mr.ots

Tried yes but trusted, hmmm I think not. A car thief will just saw through the steering wheel, bend it open and have that off in seconds. The only good wheel locks are the ones that encase the whole wheel like this one: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... hCmdMobile Not cheap at £80 but a much more likely to put off a theif. I've got a decent alarm on my C but still use one of these for the added visual deterrent.[/quote:1rlskrg6] Difference is, with an immobilizer the thief will **** up your car before realizing they can't start it. Usually with a bar the thief will not even bother, they will see the bar through the window and walk away- it is too much of a hassle.[/quote:1rlskrg6] Agreed, a visual deterrent is definately a good idea and that's why I use the Disklok even though I have a clifford alram with a proximity sensor and an audiable warning when someone just stands close to the car. The point I was making is that a bar is not much of a deterrent becasue they can be removed in seconds whereas if you want to get a Disklok off it's gonna take some time. A bar is a waste of money because most petty car thieves know that to remove a bar all they have to do is saw through the steering wheel which takes no time at all.

Tried yes but trusted, hmmm I think not. A car thief will just saw through the steering wheel, bend it open and have that off in seconds. The only good wheel locks are the ones that encase the whole wheel like this one: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... hCmdMobile Not cheap at £80 but a much more likely to put off a theif. I've got a decent alarm on my C but still use one of these for the added visual deterrent.

Drove from central London to Chertsey in Surrey today and the car was excellent. That heavy engine over the front wheels gives plenty of grip :) Saw an MR2 in a ditch on a small back lane coverd in compacted snow and drove past it with a :) on my face at how well the old girl was dealing with it all. :clap:

All G60s can do 170mph, just disable the rear spoiler, :lol: In the first pic it's not raised.

VW didn't originally include the Corrado in their Heritage Timeline until a number of emails from forum members, including myself, asking why it wasn't present! Shortly after that it appeared. :clap: http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/volkswagen- ... e/timeline

If it was around 6pm then it may have been me.

Thanks Jim, that's the company.

I'd stick with the original VW one to be honest. I replaced mine about a year ago now and I think it cost me around £150 ish from the dealers. I'm pretty sure they are made by a company in the UK but can't remember their name.

It sounds very much like your thermal overload inside the spoiler motor is failing. Had this problem myself some time back, cleaned all of the runners and regreased everything but still the same. this thread will give you more info: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83449 Basically you need to open the casing of the motor itself and bypass the overload. done mine nearly a year ago now and it's still working fine.

As Jon_vr6 said they come down close to the car actually stopping but I believe you can modify the spoiler control module by changing one of it's resistors to adjust the drop speed. It's also possible to change one to adjust the raise speed. I remember one guy fitting a variable control on the dash that he could manually adjust the raise speed to whatever he wanted. Do a search, there's plenty of info on it.

Saw a G60 (green I think) parked up in Lyne this morning.

M** VWC, Very clean Aqua Blue 16v parked up in Egham.

You can infact sell a plate that was an original issue when the car was first registered as long as it doen't say "non transferable" against it on the V5C. However, if you had an original plate that was taken off and replaced by a private plate, when that plate goes back on the car (when private plate removed), it then becomes non transferable.

And I am the old bugger who remembered watching the original episode when it first aired and asked the question here on the forum which led to it being found. Good team work Jim :lol:

There was an early and a later type base. Does your base have one or two wires exiting?

If you take a look at the top of the pic below it shows the correct location.

I've posted on this before, should be helpful: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83449

When you say removing the "coolant" from the evaporator I assume you mean "refrigerant". As I said before, the correct way to remove the refrigerant is with specialised recovery equipment. When properly recovered, refrigerant is either recycled or incinerated so that it does not cause environmental damage. Obviously it is possible to vent the refrigerant to the atmosphere by just disconnecting the evaporator connections and allowing it to escape, but I can not recommend this as it is illegal.

well I only want to take apart the heater box. I don't know if there is gas, coolant, etc that's why asked :| i'd like to know what will I find there. once the evaporator is replaced, I'll obviously take it to a garage so they recharge the system.... I'm not familar with how the evaporator is located within the heater matrix compartment, but if you intend removing it, it does of course contain refrigerant so disconnecting it would allow the refrigerant to escape, unless it has already lost it's full charge due to a catastrophic leak. If you need to remove the heater matrix to gain access to the evaporator then you would need to drain the coolant from that first. I'm sure someone on here who has removed one in the past will be able to tell you. Why are you removing the evaporator, is it damaged?

This one has been covered many times. Always worth using the search function first and here's one to get you started: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=78901&p=979500&hilit=spoiler+problem+on+switch#p979500

If you are going to break into the refrigerant circuit, the refrigerant must be recovered first which requires specialist equipment. It is an offence to evacuate the refrigerant directly into the atmosphere. Also how do you intend to recharge the system once you have carried out the intended repairs as the system will need to be brought under vacuum first, which again requires specialist equipment (vacuum pump, gauges) and you would also need lines, connectors and new R134a refrigerant to carry out the recharge. You should also pressure and leak test the system with with nitrogen and either ultra violet or a sniffer before the recharge. If you are not properly trained in this type of repair I would recommend you leave it to a qualified refrigeration engineer.

The car looks superb, congratulations on your fine purchase. How much did the chains and clutch change cost?

Spotted a red C with a debadged grille this evening at around 5:10 on the A40 heading towards the Target Roundabout. I was heading in the opposite direction in the Goof.

Another spot this morning (becoming a regular occurance lateley), a Mystic Blue Storm on the A3 around 9.30ish heading southbound towards M25. Reg N*** FLF If I remember correctly.

Had a black VR6 K*** TRU with a debadged grille behind me this lunchtime going through Addlestone. I was in the Golf and turned left at the roundabout towards Chertsey and the bloke went right towards Weybridge. Must be a forum memeber me thinks :)