2_Door_fun

Hi Mr Super of the charged.. So what are you saying there? That Poly hangers are no good on a g60..? I am aware that the old Stainless gets very hot.. Where did you read that Powerflex don't recommend the use of? Oh n what constitutes a Van centre? There seems to be a commercial vehicle dealer in trafford park in Manchester. Ta Muchly

Greetings. I got my calipers via flebay for £150. Discs n brackets from Seat dealer. The 305mm discs are 4 stud this is what the early Ibiza'a had. So perfectly suited to my 60. The Seat calipers are generic they fit many applictons as i said its the bracket that gives the car specific fitting. So you will find the same caliper on many cars. They don't have specific mounting lugs just holes that match to the brackets and the brakets fit the car. For the 327mm discs you will need Audi brackets or Seat Leon Brackets these had the same disc size. I so happen to have a pair of Audi/Seat brackets going spare. Brake lines came from Badger 5 click n see You can buy the whole kit from there. I just made mine from seperate components. Stop tastic brakes :clap:

HI. Yr much better off getting a brembo GT upgrade kit. I have just fitted a pair to my G60. Pair of Seat Ibiza Cupra R brackets and a pair of Ibiza Cupra R 305mm Disc's They are multi fit by virtue of the bolting points being the same and its the bracket that does the firring. Can get ya some shots if you want. Porsche link Ebay You could use the Porsche calipers they will fit to the Seat brackets. See here for a look on how to See here for a look on how close my calipers are to my Borbet 16's :shock: Deciding on removing 2mm from the disc's or move up to 17's haha.. Hope it helps Rob

My G60 is 4 stud so.. Can we still get said wheels? If not anyone know similar looking. I know OZ n Schmidt n Keskin and so on.. They do look likw Oz Futura's but its the exposed lugs I like. Any other ideas pref 16" willing to go to 17" on a push.. Cheers all.

oh this happened to me last night.... Refitting the newly chromed rocker cover :censored: Another cash out for the car then......

Hmmm Not really getting anywhere fast.. I've tried many versions of hangers and all ended up the same brittle, cracked and split. There is no way I can use standard hangers with the Scorpion system. Its gets way to hot and its way to heavy.. Plus the way the Scorpion is hung and bracket layout does not lend itself to using standard hangers. Esp on the Tailpipes. Its the large silencer that needs the support. I shall take a look at the chain based ones n maybe try the VW van versions.. I have used the nylon tie idea before so maybe return to that. :shrug:

I would agree.. I love the system and have never had a problem with it but the way its hung or as you say the bracket setup really could do with a revision I think. I have attached an illustration from the POWERFLEX site. My standard rubbers are like the EXH 006 model. These are just to small and stretch like hell the moment the exhaust hangs on its own weight. I have fitted the EXH 007 rings but as I said I had to unbolt the brackets from the car floor. I find its only the heavy silencer that is a problem. Maybe I'll try the cut to fit EXH 010... The only other way would be to spin on a couple of nuts and then refit the brackets then re-attach everything. This would lower the brackets thereby allowing the silencer to hang on the poly rings. The end result is the same the silencer would hang no lower than it would anyway. All fun n games

Hi all The old 60 is due to roll this coming week. So I am aware that my Scorpion system was eating rubbers like crazy. So I have just got hold of some poly rings used on a Mk2 Golf. These are indeed tough but not long enough to allow the 1st big silencer to hang its pressed against the floor of the car. I had to unbolt the brackets n fit the rings and then bolt it all up. Not hard job or anything but they are tougher than they look. I have read (on the web) some horror stories of poly hangers cusing welds to break n brackets to snap as there is just no give in them. So the question is what are you all using.... :help: The items you get from the local place are just not up to the job of the scorpions weight. ta muchly

Ta muchly. Crazy Daves are close but mine are closer.. Just paranoid about it.. Thermal expansion n all sorts on the web.. A little web knowledge is dangerous n all that.. Just dont fancy breaking hard n the caliper say expanding with heat n bedding its self in to the wheel wall :gag: Game on get some spacers orderd n I'm of for an MOT.. 18 months since the car was on the Rd.. :clap:

Took a couple of shots this evening... Can get a beer mat between caliper body n inner wheel. Take a look! Cheers

Wow 2 very nice cars there guys... :notworthy: Dec yr Brembo's look as mine do.. I agre I love braks squeezed in to the wheel. i'll grab a couple of shots tomorrow. by the loks of it a 3-5mm spacer shoulddo the trick.. More of a shim really. Cheers to both of ya for the time taken Rob

Ok its my daily drive... 40 miles each way to work.. (Glossop in the high peak) So my aircon is making unreal rattles I investigate today and find the compressor pulley is in bits.. The (what I call) spider at the front of the pulley is sheared off and spinning free and the rest of thr internals are bouncing round inside. The bearings are fine and so is the electro-magnet. If I press the AC button the rattles stop so all is magnatizing well. So its just a case of removing the main nut and popping off the bust bits and replacing with scrappy sourced bits.. So being as the spider is all sheared.....How does one remove said main nut to get all the bust bit off :nuts: As I try to jam the pulley the centre spindl still turns obviousley the nut is threaded to it.. In all this the actual pulley n belt is not moving. This is due to as we know its a kind of passive pulley til you turn on the AC. By Spider I mean the fron plate you can see it on this sourced shot of shiny new bit. I know you can use an AC clutch tool for this but it only works when all is on one piece I reckon. All responce greatfully received :notworthy:

