Henny

nope, they have their own earth, so the earth strap won't make a blind bit of difference to them... ;)

OK, so after messing about last weekend, I've scrapped the idea I had about putting in an analogue boost gauge into the rev counter... no matter how I tried to do it, it looked odd and not OEM.... ....so I'm making myself a DIGITAL LCD boost gauge to go into the rev counter instead! :D 8) Pics when I get some... all of the parts arrived this morning though! 8)

to do a head gasket on a KR engine you need: 1x haynes manual for a MKII Golf (covers the KR engine) 1x Head gasket set (preferably from VAG, but the GSF ones aren't bad) 10x head bolts several plasters 1x exhaust to downpipe gasket several more plasters 1x cambelt (you may as well change it while it's in bits!) 1x cambelt tensioner Oil G12+ You'll also need to take the head somewhere to get it checked for true-ness and to skim it if needed, else you'll just blow the new headgasket not long after you start the car up... :|

I take that as high praise indeed... Thanks Daz... 8)

well, IMHO, you just need to look at the filter properties to realise that a paper filter is ALWAYS going to be better than a straight cotton based one as it's a much finer filter. The difference comes in when you oil the cotton filter and that makes it a much closer fight... I use a K&N purely out of laziness reasons... I make sure that I clean it and re-oil it yearly which should mean that I don't loose much (if any) filtering properties over a paper one, but don't have to change the paper one 4 times in that year... ;)

Right, I'm pretty sure that radiator will be slightly taller than your existing radiator. Best bet is to measure it and see. If it's the same, use the one you got with the intercooler as the bottom drivers side mount will be in the correct place (unlike the Corrados one... :roll: ) If you place the intercooler in front of the car so it's sat facing the way it will be in the car (with the rad behind it! ;) ), on the right of it at the front near the top, you'll see a big "fin" that sticks up at the top and out at the front. This needs to be removed to get it to fit under the slam panel. On the car, if you look down the side of the battery tray, next to the radiator, there's a 10mm headed bolt which is used as part of the fixing for the front panel. Take this bolt out and flatten the lug down against the chassis leg. You need to do this else it'll foul against the intercooler. Those should be the only modifications you need to make. Did this kit come with the small support bar? It looks like it does in the pic, but just to make sure, If you look at your existing charger setup, there's a black bar which bolts between the charger and the block to support the charger. On this setup, there should be a shorter bar which will attach to the U-bend instead of just the charger, make sure you have this before you start else it won't fit together! ;) The bolt that holds the Ubend on is MUCH longer than the one that holds the silencer box on. It uses the same thread size though, as it still attaches into the same place on the charger, it's just longer. Did you get the gasket with this kit? Again, it's in that pic, but if not, there's a guy selling 2 on Dubforce at the moment for £15 each instead of the £32 they are from VAG ;) Lastly, you can do this install without taking off the slam panel or bumper, but you will cut yourself, swear a lot and generally get annoyed with it... The first time you do this, I reccommend taking off the bumper and front panel so you can see how it all goes together.... this will also give you better access to remove the old intercooler as well... ;) Good luck!

Delk, that's true, BUT conversely, if the Honda makes sod all torque down low in, and the Ford (why are we using ford? :pukeleft: ) makes bags of it, the Honda will stall as you try and pull off, the ford will spin the wheels and heave itself off to it's redline... ;) You also have to remember that gearing is an important factor too... Just ask PhatVR6 what changing the final drive did to his car (if you're sitting comfortably that is... ;) :twisted: :lol: )

you can get 'em straight from VDO that'll match spot on... but you'll PAY for 'em... :| I used some Autometer gauges in J-DUB and changed the faces of my speedo etc to match... 8)

someone has WAYYYY too much time on their hands... :lol: 8)

mmmm, don't think I ever posted 'em in that case... I'll sling some up tomorrow when I'm at home... 8)

