quicky1980

congrats mate on the new addition, also great to know that a high mileage rado still can out do more modern cars.

should bgoing to this with fewother guys. we're planning on traveling down the night before

i have a full late spec on sale in the classifieds section

As long as the complete rear seats are mint (including the parts that faces the boot) then Ill take them. I can collect on the way home to peterborough in a day or so. pm me your contact details. I may even take the door cards

what condition are the rear seats? looking for some mint versions

I've started a awd conversion. It's planned for 500hp, with a late interior. Ill sell it when its done........in 2080 ;-)

very nice

I have 2 rear wishbone bushes from vw and are unused. I'll take offers as I no longer need them

still hoping that these can be made without the indicator holes. will be needing them in 2012 for sure.

Damn, I should have read this earlier as I have a pair of unused vw rear bushes for sale!

lovely story, so happy you've managed to gt it back and for it to be an r32 must be brilliant for you! Keep us posted.

not sure, but am interested in this too.

Will check my hub carriers, I think they have the bj's still fitted.

Just got mine, thanks Meth, really happy with it

Its probably to late to say but have you put a "do not bend" comment on the packaging?

zw1 as standard are et60 so yor 25mm spacers would give you et35. Im et30 (20mm ZW & 10 H&R mm spacers) and et35 (25mm ZW spacer). 205/40/17 Falken Ziex ZE-912tyres with 8" rims, no trouble with rubbing but I have rolled the arches.

i seem to remember using vr6 hubs on 16v wishbones. but would like someone to confirm. I had a thought on the way home from work about shifting the bearing up, if this is a problem when the suspension droops, how do the dropped hubs off the other models work. this got me wondering if the fix is to shift the strut mount up sufficiently to clear the out cv then have the suspension take up the difference, or does this risk the suspension travel?

They should be fine as they were taken off the vr block that ran well. PM on it's way

Glad to have a tool as clever as you involved lol. thanks for putting the effort into this, I could have tried myself but I have limited ProE experience so would have took soooo much longer to get anywhere even remotely close. hence why we may need to use the 16v ball joint, other option is to have a key on the inside of the bje that rests into the tip of the bj itself (maybe a modded ball joint tip to match the key).

bump

If you check out my build thread I have beige door cards and seats, but the rest is black,

Thanks for clarifying, must of missed some previous posts. The only thing I would suggest is if the top part of the bje has "wings" that fold up and wrap around the hub to stop the BJE from rotating during assembly or use (admittedly the friction would be sufficient for the later). I was thinking a clamped lower half like the current 16v bje, and use 16v ball joints in place of the vr6 ones. this would avoid the need to have a space in the bje for the nut and access. the upper half of the vr6 bje would compensate for the changes to the lower half.

I think I may have lost track a while back on this, but is the model of the hub a modified version or a copy of the original setup? If its a modified version I would kindly ask for an overlay to see the difference as Im struggling to visualise the modifications. I thought the direction being taken was to effectively raise the position of the bearing and hub flange in relation to the hub itself, or did this cause packaging concerns? This would avoid the requirement for BJE. Sorry again if Im being dull.

I got mine of ebay germany too, if you check out my build thread I should the before and after work. iirc spacer are 20 and 30mm and the wheels are 8", 215 wide tyres but could be wrong so will try and check for you. What corrado are they being fitted to? Mine is 16v rear beam and vr6 fronts

mine..