2_Door_fun

Hi. Yeah easy job. Replace both. Don't judt buy the drop links. Get a link kit. It contains the rubber bush's and washers nuts ect. I bought 2 drop links from GSF I got just the links. They were expensive and a waste of my time. What good is a drop link if you use old rubber. I just went to my local motor stor. Got links much better made than GSF ones plus all rubbers everything for half the price. Its an easy job to do. Handy to have a trolley jack to slip under the wishbone and just jack it up into position fit the lower rubber n plate and bolt it up. Hope that helps Hay just saw your in Cheshire!!! Where are ya?

Here ya go mate. My cars of for its retest 11:30 tomorrow morning here's hoping :roll:

I Failed my MOT on the bias valve being seized. WD40 and a hammer :lol: Soon soughted it. These are the lines going into it.

18 mpg :shock: Would a dicky lambda probe cause this? I just changed the waterpump on mine. I thought the bearings had gone in it. The pulley was wobbling. I bought a new pump then stripped the pulley off the old 1. I bought new pulley bolts x3 new spring washers x3 and also I found that the pulley has 3 small washer shims behind it. Only 1 was present. Hence it was wobbling!!! So The old pump was fine!! Refitted all the new stuff plus new shims and its fine no more wobble Still all done now. Does the crank pulley have any shims? Maybe worth a look?

I have had this on other cars. To be honest it was always when I bought a quick fit cheap set of wipers. Sought of the as seen on TV multiblade type. From the £1 shop :oops: My wipers went and they were handy. I doubt that Aero wipers are a quid :lol: So I doubt you can stop the slap.

If you could mate that would be great. The front lines will prob be the only thing he may still pick on. The rest will pass fine. New rear caliper fitted so handbrake works well on both sides now. He failed me on a small plastic clip on the rear hard lines. It was broke. Pulled a sim design from a 7 series BMW in my mates yard. Plus headlights needed new self tappers to tighten em up. They will aim the lights as part of the test. Other than that its wait n see.

They could not fit me in till this coming Monday 11:30. Bit done really but hay whats another weekend I have to pay again. £44 long gone it seems are the days of 'you have a fortnight mate' I was going to take it to another place being as I have to pay but then they may find something else to fail her on. So here's hoping for Monday.

I think you should see a Dr for that condition :lol:

Bar gauges are :roll: Not as much fun as watching a needle swing rund the PSI circle. Jap Greedy gauges are well tidy. Not sure if they would suit the VW's we all have. The full sweep VDO gauges are prob the best reallty. Very simple.

Hay Riley was it hard to locate the headunit where the ashtray is or was on yr car? I thought about that. The gauges look good. I think its such a dramatic change that it will take the eye a while to get use to it. I have 2 gauges in the ashtray.

Well after a day n a bit of work the 60 is ready for a retest. :roll: Here's what I did with the front lines. What do ya think? Used some hose and nylon ties to reroute the path of the hose. I measured the length of the hose. Just under 400mm. Are the 60 hoses? Try for a retest today.

R1 is usually ported a bit more than Stage 4. Jabba do an R1, GWerks do a full blend charger. Prob on a par with the R1. Basically the charger has been ported to within an inch of it life.Both inside and out.. Mine is Stage 4. You can see the work when you look at the exhaust port. Lots of grinding work. See here Scroll down the page you will see side by side shot of Stage 4 and an R1 spec charger. Then you fit different size pulleys to the charger for further fun :D

I was going to get Gmax shoxs. Till I noticed on their site. It said gmax shoxs can only be used with Gmax springs??? Maybe its just a sales thing. I went for a Weitec kit. Got the whole lot from G-man. Took my old springs off only to find they were Gmax :roll: Sitting on totally knackered mix n match standard shoxs.

Well I may not get my MOT if this guy gets his way. These are on the Bahn Brenner site. they are for the 60 and are def shorter than mine. Did ya see the link on the previous post. they are well long and listed for the VR6 :?:

Ahh wright. I just looked on this site. Yes They do indeed look like VR lines. The G60's fronts are way shorter. :roll: Previous owner the mechanic again!!!! Exactly... Anybod got any photos of their hoses? So what would be a good way of rigging this up? I was thinking of the route I have shown. What I could do would be to get a length of rubber hose. Slice it length ways, slip it round the hose then fit it into the metal tab and then bend the tab round the hose, Using teh sliced hose as a sought of rubber buffer or something. Can you buy Goodridge hoses in pairs. As in the front if they are indeed to long.

