi 80 sport (white) Cavalier sri 130 Peugeot 205 xs (fitted 405 mi16 engine but never got it running right) Ford xr2 mk1 (fitted 1760 x-flow mk1 mexico engine) Ford fiesta 1300 supersport (engine from above fitted) Series 1 audi 80 sport (fitted 1800 16v on carbs) Series 2 audi coupe gt 2.2 series 2 audi 80 sport (red) series 2 audi 80 sport (champagne) series 2 audi 80 sport (grey) series 2 audi coupe quattro ((fitted 20v 7a) series 2 audi coupe gt (champagne) series 2 audi coupe quattro (fitted audi 100 turbo mc engine) series 2 audi 90 2.2 series 3 audi 90 2.2 series 3 audi 90 2.3 20v series 3 audi coupe quattro 20v (fitted eaton charger) Ur quattro then bought back the charged coupe quattro toyota celica gt4 carlos sainz ed ur quattro audi 100 s4 avant puegeot 309 gti rallye car mazda 323 gti 1.6 16v turbo 4wd golf gti mk1 golf mk1 (tall black 2.0 8v passat engine fitted) golf mk1 1.3 golf mk2 gti golf mk2 gti (2.0 bottom end and lairy cams) corrado g60 Audi s2 coupe 3b audi s2 coupe 3b Audi s2 avant aby (my baby :( ) series 3 audi 90 2.3 20v sport series 3 audi 90 Citroen bx estate, ( dont ask but it scared me) Series 1 audi 80 quattro Ford sierra 1.8td golf mk1 (fitted 16v) Golf mk2 gti (the car i originally met m15vw in many years ago :lol: ) Audi 100 2.8 quattro series 3 audi coupe 2.3 10v series 3 coupe quattro 2.2 10v series 3 audi coupe 2.3 20v series 3 audi coupe 2.3 20v audi 100 2.5 tdi avant Vento vr6 Audi 16 avant 18t quattro Corrado vr6 (red) series 4 audi 80 2.6 v6 auto Corrado vr6 (blackberry) Corrado vr6 (dragon green) Mk2 golf (fitted 2.9 vr6) Jetta 16v Corrado 2.0 16v (aqua blue) Corrado vr6 (burgundy pearl) wedge....mmmmm Audi 80 avant Mk3 golf estate (fitted 2.9 vr) Corrado vr6 (aqua blue) Corrado 16v (soon to be sold to beigey) Ive missed quite a few out, some that i bought purely to break and others i just cant remember.....quite sad really. If only id kept maybe one or two and not wasted so much money on all of them :( edit- just remembered some more and added them :?

yup theyre spot on mate, both nikki and i have had them in 205/40 16 and really impressed. Similar tread to the Dunlops v-shape. Stretch really well too :lol:

Get a screwdriver and place it different ares of the engine (with it running) and try and trace where its coming from. Try the head of the tensioner bolt too.