Henny

it's not illegal to adjust the reading of a milage counter to make it correct for your car... I'm having mine done soon (when I get my arse in gear and send it off) for J-DUB so she finally shows the correct milage, not the one that's 120K miles too few... :roll: Second hand sets of clocks go for between 20 and 40 quid depending on milage, you WILL need G60 clocks though, as they're different from the other models... Drop chargedupstorm a PM if you need 'em altering... ;) BUT: before you do that, check the simple things, like the multiplug on the back of the clocks is plugged in fully, the wires coming off that are all OK, and the connectors on the back of the fusebox are all in securely... ;) I reckon that may cure the faults... 8)

IIRC, the ECU only needs to see 10V for a very small amount of time to switch into limp mode, after which it's in Limp mode until you restart the system (ooh, it's like rebooting a car! :lol: ) If you have a problem with your battery, IMHO, it's entirely possible that it's dropping enough voltage for the alternator to struggle when first started and idling to drop the voltage to under 10v for a second or so, which will cause limp mode to be instated... :|

unlikely to be a single valve if the compression is the same on all cylinders... 8) AFAIK the only way to test the valves is to take 'em out and inspect 'em for true-ness... :|

Dan? Have you got a problem with BOTH your brake warning lamp AND your oil pressure lamp? sounds to me like you may have a fault on your instrument cluster... ;) Get an oil pressure gauge and check that it's within spec before you go spending lots on a new oil pump... 8)

normal fuel line WILL NOT take the pressure that the K-JET system works on and you'll pop the lines in next to no time... (voice of bitter experience from younger and more stupid days! ;) :oops: ) As Kev says, get some braded ones off a Golf GTI 16V, they clean up nicely and don't tend to wear as badly as the solid plastic ones they used on the Corrados... 8)

ok, so if you don't have the wear indicators, then there's only 2 things that should turn on the light: the handbrake switch or the fluid level switch. Disconnect BOTH and see if the light stays on. Short the 2 pins on the fluid level connector (wiring end!) and see if that turns the light on/off, if that makes no difference when the handbrake's switch is disconnected and NOT earthed, then you have a wiring problem somewhere and it's time to start tracing wires... :| Hopefully it'll just be a dodgy sensor on the brake fluid, or something obvious around the handbrake switch which is causing the problem... 8)

woah, that looks stunning... I've always had a little soft spot for the CRX, and this looks like a really nice example now... 8)

sounds like your rear axle bushes may have given up... get it up on ramps and see if they're shot or not... ;)

Geoff still going then?!? Woah! I first used GT-Autospares back in 1992! :| Has he still got the double decker bus as his office? :lol: Wizard's not far off the truth, this guy used to know what bit of ANY VW would fit any other... 8) I'll have to have a tootle over there sometime soon to sort out my moonroof problem (the grey car's not got one! :lol: )

Rpmayne, yeah they are, I was under the impression that when they went they tended to punch a hole through the diff housing, I'd never thought that they may punch a hole internally... :oops:

if all you're after is big power numbers for as little effort as possible, then yeah, the 1.8T swap is probably the way to go... If you're after something a little different with some individuality and plenty of power, then doing something interesting to a G60, be it 8V, 16V, 20V or X-Flow, is the way to go.... It may not be cheaper, but it'll be yours and pretty much as unique as you want it to be... 8)

I thought that Black was for the gauge, Blue was for the ECU and yellow wasn't used unless you had air-con?!? Dead gauge and dead black sensor would seem to back this up too... Check that your water level IS spot on in the header tank, it doesn't need to be a lot lower for it to put the light on. You may wish to test that it's not a wiring fault by disconnecting the multiplug on the header tank and seeing if there's any difference on the dash. You could then short out the 2 pins in the wiring connector and see if that makes the light go on/off (don't know if it's designed to make contact if it's too low, or if it's correct) Good luck! 8)

they're more time consuming than difficult to do... I did a spare one for J-DUB after my original one that 16VG60 did for me broke (not due to John's work, due to the fact it had 250,000 miles of use on it! :lol: ) I used John's work as a template for roughly what I was doing and just went at it with my dremmel! :lol: Make sure you clean it all up thoroughly afterwards though, as metal particles getting into your boost return system WON'T do your charger any favours, never mind when it gets into the cylinders/pistons/rings... :|

to me, it sounds more like you've knocked a tooth off one of the cogs and it's floating around inside the box jamming it up every now and then... :|

Thanks to Tattie, for the C pillar and rear roof trims... 8) Very happy once I'd managed to hack my way through all the bubble wrap! :lol:

MKIII 16V is supposed to be as strong as the G60 box and have better ratios than the original G60 one, but I've yet to see anyone show that the internals WILL take the extra horses the G60 kicks out over the 16V over time.... :? I have no idea about the 20VT ratios, but they're definately built to easily take the abuse a G60 could throw at it... 20V none T boxes, again, I have no idea about, but I'd guess that they're also better built than G60 boxes as they're somewhat newer... Personally? I'd probably stick in another G60 box as you can pick 'em up pretty cheaply... Give Mike at Golfnutz a ring and see what he's got in stock, he may well have what you're looking for, or know where you can get one... 8) Are you absolutely sure it's the diff? normally when they go they punch a rather large obvious hole in the outer casing and drop gear oil everywhere... :|

what? you mean it looks like a Leon? :roll: :lol:

I know of at least 4 owners who can testify that the PG and 1H engines ARE interference no matter what any of the books say! Some of the garage manuals say they are, some say they're not... There's 2 people here in the last 2 posts who can prove they are! :lol:

Cai? Turbo diesel gearbox will have completely the wrong gear ratios for a G60... :|

"pretty much the same" ?!? Erm, they're either 4/5 x 100 or they're not.... The center bore size difference can be overcome with some spiggot rings to suit as long as the hole is bigger than standard... 8) No idea on the bolt seat shape though... :|

Cheers gibber! :lol: I've attached a better one of me and my missus (Sharon) below... 8) So am I the only Mod to have met all the rest of the mods? :? Kev, Inters 2004 Jim, quite a few times Dom (Dinkus), MK meet Tom (Vr6), Inters 2004 Andi, Inters 2004 Steve (supercharged), Stealth rolling road session 2004 Stevemac, quite a few times now Nige (G60Jet), SBES 2004 Me, duh! :lol:

really?!? I'll be careful with that then! :lol: 8)

allow wheel paint... ;) straight silver stuff, you can get it at most car parts shops cheap, and it's heat and oil resistant once dry... 8)

Blue_Joe, difficult to say exactly as I did it a slightly odd way with John doing the block/crank/piston work and then me putting the rest of it together after I picked it up... Have a word with him and he'll give you prices... 8)

Blue_Joe, how are you going to get 1984cc? To do that takes some pretty serious re-engineering of the block and the removal of the oil squirters which keep the piston crowns cool... I'd be interested in some info on this conversion if you have any 'cos I'm considering doing something odd to my spare G60 engine and my MKI Golf once I've swapped the 1940cc one into my grey Corrado...