As it sez in the title. Fitting a new raer caliper at the mo. The old 1 had a totally siezed handbrake mech. The braided lines were fitted by previous owner. They came off easy enuff. Now refitting and as I come to final tight the hose just spirals. Do the Goodridge hoses come with a rotating collar? As in 1 spanner on the nut and another on the body to hold it steady? This is how the Nitrous lines work on the car. Please answer :lol: Edit Done it now.. Just had a break from it...Worked it from the hard line end..Easy :oops: Well handbrake works a treat... Now I have to sought out the Goodridge lines. The tester said they seem to be to long. Was real picky about this point. He felt they could snag on any part??? So see what ya think. Front line side on. Front line from below. Route he would like. Rear axle line. He said this could catch on something? Said the line again looks to long. It seems far less worrying than the lines that enter the rear brake load valve. Comments on this and maybe a few pointers as to how others have there lines routed would be appreciated. Ta all.

Having been working on the car all morning. I have freed up the Brake valve thingy. Easy enuff. Hammer and WD40 :lol: Moves very easy now. Seems I have a totally stuffed pass side rear caliper. Takes a hammer to move the handbrake assembley. If I pull the handbrake then release the caliper stays in the on position.... Guess this is a new caliper then :roll: More expense.

My car failed today on Nearside handbrake only at 9%.. Is it just 1 cable or does it hook into a cross axle cable. Also failed on teh rear vlave thingy. Said it may be mechanical. Some lever may be siezed.. If its pressure related he said I'll need a new one. Where is this lever? Cheers all.

Sweet where ya get it done. Mines at Stage 4 plus 68mm pulley n SNS 5.5 chip :D

Hi to the both of ya... My car failed its first MOT today after a 5 month rebuild. So I had a chance to take it on the Rd. Two n from the MOT. My Oil cooler worked a treat. Max temp was 98°. Well impressed with that. Not bothered about the fail really. only minor stuff. Pleased with all the work I have done. As for fan. The tester said it did kick in. When running the emmisions test. They have to get it up to temp. I was told on the forum that Stage 1 should kick in around halfway on the gauge and 2 higher on the gauge??? I removed the heat exchanger when I fitted the Mocal cooler. Removing the old waterbased heat exchanger will drop water temps. The heat from the oil is not being disapated to the water system.. Do any relays work with the cooling fan??

Well quite upbeat actually. All the work I have done over the last 5 or so months passed. Including emmisions. Car failed on small points most from previous owner. Most notable was the nearside hand brake no pressure. he said it was prob new cables needed. Also near side differential valve linkage siezed. Been reading a few posts on this little item. Seems like it could well be a nightmare to fit a new one if needed. Where is the valve and how do I pos free it up as in the lever. I recentley bled the system and used 5.1 in the system. However knew nowt about this valve. Would not closing it or whatever have affected the brakes in anyway? loose headlamps. New self tappers required to lock em down so they can dial in the lights on the beam setter. Also all brake lines unsecured. I have or rather the car has braided lines all round. People on the forum have failed on this point before. Anybody got some answers. Other than that he was gutted to have to fail her. He was getting on a bit. Said he could see most of the work I had done. Thinks I got distracted by the real big job of rebuilding her and did'nt see the small things. Had to take her to a different workshop as she is to low for their ramps. Drove the 60 to a 2nd shop they have and the lads in there died. He said its a lovely car to drive and the engine is sweet. So now I have a list of items to work to.

That ECU hose has to be 1m long. Go to Halfrauds and buy a pack of Diesel injector run of line. its exactly 1m long by 3.4/3.5 mm internal diameter. Its a perfect fit. Also comes with Diesel injector blanking caps. Use these to blank of the lower throttle body nipple if you have removed the carbon canister.

I have a mocal cooler. 1/2" BSP fitting with 1 m of line all hooked up to a Mk1 Oilfilter mount. 1.5m of line should be fine. My cooler is mounted infront of the Rad. I dumped the original oil water heat exchange unit. Still got it in the shed. Will refit if it is needed.

Was it definitely boiling? Isn't the operating temperature of the fan switch slightly above boiling...like 105 degrees? If the fan works with shorted connections and the fan switch is new then I'd say it's fine. Is that stage 1 at that temp ? 105° where does stage 2 kick in? I guess just a bit worried about blowing the head ect. Such a lot of work in the last 4 months. MOT today!! The temp gauge would ne better if it was like a Ford Escorts. Where in the middle of the gauge it sez Normal haha

Hi. I have heard the fan run on last summer. The car has been off the Rd for the last 4 or so months being rebuilt. It goes for its MOT tomorrow. I have since replaced all engine temp switches. All VW originals. Now I can't seem to get my rad fan to come on when the engine is hot. That is in a further post. The rad switch has been replaced 3 times. Still no fan action. :?: :roll: Have asked on the forum but with little responce. Seems a difficult 1 to answer. If I short the fan it works on both speeds. No airlocks and the engine warms up fine..