quicky1980

what spec vband do you need, i may be able to pick one up at work. Why do you think it broke? They are pretty strong. Let me see if i can get the vagcom sorted, if im still struggling, a hand would be good. plus would be great to meet up. ---------- Post added at 9:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:01 PM ---------- oh forgive me, Ive re read your comment, the band itself gave way and not the clamp. gotcha.

J was the transition. Mines a J and did have bits and bobs from early and late

seriousely where the heck do you get these nuggets of gold from! Ive tried loads of times to get vag com to work and have always struggled. So to answer your question, not I havent. Plus I wouldnt know where to begin. I'm away thins weekend but will try and sort out the laptop and cable to get a proper scan etc. You dont fancy meeting up in return for petrol money and some beer tokens do you? lol

use the engine hoist just to allow you to remove the frame, and put large blocks of wood under the engine to support it while the frames away. dont bother with the brace without the wings fitted.

Actually looking again, the material for where the brace sits on doesnt have the support from the outer wing. This could cause problems. Can you put the wings back on to help give structural stability and also help stop it from falling off the edge if it were to move. or just get an engine hoist.

I asked for it to be set up for 2 lambdas ie just the fronts. But the error codes are still showing so am a bit confused with that. SWICT did say that the rears have been deleted so not sure whats going on tbh. Best way to describe my issue is that the engine feels like its hitting a hard engine speed limiter. But at 2500rpm!! The one that gets me is the crank-cam position correlations P0016 and P0018 which looking on google gives me cause of concern as they all say cam chain stretch!! eek! I'm hoping this is an error code thats generally thrown up like the vr's do when not running. The cam correlation seems to be the only real culprit but I could be miles off. I would change the cam sensors but at £80+ quid from TPS each its not a cheap check and may not fix the issue. I disconnected the cam sensors from the car last night and started the car, didnt start (kind of expected that) then plugged one back in and started the car up, but the running issue was there so tried the other sensor after disconnecting the first sensor and its still the same issue. Even tried with maf disconnected (but cam sensors fitted) and this didnt fix it. But am i right in saying the maf only works at operating temp? I've never noted an engine note change or running issue with this connected or not before this latest fault. plus no errors have come up so doubt this is at fault?

Nice, Im chuffed to hear that as Ive just ordered a 600D myself. Look forward to taking shots, hope they come close to what youve taken

Lovely pics mate, what camera and lens' did you use?

ok, tbh I think its a fair price as I've been keeping an eye on the market and these seem to go for more than I'm asking. The wheels are in good condition and wouldnt need powder coating. Just the lips polishing. But if you want prestine then yes, they would need stripping back and painting/polishing but that may be ideal if your changing the colour etc. Obviously new bolts too. I just need to clear some space, but if the price cant be had then I may just end up using them as track day wheels. Shame as they may end up getting damaged during storage. Where are you based as I tend to travel around and may be able to meet you somewhere.

yes they are

yeah thats fine bud

Plus you havent shown the weak area of these seats, the drivers seat and bolsters. GLWS though

[ATTACH=CONFIG]55821[/ATTACH] Are you wearing crocs?! :pukeleft: lol

Having some issues with the running of the 24v and could do with some help. Car start and idles fine, and very light throttle up to 2000rpm and is also fine however applying more throttle causes the engine to misfire dramatically enough to not allow revs to hit 3000rpm or above. The misfire almost feel/act like a de-rate and has occasional backfire. I fitted brand new audi coils x 6 last year and a new water temp sensor too so doubt its these. A scan was carried out after clearing and faults and then again once the engine started up, see attached. Some are expected due to the install but have no idea which are real issues or phantom ones and more importantly which could be causing the problems. Any help would be great. ecm scan.txt

Ok, I had that one in my hands yestersday so should be nice a quick to find again, pack and send. Will PM you the details once all packed ready.

sorry mate, forgot to take off the slave cyliner as it sold a while back. which sensor do you need, i have two but not sure if they do the same job.

Hate to say it Jay, but I told you so :ignore:

bump

dropped to £190, come on people. Need this out of the way now.

price drop to £170

sounds silly, but can the removed alternator be tested somehow? Maybe an electric drill fitted somehow to spin it up. That way you could check it off the engine and check if its alternator fault or wiring?? I'm hoping that I didnt damage the alternator I sent you during removal. :scratch:

need to clear some space so am open to offers.

need to clear some space so open to sensible offers.

LOL! Deffinately not splits.

good question, no idea tbh. Will have a look at the wheel again and see if there are any hints. Are you interested in buying?