quicky1980

cheers for the link. some how I dont think Ill be doing it easily over a weekend. I suppose if I built up the mount on a spare subframe then its posssible as a weekend job.

have you got any pics of the box installed, would like to see how much change i need to do for the mounts. I work in the engineering trade so shouldnt be too hard to copy yours and the shafts. May even look into making a kit for other rado lovers.

when i fitted the cv's back on i didnt know for sure which way around the springs clips should go, due to one side being cupped. Do you guys reckon that the vr/16v is ok and just needs the cv's sorting?

I know that the outer cv joints are different on both the 16V and VR shafts. But say if I had VR6 shafts and fitted 16V outer cv's would it work? I ask because thats the setup I have on my car at the moment, VR6 engine into vr6 gearbox into vr6 inner cv's into vr6 shaft into 16v outer cv into 16v hubs. The hubs are pressed into vr6 uprights. I did this to keep the 4 stud wheels and use mk4 brakes, but ever since the conversion I get a knocking sound which I think is coming from the cv joints. Now before I fit new cv's I need to know if this is a tried method, and that fitting new cv's will cure the knockin or that it will always be there due to the setup. i have all the VR6 gear to convert the car to 5stud, but will only do that once I find some 5 stud wheels i like and can afford. Also whats the worst that can happen to the drive shafts if the knocking carried on for a while? thanks

cheers corradosyncro. Ive put plans on hold as I need to use the car daily for now. What Im thinking of doing is getting all the parts together and do the conversion done over a weekend. The major hold up are the gearbox mounts, I would need to copy someones, or get one done. If you could find out the price of adjusted shafts that would be good. Just to make sure, this is for a vr6 conversion.

vag-com doesnt always throw up a faulty sensor. Just put everything off the old blown up engine onto thte new engine (ALL the sensors and manifold) then try it again.

if its a non vr6 engine, you may only be able to read abs faults. someone might correct me on that soon

I had a similar headache with a conversion. OBDII (golf engines) will not work with corrado's. As far as I know you have 2 options, convert the car to obdII and have the benefits or convert to obdI and keep it standard. Converting to obdII i would think needs a new loom from the engine to the fursebox and ecu. also will need a obdII ecu. this should be the easiest job but runs the risk of buying broken second hand or even new parts. Converting to obdI you need swap over all your parts from your old engine. intake manifold, sensors, wires and possibly the cams (not sure if they are the same between the golf's and rado's) the benefit of this is that you know all the parts worked on the old engine and you have all the parts. disadavantage is its an older system Just another note. buy VW parts not third party parts. I learnt the hard way that new parts from third party dealers may not work properly and will send you running in circles. hope this helps *************just looked up the obd2 conversions, it looks quite complicated so maybe best choice for you is to convert to obd1???. look it up viewtopic.php?f=1&t=58967&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=obd+2 ****************

Any pictures available?

i think, so check this, but vr shafts are the same as 16v. the difference is just the cv joints. again check this because my cv's are playing up so i think i may have mismatched

im guessing that the shiny shaft may have been made by the previouse owner? I would personally source the correct part, cheap enough 2nd hand esp the 16v version

tried swappin just the blades and it makes no difference. i havent changed the arms but if both are juddering i doubt it will make a difference, will it? Im really tempted to bend the arms but dont want to mess it up. Am I the only one with bad juddering on the wipers?

they shudder both ways and any wiper speed. really embarrasing when I have passengers. I dont think the motor is at fault. I did notice that the worse wiper (passengers side) when it gets half way up the screen, only the outer edges of the wiper touches the screen, the centre lifts completely of the windscreen

Ive been reading a few posts where people are saying that their lupo wipters judder when being used. Ive had this problem since fitting them and have even renewed the wiper linkage to hopefully stop the problem. Im starting to think its the wiper blades not getiing either enough pressure or too much pressure. Does anyone know how to sort it? Im tempted to bend the wiper arms in towards the windscreen, but would rather get other peoples ideas first. Ive read about the TT arms working better, so if these still judder after "tweaking" they will be swapped because the juddering is driving me nuts!

You could try taking the whole assembly off, ie hubs, and driveshafts. and place the hub into a large heavy vice thats clamped down. Put bolts into two holes and clamp tight. then try with a large lever

Best way is with the wheels on the ground and the handbrake on. Then use a 3/4 inch socket and bar, preferably a big long breaker bar. I used a medium sized socket bar and a long length of scafolding pole. Even then it's a nightmare to crack the nut, the whole car will tend to move!! If the hub is off the car i would recommend taking it to a garage and asking them nicely to do it for you.

thats what i was hoping the answer would be. thanks. should be ok now. will be using the vacuum locking option i think

i already have the instructions but Im confused more about how to find a +ve and a -ve trigger for the allarm. +ve is easy, will use the wire that lights up the interior light. but -ve trigger im not so sure what to use

can anyone help??

After driving back from stealth, where I had new coil pack/MAF/ECU/Lambda probe fitted I came to a junstion and waited. The car then missfired (popping sound), looked in my mirror and saw a big ploom of smoke coming from my exhaust. According to my girlfriend who was following in her car, it only happened that once and was very brief but noticeable. I thought nothoing more of this and assumed it to be the ECU reseting itself somehow, but today it happened again. What could be the cause, should I be worried. Best description is as if it was a burst of fumes from a diesel under hard acceleration. Car works fine otherwise, only noticeable problem is it sometimes takes a while for the engine to start while cranking. This is my first VR so dont know the usual symptoms any help welcome Thanks

I had a look at the car on the weekend, raised the car up completely off the ground and put load on the uprights so that the springs where compressed. Rotated all the wheels and didnt hear anything abnormal to point out my problem. So Im stuck. All I know is that there is a rubbing, "rasping", nocking sound coming from front (80% sure) that gets louder as I accelerate. Doesnt change in sound when breaking or cornering. Could it be a gearbox problem???? Im really stuck for ideas

I havent had chance to check the wiring but I did find out the slow wiper function comes on, and not the intermitant if that helps?

still need help here

its on a corrado vr6, if i remember right the intermitant wipers come on, either that or its the slow wipe. Ill double check. Will be looking at the wiring tomorrwo and will pay attention to looking in the boot hatch joint, to see if theres a short there.

anyone?