Supercharged, yup, that's right... They do tend to get a little warm, especially if you are running brighter bulbs in your headlamps, lots of ICE running off the ignition live etc etc etc as ALL of that current goes through that relay... A good example of the X relay's effect is to put on your headlamps and watch what happens as you try to start the car... The headlamps will drop to sidelights as you crank the startermotor to save on current draw. 8)

Yup, you could... problem in a Corrado is the lack of room to put it in... You'd either need a pipe that ran along the back of the radiator to the battery tray area which would heat up and probably cancel out the positive effects, or do something REALLY clever... (although I have no idea what! :roll: :lol: )

you and the family have my deepest sympathies...

it was the sticker change which had thrown me... I like the Neuspeed ones for the same reasons, I just don't like their price too much! ;) :lol:

an early bonnet CAN be fitted to a VR6, but you REALLY need to make sure that your engine mounts are spot on else you'll end up with a dented early bonnet! :lol: The clearance difference is around about 15 to 20mm difference, but that's enough to help with clearing the VR6s inlet manifold under "spirited" driving on less than perfect engine mounts... ;)

nah, looks pretty simple to be honest... Once you've hacked about with the center console a couple of times, it's pretty easy to do stuff like that... 8) Now, I wonder where I can get a complete sat nav like that one from... ;) 8)

DO NOT drill holes in your thermostat. This is a BAD bodge and will mean that your engine takes longer to get upto temperature and therefore will incur more wear! corradowales, I concur with the peeps above that this is probably a stuck thermostat problem... 8)

??? Whuh ??? Houston? we have a moron...

ummm, Kev? didn't I write that in a post in here ages ago? The reason I took the seat out was that I wanted full access to the under dash area 'cos I'd never done this before... I've since done a couple without removing the seat, and it is MUCH more comfortable! :lol: Why did you remove the steering column adjuster knob? :?

The x relay has a very simple job. It switches off most of the non-neccesary electrical devices when you are cranking the engine over to start it. This allows the maximum ampage from the battery to be dedicated to starting the engine and also protects some of the other circuits from voltage spikes/dips caused when the high drain from starting the engine hits. It's secondary function is to reduce the load on the ignition switch. By making the ignition switch fire a relay instead of switching the ignition live internally, you reduce the risk of fire/failure dramatically. 8) Shame they didn't think to put in a starter relay too, then none of us would have suffered from the ignition switch failing... :roll: :lol:

gibber, neither did I, ;) that's what Darren pointed out to me as he was trying to sell me one! :lol: The ONLY reason I don't have the return mod fitted to my decent engine is that it's too fecking noisy as it is with its toothed pulley system and I want it to be pretty subtle (yeah, that's gonna happen) as I use it every day to get to work and back... Once I've got my diesel daily driver, I'll take it off and fit the blanking kit... ;) Jon, glad you thought it through... I think you've made a good, informed choice... 8)

what make is your strut brace? Fits in really nicely and clears the expansion tank cap too... 8) I could do with a couple of those... :)

I'd go with Pitstop over Jabba every time on G60 issues these days... ;) The fine screen is great in theory, but won't catch the smaller metal fragments which WILL get into your charger and destoy it slowly and painfully... :| Boost return kits DO NOT damage the charger... How can it cause it not to breath properly when that pipe does not feed the charger air when on full throttle anyway? 8) Ker-plink, there's my 2p anyway... Sad to hear about your first charger anyway, :( good luck with the new one... 8) Oh, and VW DID remove the boost return on their rally cars (the Golf Rallye) as it was proven to reduce the boost temps... ;)

the center of gravity on a reasonable handling car like a corrado should be pretty much where the driver's arse is within the car... ;) (although in the middle of the car)

ok, so I've now got hold of a membership form (hurray!) and filled it all in ready to send off... 8) Can I just confirm that it IS still £15 to join if you've not been a member before/for a while, as the site is 2 years out of date everywhere else and I don't want to loose another cheque in the post...?