Storm Guy

Absolutely fascinating, nice collection and top pics - great to see something from the other side of the world!

That'd be me -:), thanks. That looked a nasty dented rear panel - hope its booked in soon. What happened?

Know exactly what you mean. The thread is visible to others - If you look at Today's Posts you'll see your thread. I think there is something odd, or something I haven't found in the settings that makes new posts in threads youve posted in not visible to the poster, or even edited ones (just checked:))-noticed it only recently.

Top of page > Forum actions > General settings > left side, Edit Avatar (pic), Edit Signature (your 'tag' lines). HTH

Just out of interest really - an informative site for porsche.....http://www.944racing.de/felgengewichte.php ZW1 of course available as 4 x 100, but as already stated relatively rare.

Yep - take out a headlight and youll soon see the extent of the 'bar'. Any pics as to how dented it actually is? Good job he's paying.

Yep - subzero!... But I would say that.

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?59702-VR6-Battery-recommendations-search-not-playing-nicely&p=759227#post759227

That's basically it, but as said maybe pot luck - Nottingham branch very good indeed. Local VW dealership even suggested I might as well go direct to them instead of coming to the parts counter. Some of the guys were very much into Cs.

Tapatalk..hth

Welcome http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/ Register and find what you need. Also digital workshop manuals around. Companies for parts or what?

As dragon green states above, best option in this scenario may be to use the Celotex solid board (of appropriate thickness depending on your void to allow ventilation). Cut it into lengths dependant on how much space you have to work with in the loft area - You should be able to slide the pieces down, cut to suit the rafter spacings. Use a stiff wire/rod with a simple L shape bend at the end to allow you to either push them gently in place, or stop the first one falling all the way to the eaves. Carefully turn the wire/rod to remove, always checking that you stay away from the felt. Unless roof work has been carried out, the felt may be very fragile. Test a piece but hopefully there shouldn't be too much friction, dependant on the upper surface of the ceiling board (not exactly sure what the make up was back in '48!). The wire will allow you to gauge length. Ideally screw some dowels or similar at the lowest end of the slope (and skim to finish as appropriate etc) to retain the boards. Or simply anchor the first (lowest boards with screws).

Yes there is insulation you can spray on / in, that seals and insulates but without a proper survey and proper installer wouldn't recommend it. Not sure of your ceiling heights but you may want to consider an insulated plasterboard lining throughout if you have no problem with headheight (which may be the case for a 1948 house). Otherwise I'd do a strip and proper job, though of course cost and practical issues come into play.

Nottingham and surrounds - well and truly under now, started this afternoon around 4pm. This evening on the way home (not in C), one ambulance on its side, with another in attendance and 3 cop cars at Radcliffe on Trent/A52. Chaos on A46 new roundabout with cars stuck getiing up the hill. Love the snow, but not when I have to take the C out in it. You can be as careful as you like - its those others :(

See here also...http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?58046-Strange-stalling-problem

Mine did exactly the same back in 2006 - changed the damper - 021133429A, smoothe ver since. Yes its embarassing.

Any Good? Been sitting in my spares box from my old VR6 IIRC for a few years now. PM sent.

Depends exactly what you want to do. If you are wanting to just remove the spoiler for painting for ex, then just - Lift spoiler, remove the two hext bolts that hold the actual spoiler to the mount (on the sliding arms), and carefully remove spoiler. To remove mounts (plastic guides) - youd want to do this for ex if your doing a full clean of the motor and cable assembly, in which case you'd...do the above, then remove the 4 bolts that hold the two rubber encased gaskets down to the bracket mount on the underside (2 per gasket). Undo the long brass nuts/ bolts which hold the bracket mount to the galvanised strucrural bar. Remove the motor and cable sleeves, careful that linear gears don't drop out. Take pics every stage. HTH

Looks like a great example with some very nice extras- congrats.

Welcome!

Correct Critical Mass..... Ok Guys - Just wanted to get this clear for myself so just called up Aviva again. Ive said it before and I'll say it again - I hate talking to operators who mislead customers!!! The nice chap at Aviva has confirmed that if youre fully comp and have the permission of the owner you can drive and are covered third party only. So a bit p-ssed that the last guy told me otherwise, as I had to rely on someone else for the airport trip up to manchseter a few weeks back. What Stonejag stated in his first paragragh, last sentence, basically summed it up.... The Aviva chap told me the 'telephone policy' when people ring up is to say NO your not covered (as then everyone would be driving others cars third party) - I explained the query and he clarified that if you are FC, you are legally covered 3rd party. So don't take no for an answer an interrogate the operator if needed!

Not sure of the exact wording of your or your ops mans policy, but I recently wanted to drive my Dad's car and take him to the airport in his car. He's Fully comp (inc business use) in his car, so am I on mine (inc business use) - but thought I'd check with my Insurance (aviva) if I'm covered third party driving his car. What you describe seems to be the commonly thought principle. BUT according to Aviva you can only drive a car in an emergency situation and be covered third party (driving to the airport, even on a day or so's notice is not classed as an emergency, as there is deemed to be sufficient time to notify ins co.). I was advised that my Dad's policy would need me as a named driver. So unless all staff are named/'permitted' drivers on the certificate, you will (as already stated above) not be covered for damage to the driven vehicle, and may well not even be covered 3rd party. Your ops manager needs to check (and show you to safeguard you) his insurance policy's section re 'Liability of other persons driving or using Your Car" - (and what conditions do not apply!)

A slightly longer but neater job -but I always like things reversible, so rather than screws direct into the plastic housing and spolier support, just stick in a suitable disc/washer and metal rod or bar bent to suit - easy as the assembly hasn't been fitted yet. Lift spoiler, and put the rod in each mount to stop it retracting (the marked up photo is diagrammatic, the rod will of course be longer to lift the spoiler to the max, otherwise you'll need a rod above and below the projecting pin, or a bar drilled with a hole to receive the pin at the correct height). No need for the motor or structural bar, just the 2 mounts fixed direct to the u/s boot with the 4 bolts. Suggest you use ss bolts longer than stock and a locknut on the end, otherwise the captive nut may crack the housing at some point in the future. JM2C.

http://www.rh-alurad.de/felgen.aspx?designbilderid=23&designid=23&farbausfuehrungid=7&fp=23 Some very good used ones can also be found on German ebay. HTH Those from Ireland have been there since last year. Think there is only one available, and that was the situation last Aug IIRC.

Arrived today - outstanding mate! Thanks again for your kind help.