CorradoVR6-Turbo

Cheers mate :thumb right: So I take it Im looking for battery voltage from G01/03? & only when cranking the engine over? If theres no feed there where should I be looking? ecu? crank sensor? Also have a multi meter to check injectors, do i just unplug one & check for power (when cranking over)? cheers again Lee The siganl wire from the ecu is a earth switch,that controls the relay,you could just try bridging the relay across,this will let you know if you have a working signal wire from the ECU,but yes you should see battery voltage when cranking. Do you still have the imobolizer or has this been removed? As for injectors the multimeter needs to be switched to continuity,you should see it fluctuate when cranking,if nothing but a steady reading then its dead,

there is one signal wire to the fuel pump realy,once the relay is active it sends a feed to injectors,carbon canistor valve etc to name a few,so check this feed to the relay,you need to find out if injectors are working,either with a noide light or multimeter,this will tell you straight away if there if feed from the relay as Fla siad. http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html G01/03 not bad for a few bears me thinks :lol:

removing the brake servo with engine etc in place.....

wow............ :awesome:

get out and shut the door behind you!! :lol:

the one in the link will be fine.

:lol: ..you dont need to remind me :cuckoo:

I had the same issue some time ago with the valver and the VR but i just dremeled the holes slightly...been fine ever since... :)

that wont affect its flow,but you could scribe out the excess and file it to match?

the only ones i will use.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VOLKSWAGEN-CORRAD ... 500wt_1154

Yes the O2M will bolt onto the 12valve without mods its the same stud pattern,also the r32 flywheel will bolt onto the VR6 crank as they are the same as the 24 four motion and R32 cranks but go for the single mass flywheel as i dont know how the duel mass will affect the running of the 12 valve if any? As for fitting it into the car im sure you have read up on the net about drive shaft and mount adapters.

yea its the" love hate thing" i had with it :lol: but at the end you will love it again.

Still have to get the other bolts out do I not? Thought about the irwins. Maybe grind down the allen key socket. Plan was to get the downpipe cut and rewelded. Yea you will have to get them out at some point but it will be easier out the car and yea its a good idea above.

have you tried a swivel allen key? edit,or just remove the downpipe with the wategate attached?

Best thing to do is pull the downpipe off,using the allen sets i was on about,cut the pipe and have it rewelded....your going to have to do it at some point and rather do it now while its apart and its done for good. Trying to get a flange hot side to match up with the 3" V-Band will be harder.... Yes its fustrating but this is VRT life :brickwall: nothing goes to plan! oh and that manifold comes off fine with the motor in place mate, removing the downpipe you will see this.

ditto,400hp was dry weather fun only.

I was not about the 1.8t,and twin or bi turbo set up's are not compound,do a search on google. as for power for a decent Ar of 1.06 would be more suited,but with more lag,smaller AR is better spool but will puff out at the top if your aiming for 600hp

and you thought the raddo had high running costs :lol:

the 35r spools quickly and delevers to the red line,cant see any advantage of two turbos unless its for scene points! now compound turbo charging is what ive always wanted to do..... :luvlove:

I replaced the ecu and it cured my problem :)

that was random?!

plus traction....lots of it when turbo time :norty:

possibly as it can allow vacum to be drawn past there instead of crankcase pressure,its very easy to fit, just a few clips and its done! :D

pcv valve, common fault mate,you can get them from ford for cheaper as its the same as the sharan VR6

ahhh man....stop this right now i want it back!!! :lol: