2_Door_fun

Well they have arrived my shiny new Weitec lowering kit. All the way from the man of G. Pleased I am. So I have VR6 sping plates seperate bearings n mounts. How do they fit??? Sorry to sound totally thick but I have done this job many times before on many different types of car, but i'm a little stumped. The Original spring cap fits over ther threaded part of the strut rod and sits on the shoulder of the rod all very snug. When I tried the VR plate it just slipped over the shoulder of the rod and landed on the spring seat! :?: I have a porter's manual it has a diagram although very small on the components for the earlier type of mount with the built in bearing. I have a new set of these should all else fail. Advice and any diagrams appreciated.

I have an FSE sitting new in a box. Had it for the old Saab Turbo. Never fitted it as you had to butcher the original fuel lines.. I read that variable regulators can do strange things on 60 engines. Erratic fuel pulse. Which when used with a chipped ECU makes it difficult to map due to the varying deliverey of fuel I could be talking cobblers though. I do recon its better to have a flat fuel deliverey pressure to map from.

Or like my mates Dad who is a retired mechanical genius. His wife has just retired and she was a primary school teacher. As she shouts Brian we hear in a mutter. I'm just of to break something on the car dear!! :lol: If its not broke...brek it hahaha

Well dragging an oldy up here. The car will be fired up in the morning. 1st time since New year. Just woiting for my supercharger oil line from the man of G. I fitted an SNS 5.5 chip, Dubcharger told me if I don't have a gas analyzer at hand to re-tune the Co pot to about 450 ohms. Is this at tickover??? So I need a meter to do this? What is the procedure? Is the car running or what. Details please never done this before... Thanks all.

You can pop the bonett without doing the grill. Slide under the front of the car. Prob have to jack her up for this. You will need a small torch and a long flat bladed screw driver. With torch you are looking for the openings where the bonett pins slide home. once found you put torch in mouth and use the driver to slip the spring steel arm as you do this the bonett pins will release. Hope it helps

Here ya go. Did it a while back. Was my first post on the forum. Matrix n heaterbox out All good fun. :lol:

As I said.. Don't know about a No.. The pump went on easy. 4 big studs the whole housing came of. A quick clean up and on it went. Did not look for a No. Trusted in the god of Ekta not the guy that was using it....! Yes the car was standard before the chip. Infact it was fitted with an oversize pulley 90mm so the charger was under-running???? As for the SNS chip we wait. The car will be started for the first time since newyear next week. I have to retune the CO pot to around 450 ohms. So said Dubcharged. Anybody know how to do that??

Can't tell you about a No pump is now on as is all other stuff. Engine bay is finished. Ha what have I not changed in the last 3 months.. Here goes. Head skimmed and rebuilt. New headset with metal gasket. Gearbox all main bearings replaced plus VR 1st n 2nd gears..My mate did this he's a transmission builder. VR clutch.. Expensive from the dealer but what the hell VR strut mounts and bearings new Weitec kit from the man of G. Stage 4 charger rebuilt again by the man of G plus RSR outlet kit. All new belts plus shorter belt for the charger to match 68mm pulley SNS 5.5 chip for the ECU. New bearings in the front hubs plus all new CV boots both inboard and outboard. New heater box and matrix..What a day that was :mad: New throttle plate at the inlet. Old 1 had no vac nipples. You should see the pile of scrap that is out back...It grows daily. So yep I did the Cam belt and the tensioner. Not to hard. Bit of a fiddle with the dizzy but got there in the end. I have not heard her run in 4 months. The suspension will be done this weekend then to fire her up. :D

Yep I can help. I replaced my pump on my 60 lastweek with a Vag one. Part No on my invoice is.... V037 121 010 BX £28.30 with as you say a £40 surcharge when old duffer is given in return. Actually I was going to PM Dinkus later I have a how to replace the water pump to post. What fun it was to nip down the local shop and buy for £12 the pump...Then shear off the bolts on my old one....Dong. The lads at VW said why stores supply just the face of the pump is beyond them. You will never remove the bolts from the old one. Way better to replace the whole housing.

