mr.ots

No not mine Rob, it's hard to tell from the scan but that one is an M reg, mine was on an N before the plate change. I wonder if anyone on here owns it?

A friend of mine bought a copy of the May 95 edition of "Performance Car" from ebay for the article they ran on the Alfa Spider as he owned one at the time. As he looked through he noticed this article and gave the magazine to me. I wasn't sure if its been posted before so thought I would scan it and put it up. Corrado Storm.jpg[/attachment:2uuum4rv] I think the closing sentence couldn't be more true :notworthy:

I feel really awful now because it was me who bought it! :( Ok I don't feel that awful, it is a Corrado after all :D Although a little more expensive, there is this one for sale at the moment. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/REVELL-1-18-METAL ... 3a55888055

They have put it in correctly. The small part on the bearing (inner) is held in by the nut and thrust washer. Don't over tighten the nut when you do it up, you should just be able to move the washer with a screwdriver. Make sure you pack with grease.

I ended up removing the thermal overload from the spoiler motor, which was stopping the motor part way up & down, as just cleaning and greasing the runners didn't cure the problem. It's been working fine now for the last four months :) This may help viewtopic.php?f=3&t=78901

It will only show as a VR6 on the V5. If you want to be sure it's genuine then you will need to phone VW and check with them.

Thanks for the compliment Ugly Bloke. Was just on my way to the wheatsheaf to have dinner with some friends. Were you in your C?

Now had you been in your C I would have noticed you :) , although I did think you may have been having a look at the car as you hung back for a while before you overtook (I guess that was you). The wife (blonde lass) and me stayed in Lyndhurst over the weekend.

You need to remove it.

I don't have a pic of the thermoswitch but it's the green component attached to the round plastic end of the motor that houses the brushes. You will notice is is wired inline with one of the brushes, all you need to do is unsolder and remove it and replace it with some wire. I did mine about four months ago now and it has worked perfectly ever since. :) Be sure to clean and lubricate your runners aswell so as not to put the motor under undue strain otherwise you may find it starts blowing the fuse. :(

As Purple Tom has said it can be the thermoswitch cutting the motor feed. If you listen carefully when operating the motor on the switch you will hear a click as the spoiler stops. I ended up removing the thermoswitch completely and replaced it with a link wire as cleaning and greasing the runners and servicing the motor didn't cure the problem, I would imagine the thermoswitch itself can become a little tired over time. If the motor did overheat with the thermoswitch removed it would draw excessive current and blow the fuse at the fusebox, which is not uncommon when the spoiler starts playing up anyway.

I had to change my last set of Toyo Proxies T1R's at 11000 miles due to excessive wear on the outside edge on both tyres . The centre and inner edges still had 3-4mm. I had a laser 4 wheel alignment done when they were fitted and I'm happy that the geomertry was set up correctly. The Toyos are well known for having soft shoulders and Toyo themselves made a point of advertising the T1R's as having a harder coupound than the T1S's they replaced which suffered badly with shoulder wear. I've gone back to Continentals, wont be using Toyos again.

It's in the "special catologue" in the drop down menu.

I was having the same problem, cleaned all the rods and greased up the mechanism but still the spoiler would stop in stages. I notice when listening that there was a click when the spoiler stopped and it wouldn't move again until a second click. My first thought was a miroswitch problem but on further investigation it turned out to be a component inside the motor (green rectangular part wired inline with one of the brushes) which i suspect is some kind of regulator/resistor. Anyway, decided to bypass it and now it works fine. Not sure if it's going to work long term but thought it was worth a try.

The engine code for a VR should be in the fomat of ABV (2.9) followed by six numerical digits

Still showing available on a fairly recent version of etka but you would need to check with the stealers to be sure. Part no. 357 121 210

I picked up a set of these direct from VW and they were terrible on the c, the standard arms just don't push them hard enough to the screen. They ended up on my MK3 where they work great.

I've had toyos T1R's on the front of mine now for nearly 10k miles and the sholders have worn much quicker than the centres, probably going to need to change them quite soon. The grip is good but the wear is not. When I first bought the car it had new conti premium contact 2's all round and the fronts also needed changing at 10k but they had been given a hard time (new car driving style :D ) but the wear was very even across the tyre. The rears are still going strong (4-5mm) 20k later. Will probably go for Continentals or try the Michelins next time.

Mystic Blue Storm N199 *** spotted on the M25 today heading clockwise between jcts 14-16, exchanged a wave with the driver before exiting onto the M40 in opposite directions.

Ok Leon, thanks for checking.

Is that just the mast? I'm after the complete aerial. Checking the special catologue in etka 3A0 035 505 C is the only one that looks similar to my original aerial 1H0 035 503 C (dropped) and is showing listed for the Corrado. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfUntitled-1.jpg[/attachment:3vi7uncn] Untitled-2.jpg[/attachment:3vi7uncn]

Yeah I know they are expensive. If you can find the part no. that would be helpful. Thanks

Anyone?

I ran the rca and power cables under the passenger side carpet when I installed my sub in the boot and haven't had any problems with interference.

Had a look at my existing aerial today and the part no on it is (1H0 035 531 C) showing as discontinued on 31/08/97 with no replacement on ETKA. Has anyone bought an OE replacement recently who could advise of the part No listed on it. Mine is a later type with only one push fit co-axial connection. 3A0 035 505 C looks similar but I don't want to order one if it's the wrong type. Thanks.