Afternoon Dec. The spokes on the borbets are up against the caliper.. There is about 2mm clearence between the inner face of the wheel and the caliper body.. So saying that a 5mm spacer should allow free wheeling as it were.. However not to sure about the 2mm of space between wheel n caliper body :shock: There are some stick on balance weights that will have to go. So I guess those can be stuck on further out to the rear rim edge. I have spoken a length to Yalan (Alister, great bloke :notworthy: ) about the upgrade much good info from the chats and an Audi upgrade that I looked at a site he pointed me to. http://www.slybadger.com/cars/s2/brakedetail-new.htm This site is very interesting and detailed. Speaking of spinning the discsa on a lathe n the caliper mounts to bring the caliper inwards by a few mm. Any ideas? As a note: The seat bracket mounts that I have used are massive compared to others I have seen so don't know if I can huse other brackets n maybe spin the disc alone down? Cheers for the reply

So now I can do an endo upon pressing the stop pedal. :D Have a 23mm mater cylinder too :D Got of a USA Audi. Perfect fit, bolt off bolt on. I want new wheels. The car came with 16" Borbet C's...Which I do like and would really like to stay on a 16 wheel but it doesn't look like I'm gonna be able to. The Borbet's bolt on and thats about it :lol: No turn e turn, Caliper against the spokes. I did want a set of Brock B1's will they fit.. I have never really got to grips with offset n stuff.. Can build an engine but wheels :cuckoo: Keskin are another option or maybe Brock B2's... Oz futura would be nice too.. I don't mind going up to 17 the old C ran Oz Titan's but it was a tough ride. Any help is good as I am :shrug:

Got mine from Ebay too. As a note make sure you are buying a 'SPAL' not a 'AS SPAL' No need to buy a copy with prob cheap internals n bearings... Oh n go for a curved blade model. Much better than straight.. Look for Kenlowe and Pacet these are just as good, Kenlowe are awesome.

Morning Neil.. Just to let you know.. The Corrado lower support bar is to long for the Rallye outlet.. What is needed is the short bar that sadly was made obsolete April this year. Tried to get one today but no joy. So its adapting the old one or doing without. Rob

Hi. Mounted a 12" Spal at the weekend.. Kept all metal work. Removed junker from VW and ground of the mounts. Marked up the Spal n drilled 4 holes. 4 bolts 8 nuts n Bob yr errrrrr uncle as it were. This all on a G60 with front mounted Intercoler.

Hi. I don't drive the C for power or anything like I drive it cos its a great car.. Once fitted with the Golf Rallye front mount IC there is no other way to go. The IC runs the full front of the car and you need to spin the charge air down to it.. VW spent along time developing the IC so I reckon the U will do just fine.. After all it was a full blown rally car. However I do understand what you mean.. Previous cars have always been tinkered with Saab turbo's S1 & 3 RS Escorts and previous G60's.. first time I fitted the Rallye IC its been an adventure.

Afternoon to the Isle of Whiteness.. Yep those Yellow parts are on n heading for teh paint shop.. gasket is on had that for 6 months just struggled to find a U bend. Is that yr bumper I saw on Ebay a week or two back?

No need. Fitted a slim line fan. dumped the old bit of junk.. Shiny SPAL siting there now.

Morning all. At last I have an original outlet minus bolts... So my Etos disc is no longer working :shrug: Does anyone know what I need to mount it up I know its a few bolts but anything else.. Part No's or a diagram. Cheers

I know of folks who have wet n dried the charger outlet and the 'U' bend and then used some silicone and all has been well. Could be an idea.. I reckon some sturdy Gasket paper will do fine. The stuff my old man used to use on pipe flange's at ICI.. Find a fitter and they will get some propper sturdy stuff.

Morning to the Dinkus. Yes I know the price of the plate its unreal....With my Blue G60 I went to price one it came in at £1300+VAT or so... No one had ever ordered one....REALLY :cuckoo: Click link for story Oh well its a run to the scrappers on Sat to hunt for an old VW n see what I can find. Anyone know if this armature was used on other VW's :shrug: Cheers

Well it never rains and so on.... This week I have had all the injectors cleaned and back flushed plus new fuel filter also a new injector harness purchased from the local dealer :censored: Yes it cost a bit! The old one was in a state. So all the parts are in and last night after work I set to rebuilding it all... An Hr later the old G60 roared in to life and I was chuftyyyyy... Then the bloody Throttle cable armature claw snapped :censored: :bad-words: .. So does anybody have a spare one I may purchase or do you know if the same model of claw is available on another VW say a Golf or Jetta??? I do have a spare but it lacks the lower arm the clicks against the Idle micro switch. There is no part No on the bust switch so i presume it only comes as part of a complete Throttle plate? As ever cheers all.

Well after being sent 2 incorrect dizzys...I did yesterday finally get the one for the 60. Fitted it in moments and started up the car.. All fired up well aside from.... My oil light is now blinking and interestingly my oil pressure gauge is reading 0 :shock: The gauge read fine prior to removing the dizzy n stuff... Why would this be? I realise the bottom gearing on the dizzy links into the oil pump via a notch in cog plus the cog links to the aux shaft which the charger belt runs. So question is will the dizzy sit in place even if the oil pump notch is not lined up???? The car has been on no run at all for at least 5 weeks. Fitted new starter and release bearing plus the Dizzy and a Rallye IC so loads of work done. Maybe the engine or something has stuck closed. Other gauges in the centre console are working fine. I'll pull the Dizzy tomorrow n check its aligned just pondering on the above. Any ideas folks?