mr.ots

That's a real shame, it looks like a real nice car in the pics. Hope you get back into a new one soon.

The bumper will fit, however, the later cars had wider wings fitted to accomodate the plus axle of the VR6 so you will find that the early spec bumper wont fit quite the same where it meets the wheel arch. the later style bumper sticks out more.

I believe they fit but bear in mind that if its the front bumper then the fogs and indicators are different. the swage lines of the bumper (front and rear) are also a little different.

I did this job on my car recently along with the sway bar bushes, links and ball joints and the car now feels superb upfront. Going to do the rear beam bushes next which should be fun. When you come to do the other side bear in mind that the sump will obstruct removal of the front control arm bolt (SLC). You either need to undo the front and rear engine mounts and raise the engine sufficiently for clearance or remove the sump. I went for the first option.

Just thought I would post up this link for anyone looking to replace their rear discs. Seems like a reasonable price for Brembos with free UK delivery. http://www.nextdaybrakes.com/brembo-original-rear-brake-discs-pn-08500520-fits-volkswagen-corrado_p22287487.htm

Yeah, I thought the cover looked the wrong way around, lol

I think people get a little bit too swayed by brand and price. Most expensive isn't always best. This review from Autoexpress (although a little old now) puts a Draper (a relatively cheap wrench) in first position over some more expensive competition and comment on it's "near perfect accuracy". http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/59647/torque_wrenches.html I tested both of my Draper wrenches against my friend's very expensive calibrated Snap On and they were both spot on. In this more recent Autoexpress review the Draper (4 stars) had a 2.29% average error against a 2.69% for the Teng (3 stars) costing over twice as much http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/233482/draper_30357.html If you are only going to be using a torque wrench occasionally then I don't think there is a lot of point in speding more than necessary.

I don't think they look right on older cars, can't honestly see the point either.

Disconnect the battery first

Yes the tab points down and the ARB links to it from above. Can you get some pics up?

I don't think the lack of the engine is your problem. Even with the suspension at the full length of it's travel the ARB shouldn't touch the wishbone. As I mentioned in my last post, the slight angle at both ends of the ARB should point downwards. If yours are then it's fitted the correct way up.

It only covers a very small range (5-25nm). I think there are better ones available for less money. I went for one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0001K9T2O/ref=mp_s_a_2?qid=1299885804&sr=8-2 and one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0001K9S52/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1299885804&sr=8-1 They have an accuracy of +-3%. With these two you get 10-80nm and 30-210nm which will cover most applications.

If yours is classic green then just because it falls within the range stated by RW1 doesn't confirm it is a storm. As he mentions, there were 8 classic green VR6's produced with beige leather which could have been badged as storms by owners. If you want to be completely sure then phone VW and they will be able to confirm.

I refitted the wishbones and ARB today. When the ARB goes back on the slight angle on the ends should point downwards. I was amazed at how different the car drives, feels so much more solid up front. Just need to get the alignment done now and then see how well she drives with the new R32 bushes. :)

I had a look at my ARB today which is off the car and as davidwort said it should be flat in the centre when fitted the correct way up. If it is upside down the centre section would be pointing down towards the ground as this would be rotated downward in order for the droplinks to reach the wishbones, this way round the ARB will foul the wishbones. If your centre section is pointing down at the moment (U shape) then the ARB is upside down as it should be straight. When I previouly said it should be U shaped, this is with the ARB off the car and the ends (droplink ends) touching the ground.

As far as I can tell, that coil was specific to the 9A. I can't find it listed for any other model. That's not to say that a coil from another model wont work.

Do you mean an igntion coil for a distributor model or a coil pack (ignition transformer). For the 93 year model: The 9A engine is showing as an igntion coil in etka and the part number is 535 905 115 The ADY and 2E engines show as a coil pack and the part number is 6N0 905 104

You mean these: http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p6639_Fuse-Box-Panel-Clip.html

I agree that the car could fetch more than 5K with such low mileage if in good condition. If you can get some pics up it will give us a better idea.

Thinking about your statement that the ARB should be flat across the middle when on the car, this would coinside with the U shape when the ARB is off the car. When the raised ends are resting on the floor the centre section would be pointing down and forward (U shape). So this would mean that if the centre section was pointing down when on the car then the ARB must be upside down as the ends have had to be lowered to reach the wishbones. Hope that makes sense :)

When I remvoed my ARB I noted that the bend in the centre was the low point and the outer sections raised up from this point as you look at it off the car from the front.

You should be seeing a U shape, the bend should be pointing down.

The wishbones on the VR6 (plus axle) are sided. Removed mine today along with the ARB to change all the bushes. The ARB droplinks on the VR6 attach to the underside of the wishbone with a nut and bolt so you need to make sure the tab on the wishbone is pointing to the ground. The part numbers are also stamped on the wishbones. Left 1H0 407 151 A (VR6) Right 1H0 407 152 (VR6) All other corrados (standard Axle) use one wishbone (191 407 151 B) that can be fitted to both sides and the droplinks attach to the top of the wishbone with the bolt securing it from underneath. The droplinks often snap when the bolt is romoved. The ARB if removed can only be reinstalled one way otherwise it will foul the wishbones. the central bend in the wishbone needs to be pointing towards the ground when fitted. Hope this helps.

If you completely removed the ARB during your refurb you may have installed it upside down. Had mine off the car today and noted that it does go back only one way round. Hope it's not the case. Good luck.

I have to confess that I had assumed that the bush wasn't included with the wishbone as it is listed as a separate part in ETKA, but obviously this is to allow separate order of the bush alone. Anyway, I've got the R32 bushes, new ball joints, ARB bushes and brackets, droplinks and all of the associated nuts and bolts to carry out the change over. Still came to £215 to complete both sides but much better than £450 with the wishbones (probably a little less without the additional rear bushes that aren't needed separately). So I'll be under the car tomorrow removing the wishbones and fitting the ARB bushes. I'll probably clean up and hammerite the wishbones before refitting. I'll take a look at the tie rods while i'm carrying out the other work to see if they look like they need doing. once that lots complete it will be off for a 4 wheel alignment. When I did the top mounts a while back the car felt like it was on ice around corners until i had it alighened properly, it's definately essential.