Oilman said: The PRO S is a "race" oil that can be used in road cars but it's built with extreme applications in mind like 10 track hours! At £45 :shock: a pop that oil better be very nice to me nevermind my engine :lol: Still as you say you get what you pay for. Now where's my gallon of Tesco synthetic....

Hi. Sounds like selector problems. Stick in neutral but box is not. The drivetrain in the transmission may be stuck between gears, Or selector fork problem. Either way it will be a gearcase open job. Not getting 5th def sounds selector related. it is always the extreme gears such as 5th and reverse that show selector problems. Are all your cables in good order and the linkage at the stick? Have you read this post? Dinkus comments on the mech below the stick. May help

Well actually the lip is where I think this common problem occurs. The door skin is bonded to the door chassis. I think that some of the skins were a little long. So they were butted up to make em fit. other wise there would be a slight overhang on 1 door edge. So as you stick the skin on the edges meet this causes a slight bowing of the skin. Hence poor seal fit. I appear to have made a mountain out of a mole hill. My gap was a few mm. Some on the forum are talking about 10mm gaps.

No not really. In the end I had to just pull it. Once kinked then they are dead. Really its a 1 shot wonder. I fitted my new seal and was not happy with the fit. I slipped it off but it is still mishapen.. I will end up buying another in the future. More £'s

G werks sell a spray can of charger lube. To be used when the return pipe is deleted. Its listed under charger accesories, PTFE based.

I slid mine into place. The electric grease helped a great deal. white silicone grease. It also helps to seal and paint chipped away unser the seal.

Hehehehe :lol: Don't ya just love it when that happens. Usually to me from my sis...

Evening all. Its not to had to do. You can use silicone grease on the door edge. Then with effort slide the seal on. Or position the seal on the edge and get a hammer and a block of wood and crack it onto the door. Either way is good as it does not distort the seals smooth line. Once these seals are bent or buckled you can never get em nice and straight again. Should be on very quick.

I had my box rebuilt recentley. Refilled it with Silktran Syn 5. Supposed to be better than MT90 :?: We'll see how it runs soon. :D

No wories mate when ya get to it let me know. Show ya how its done. :lol:

Cheers mate. I'll take a look tomorrow. Swapped it all out weeks back but had much more stuff to do since, The car is nearly ready after being off the Rd for 3 months. just want her as best as she can be,

Ask for diesel injector run off pipe. I just bought some at halfrauds today 1m for £4 plus it comes with propper injector blanking caps. I used this to blank off the lower vac nipple. Well I bottled it today :oops: I decided not to fire up the 60. Fitted the Mocal cooler though so the oil circuit is complete. I felt in to much of a hurry. So I'm away for the weekend and will check all I have done on Monday... Take my time I think. Check the timing is set correct as I fitted a new belt last week.

Was about to offer help then, I see you have a 16v best leave it to those that have em. The pulleys are hard to move once you reach TDC, So once inlign it should be ok to do. Always fit a belt from bottom up. No belt teeth not fitting anywhere that way.

oooh nice.... do you have any pictures ? and did you have to use smaller gauges ?[/quote:6ac05] Nope i used standard 52mm gauges. Will get a shot after if I can. They are hanging out the dash at the mo. With wires everywhere. Major work on the C at the mo. Just got a couple of shots. Ha just pushed all the wires in...Still loads to do :roll:

I have boost n oil pressure in the ashtray. Well the ashtray is removed and the gauges sat in the hole. Made a surround for em. Seems to work fine.

As a jump in point... My first job on the 60 was replacing the heater box. I got one from a yard out of a Mk2 golf. I did'nt take the cables from said Golf. Are these cables any different to the Corrado early setup (slider controls). I ask as all seems to work well except when switching between hot n cold my slider does not go all the way over to cold. The flap works fine and the temp works fine. The control seems to stop short. Any thoughts? Could I have swapped the cables over at the box end. The defroster windscreen is fine. Then the other two are blue n black. Anyone no which cable should go to which part?? Cheers