CorradoVR6-Turbo

8)

yes they will,but you might have to swap the top mounts but i dont think you will have to.

good god no! keep it for the weekends if you got the oil burner :D

lol,i know the g60 are temperamental but chucking the motor out :lol:

result! :clap:

Ouch! :lol: [youtube:1hq9gg34] [/youtube:1hq9gg34]

and all you did was free off the compensator? :lol:

yea i just welded tacks all round and this would make it more stiffer than oem, hammering the inner arch was not to bad,just were ear defenders! :lol: its worth it imop,gets the look i was after and matched up the rear bumper nicly to the arches 8) plenty more pics here mate. http://s561.photobucket.com/albums/ss60 ... ?start=all

:lol: no problem,see if he passes it first!

I used no heat,it would have been better for sure but i just batterd them untill i got the shape i was after. As for the skin they only have around 4 spot weleds and the rest is boded together,basicly dont bother finding the spot welded just cut the inner arch all the way round as close as you can to the outer arch.....it takes time.....lots of it and plenty of grinding with you neck pointing in the wrong direction :lol: then its a matter of bending the inner tub away and using a shape dolly to get it to the shape of the outer arch....and then re hammer the inner arch back to the outer skin and spot weld it together,this also gives you much more tyre clearance,after that you need to seal it up real good to keep the weather out and then spray cavity wax from the inside with trims removed. I tried to use a arch roller but got no where fast as the the steal used is thick! combined that with the inner and outer tub will never happen :bad-words:

Yes that is working,if the tester still is an arse ask him how much its supposed to move by.....bet he has no clue! :lol: so if it moves,no matter how small its a pass!

it should move when the brake pedal is applied(you need to watch it as someone applies pressure),not much as should the lever,give the lever a real good hard pull towards its self until the little piston starts to move.

No there is just one valve,it does both sides. DONT go in quoting the mot testing guides as the tester is likely to get his heckles up and refuse to help and tell you to appeal which will cost you 50 quid and time and hassle. Just go in say you freed the compensator off and have a chat saying the top mounts are supposed to have movement when jacked up and it locates into a cone once loaded and on the ground and ask do they have movement once on the ground? ask him to show you?

Im a tester and i know that when you print of the VT40 check list it adds a note to vehicles with special notices,it would have been there on the VT40 also he should just pass and advise to cover his ass... get the drivers side rear jacked up and look just in front of the axle,you will see the bias valve,work wd40 onto the valve pivot by just tugging on it up and down until nice and free....thats a pass. a pic of said valve to look for... http://www.performance-cafe.com/images/1h0612151c.jpg

Cheers mate...the good old days... :salute: and yea they were cut and reweled,the inner tub is the inner arch,then reweled and seam sealed them undercoat and then stonechiped.

He cant fail it on the top mounts if he checked them in while the car is jacked up,only excessive movement if found when on the ground,he should know better... Load valve probably wants some wd40 and working to free it off. http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_250.htm Note: some MacPherson strut top bushes are designed to have lateral play when the suspension is hanging free. Rejection is only justified when play Is due to wear and/or maladjustment, etc.

This is how i did my arches,front are easy,rears i separated the inner tub from the arches and pulled them out and harmed them out,not easy but got it to the point only a skim of filler was needed to finish it off.

yip them rear arches are well tough to do.

ditto.....i will never by them again.

not a bad price...

Just to note mate that i for got to say in PM...have you done the free air calibration on the LC1 probe? and if you dont already know its a windband sensor do dont confuse it for the same one as the engine management side being narrow band if you are getting replacement ones,make sure you get a 95-96 MK3 vr sensor as the plugs will match up. Sound quieter? have you got another silencer in there?

Not being able to read the ecu could also be a power problem,does your obd2 port have 12v and earth working correctly? is there spark,fuel or injectors working? these could be all linked to power failure,most ecu's that go faulty give random fault codes,hardly any that i have done just dont not read at all.....

audi for me,haldex and then you can add a turbo later on..... 8)

what do you want pics of Ben?

Well done on the win mate! 8) looks well as ever :norty: