Henny

2 main earth straps on a G60. One from the thottle body to where the coil mounts to the bulkhead and the MAIN earth from the battery to the gearbox (via the chassis) There's also 3 brown wires which connect to the top bolt of the water flange on the side of the head which are pretty important to the running of the car... 8)

ugh :pukeright: Glad you got off so lightly... those things have got to weigh quite a bit... :|

I think I may be doing mine either next weekend or the weekend after that... mine'll be a little more involved though as I'll be swapping the engine, gearbox, ECU and brakes as well! :cuckoo: :lol:

the job is VERY similar to the MKII golf in how you do it, the only bit that differs is the gear linkage as it's cable, not rod operated... Personally, I'd get a Haynes for a Passat (88-92) as they're almost identical in how to get the box out... ;)

moved... 8)

it's dirt cheap from VW anyway... just go there and you'll be sure you're getting the correct stuff then... 8)

you'll probably find your insurance company won't be too keen to renew your insurance afterwards too... ;) My vote? Nah, they look naff....

VW do sell it, but it's off a roll, so you're best off buying 110cms and trimming it to exactly 100cm yourself so that you're 100% that some muppet hasn't trimmed it too short! ;) :lol: The internal diameter is 3.5mm 8)

TrakM8 8) Excellent little device ;) I've got the MKI version in my car and it's a god send... I know that if anyone ever car-jacks me, I can just give 'em my keys and walk away..... to the nearest phonebox where I can call the car and kill the engine, phone the police and let them know where it is so they can go and get the jackers! 8) :lol: The MKII version is smaller, neater and has GPRS so it's slightly cheaper to run if you want to do real time tracking of the vehicle via the internet! 8) I paid around £350 for mine and then fitted it myself... oh, and there's no subscription fees other than topping up the pay-as-you-go sim card inside it 8)

aye, with Kev here... it's the TORQUE available through the rev range that's critical as to whether the VR6 gets beaten or not... The VR6 has bags of torque from reasonably low down in the rev range thanks to it's 2.9 capacity... a 1.8T is never going to give the same torque characteristics without either having some serious turbo lag, a capacity increase or a silly BHP figure... J-DUB gave a few much higher BHP cars one hell of a scare (and some serious wastings too!) due to the torque being silly from Wayyyy low down in the rev range meaning that I didn't have to be at high revs all the time and screaming the engine to get any more pull, you just floored it and off she went... ;)

Lloyd, that'd just throw your speedo readings out and slightly mess up your gearing... ;)

I'm with Woody here, to pull away from a VR6 in a G60 upto 60 you need to mod the gearbox or put some serious engine work... However, put in the gearbox work and a little engine work and it's all over for the VR6! :lol: ;) mid-range, it's a bit closer with a mildly modded G60 being pretty close (if not quicker) on the 30-70 (and above ;) ) speeds which miss being short changed by the naff second gear as both require the same number of gearchanges... Top end, the VR6 tends to have a better flat out speed due to the torque characteristics of the larger capacity engine...

True, but they only take a day or so to come into stock once you've ordered it and at least the car is still drivable when the clip's not fitted... ;)

yup

lift up the surround around the gear knob (pull up where the Karmann badge is) You can then see the gear lever mechanism. I'll bet that on the left hand side of the pivot for the forwards/backwards movement there's no circlip... ;) The little clip is supposed to stop the lever from sliding along it's pivot, but it often comes off/breaks and so the lever gains a large amount of side to side travel as it slides where it's not supposed to... Good news is that the clip is about 20p from VW! 8)

clutch kit includes: Pressure plate Friction plate Release bearing thingy (more of a plate than a bearing in these gearboxes) Release bearing clip 2CCs release arm has a bend and crack in it that shouldn't be there... This tends to occur when people rest their foot on the clutch pedal while driving which keeps constant pressure on the release arm and eventually will kill both the arm and the clutch... The slave cylinder is easy to change over, the only tricky bit is bleeding it as you need someone to pull and push on the pedal as you open/close the bleed nipple... It will not bleed properly with an "easy bleed" kit... ;) Good luck! 8)

the only problem with the gearbox mount is the fact that the ABS pump limits access somewhat... Rear engine mount can be an utter **** to get at Front's pretty easy on all 4cylinder models, but IIRC is a little more tricky on the VR due to the larger radiator and twin fans...

Gav's looms have 2 relays, one for main beam and one for dipped. This means that the lighting on BOTH settings is VASTLY improved and that generally, you'll be able to see where you're going for a change! :lol: The loom described on the first page was only a main beam upgrade, but if you double the parts in there, you can wire up the dipped beam too... ;) Oh, and there's sod all point doing the sidelights as they're pants no matter what you do to 'em 'cos the bulb is sooooo small! :lol:

whoever told you £7-800 for a headgasket is either a main dealer or a rip-off merchant! :| You're looking at half that from a specialist... 8) Anyway, check around all of the water pipes in the engine bay for "snail trails" which are left by slight leaks. Also replace the expansion tank cap (the bit where you fill up the coolant from) as these have a seal in them which is known to give up over time and cause slight leaks of steam which won't leave much (if any) evidence of the leak... 8)

In J-DUB I had, Infinity basslink = £120 JBL 6x4 co-ax rears = £40 JBL component fronts = £90 (Infinity speakers are around 10 to 20 quid more, but do sound slightly nicer) Run the 2 sets of speakers off your head unit and spend the rest on sound deadening and you'll have a really nice sounding system... 8) The Alpine head unit has a nice amplifier in it, why bother with an extra amp unless you're running mega powerful/loud/hi-quality speakers? 8)

It's thanks to joebloggsVR69 here... 8) I just resized it and added the red cross! ;)

yup, sounds like a clutch on it's way out to me... You may find that bleeding the clutch slave will help slightly, but it's likely that this will only help for a little while... If it's any consolation, mine's doing the same... :roll: :lol:

you don't even need to remove 'em to paint 'em... you won't get the best finish in the world, but it'll still look better than the 10 to 15 years of crud that's on most of 'em now... ;) Spray 'em with brake cleaner, Wire brush 'em, leave 'em to dry and attack with your choice of paint... Job's a good'un... 8)

Snap-on sells 'em, but they sure as hell ain't cheap... I just use maul grips and replace 'em with jubilee clips! :lol:

Camber, not chamber... it's how the front wheels sit in relation to the vertical. It needs re-setting at a garage with the proper measuring equipment, similar to setting up the tracking on your car... 8)