Dub_nut_g60

and as if by magic As your gauge in the car is saying almost 0 i would suspect the pump. My buzzer and light came on when i held revs between 2 and 3k, changed pressure switches to no avail, next though was pump and garage also confirmed, but when they dropped my sump they found bits of my big end bearing in there, the bolts holding No.1 cap and sheared and were blocking the oil pickup. Car still drove well and pulled like a train which didnt point to a dead bearing!! always had plenty of oil in it etc... But it meant new engine time. Not trying to worry you!! but bear it in mind as theres always potential for it.

Ive just taken my engine out and replaced it the last couple of days, hired an engine crane from HSS. Took 5 mins to take out and another 5 to put back in for the sake of £25 it was well worth it and made the job so easy!

Id put money on it being another case of an uprated loom relay failing

Does the oil pressure light also flash on the dash to confirm it is the oil pressure warning buzzer? If so, my guess would be your oil pump is on its way out.

My bet is either a connection in the new loom has worked loose, or the relays have got water in them, both have happened to me a couple of times! Might as well check the fuses in the fuse box under the dash too, just in case! If it is the uprated loom that is dead you might be as well off making a new one yourself with 4 relays and fuses (1 for each sides dipped and main beams) its really not difficult to do, and theres guides in the WIKI to help you.

If the loom has been modified with an uprated loom it could be a fuse or relay in the new wiring has gone. You'll be able to tell if you have an uprated loom added as there will be relays and fuse holders around the battery area. Not 100% sure on colour, but think its the yellow.

Sorry, your all wrong. Bordeux Pearl, as Tina Turner once said, is 'simply the best, better than all the rest"

Agree with that. A rebuild certificate is no indication of how the car/charger have been driven since its rebuild. Even if it was done 10k ago, better safe than sorry to get it done!

Its not usual, but its not uncommon! 117k isnt anything to worry about really, most C's are getting there or well over by now. Obviously ask why it was replaced (my guess would be it grenaded) and check what mileage has been done since then (to be honest, unless its been rebuilt recently your probably just as well off getting the charger serviced on any car once youve got it for peace of mind) The G-Lader is a reliable unit as long as it is well maintained and regularly serviced. Paper work is only half the story, just because a car has a full service history doesnt mean it wont need work or runs perfectly. Take it for a drive and see whats what and go from there, if it doesnt 'feel' right walk away. If you can take someone with you who knows a bit about the G60 so you have a second opinion, and read the buying guide at least and maybe take a copy with you. Good luck!

Several weeks ago i was having issues with my oil pressure, took it to a garage who agree with me in thinking it was the oil pump at fault, so they went to change it, but upon taking off the sump they found parts of the main bearing! the worrying thing is that it was driving fine (even the guy who took it for a test drive at the garage couldnt beleive it!) Anyway, managed to source a new engine thanks to G60SC_Stoney and am slowly taking the old engine out and putting the new one in! Considering my knowledge level when it comes to working on my car i think its going quite well! Thought id post up my progress so far! In one piece: Face off: Bumper off: Slam Panal off: Rad and boos pipes off: Altenator, supercharger (oil feed and return(, oil filter housing, oil cooler, some water pipes off: Poor car!

Possibly a stupid question, are you sure you removed the temp sender and not the oil pressure switch? Just thinking if you took out the pressure switch and replaced it with a temp sender the warning might go off until the oil reaches 80 degrees and the temp sender starts sending signal, which would be about 5 mins as you describe! Pressure switch is directly on top of oil filter housing and temp sender is much lcoser to the block. Of course i may be completly wrong! dont know if its even possible to swap them by acident???

Got it done by GAP security, the alarm was already in the car, they just added the remote start so cant comment on how a full install would go, but i was very impressed with the guys work

Indeed i do!!! It can be a god send in the winter, means i can start the car in the morning and it will defrost itself (and wake up the whole town in the process!) Mine is an add on to a Clifford Concept 300. Its rigged so that i have to push 2 buttons on the remote before turning the ignition off. Then get out and lock the car and engine turns off. You can start the car and leave the alarm fully armed, then when you unlock it it will cut the engine if you dont turn the ignition on when you touch the brake pedal (would of preferred it on the clutch though!) Its also a great laugh making old people jump, or seeing people look very confused!

Hmmm... after reading that i think i might need to change my blinker fluid soon

last time mine went on the rollers my prep on the day was, accidently overfill with oil, leave off oil filler cap so oil went all over engine bay, run it with standard unleaded, and blow half my face off while lighting a BBQ doused in petrol. My car put out 198.3BHP and 200 ft/lb of tourque, which is exactly what i was expecting! So as long as your geometry is sorted i wouldnt worry too much about 'prepping' the car, after all a run on the rollers is equivilent to a few minutes thrash on the motorway!

I am planning on doing an engine swap at the weekend (G60 engine for G60 engine). I'll be swapping all the ancilleries from one block to the other as they are all in good working order, so dont think i need to replace much. my list of bits to change is currently: Clutch Inlet Gasket Exhaust Gasket Battery Is there anything else that is worth changing at the same time its all in bits? Also the clitch kits from GSF, do they include all that is needed or do i need to get a release bearing too? Also is GSF ok for these bits? or can anyone recommend anywhere better/cheaper? TIA Andy

saw that in thew wiki after i posted (missed it first time round!) Will sort it our on saturday so i can swap the engine!

Ok guys, my car has just beeen dropped off home after the garage said it needs a new engine, just went to give a once over and i cant get in! Before i call the garage and have a go, and get nowhere fast, Does anyone know how i can get into a C that is A. locked B. has a dead battery C. has a broken drivers door handle and D. has a key that will only work the drivers door handle?? Thinking laterally, could i use the 'stuck bonnet' techniques as per the wiki, change the battery so the alarm works and unlock the rest of the car that way?

Seems to be differing opinions here! Do you mean the BBM charger doesnt last or the engine itself doesnt last? I would be looking at using the 2.0 bottom end with th G60 head and the G-lader charger. Think i may give Darren a call later!

Good news! I will be able to use the head from the G so thats not a problem. Would i use the G60 loom of would i need the 2.0 one? Will have to investigate head gaskets etc.. for compression. I assume the charger bracket etc.. should all bolt on ok.

Sorry, my bad. I did assume the internals would be different etc... but would they be up to the job without uprating the eods etc.. As for compression could this be reduced by using a thicker headgasket as the VR boys do?

As title really, am looking a for a new engine for the G, Goldie has spotted a 2.0 8v M3 Golf in a scrappy local to me. What i would like to know is, would it work as a straight swap for the 1.8 in the G60? e.g - will the internals be up to the job with the G-lader bolted on? Will the piperwork for the charger plumb in easily enough? would there be any benefits making a hybrid with the G60 head and 2.0 bottom end?

Dont know if its any help tom, but on the G the blue temp sender is for ECU and the black is for gauge. Thought all C's were the same as far as those 2 were concerned? Isnt there also a yellow one on the VR for fan control or something?

I may possibly be looking into the realms of a supercharged 16v. My G60 is dead for starters! I may buy the 2.0 16v engine that Goldie/Toad are selling. This has probably been covered before but, what would be involved in using the G-Lader on the 2.0 16v? Short runner? lower compression? different throttle body? and what sort of ball park ish cost for parts (will probabaly attempt myself/with Toad (although he doesnt know it yet!)) I will be able to use the G60 ECU but will i need the 16v wiring loom etc...??? Sorry if it a basic question but am only just starting to look into it from necessity! TIA

Well off with your guess of a week Jim! clicky