Henny

ALL corrados with electric windows allow the windows to be operated via the switch when the drivers door is open even if the ignition is off... the idea being that you don't need to have the key in the ignition to get the windows to work, so as you leave the car, the driver can close (or open) either window before closing the door... If you windows are ONLY working when the door is open, then it sounds to me like the window control module (behind the rear drivers side "door" card) has lost it's ignition live feed so doesn't know when the ignition is live and therefore to allow the windows to work while the door is shut... Stripping the door down will be a futile effort, as the problem won't be there... ;) Take the rear door card off and check for an ignition live on the multiplug that goes into the window control module... if there isn't one, trace the wiring back to the fuse box and find out which wire has died, which fuse has blown, or which relay has stopped working off the X relay... Of course, if there is an ignition live there, then it could just be that the control module has died! :lol:

managed to get some time to work on her this weekend... Lost an hour trying to get into the car after the door locks decided not to work... :epicfail: Stripped out the interior ready for treating the leather to some re-colour, feed and general TLC... Bailed out the rear drivers footwell which was holding 1/2" of water... :pukeright: think I may have a slight leak somewhere... :brickwall: Took the head off the engine to try and work out WTF is wrong with it... Still got no ideas... :help:

Well, with the beautiful weather we've had this weekend, what better thing could I do then spend a day in the grease, oil and shadow of my car?!? :lol: :cuckoo: Head's off now... and I'm still buggered if I can work out what's wrong with it... :brickwall: The head gasket looked fine, no obvious damage I could see, although it does look a little more seperated between the layers where it seals between 1&2 cylinders, although that could simply be where it's come apart taking the head off... Good news was that all head bolts were equally tight, and the threads all look good on them, so the heli-coil has held nicely, so the block's not scrap.... The pistons and bores all look good, so it's not a cracked block, and the valves, although somewhat blackened, all look OK too, so I'm a bit stumped.... time to send the head to someone who knows what they're doing I think... :?

Spent an hour breaking into the car after I couldn't get it to unlock with the key... :brickwall: Stripped out the seats and emptied all the stuff out of it that's been accumulating over the last 2.5 years since it was last on the road.... :cuckoo: Finally, took the head off to see if I could find out WTF is up with her and stopping her from running on 1 and 2.... Fecked if I can work it out, as the head gasket was fine... :brickwall: :bad-words: :epicfail: This week I'll be mostly stripping the head down to see if I can work out what's stopping it from running when it's all in one piece... :roll:

Rallye intercooler is the same core size as the Golf G60 one, but the end tanks are completely different and mean that you need to remove the towing eye and bracket from the drivers side front chassis leg to fit it... pain in the ass to be fair... the Golf G60 one just fits straight in... ;)

the only modifications the Golf G60 intercooler (NOT THE RALLYE ONE!) needs is the pipework and a small modification to one of the fixing points on the front of the radiator (it needs cutting off).... other than that, it's plug and play, hence why I have one on mine! :lol: Definitely worth the money for the Golf G60 one as long as you get the pipework and charger U-bend and support rod with it... :)

a good head flow job, smaller pulley with associated chip and bigger intercooler will see a G60 over 200BHP.... that's about the level where you start to get addicted and striving for more power and spend all your money on it from there on it... :lol:

hey, I didn't know they'd used that photo on their website... ...cool... 8) :lol:

new cam, gasflowed head and inlet manifold (if you can afford it), decent SS exhaust with cat bypass and an up-sized throttle body should get your valver up around 170bhp without too many hassles or reliability issues... CNC Heads state that they can get a KR 1.8 16V to over 200bhp with one of their heads and fuelling and cam modifications! clicky for details

those parts are easily worth £230.... performance gains are all relative... the oil cooler won't gain you anything other than extending the life of your engine. The intercooler probably won't GAIN you any BHP, but will stop you loosing it from the boost getting hotter... the cam will probably need a new chip to get the fuelling 100% and get the most out of it... They're a good starting point, don't get me wrong, but I feel you're looking for numbers from us that are almost impossible to give on the performance gains, as each modification adds to what you've already got, it's not just a "bolt this on to get 12.5 BHP gain" type of scenario... On your other thoughts earlier in the thread, yeah, they're all not bad ideas, but the cross-flow head won't gain you much other than an empty wallet, lots of headaches and quite a few failed attempts to get stuff to mate together properly... there's a reason that cross flow 8V g60s are rare -> they're not easy to do and don't gain all that much over a standard counter-flow 8V and less than a 16V conversion... ;) With a G60, the key to getting more power is to make it breath more easily (don't expect tunes to work though! :lol: )... gas flowing the head, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold (or fit a good 4 branch preferably!), throttle body (there's LOTS that can be taken out of the original one to make it flow better), and charger/intercooler/pipework will give you BIG gains both in BHP figures and in pure drivability... Mine's giving (well, when it's running anyway! :roll: ) 252bhp, but easily competes with 300bhp Jap stuff just purely down to the way that it produces the power and the TORQUE... ;)

Surely parts will get really expensive though, as less cars will actually get broken, just crushed. And as a result of less older cars demand for parts will decrease so prices will rise??? Nah, they can still take parts off with the scrappage incentive, but they have to crush the bodyshell to ensure it's never put back on the road again....

signed the petition too.... As soon as I heard about this scrappage incentive, I realised two things; 1) second hand parts for 10+ year old cars are gonna get silly cheap 8) 2) Any decent cars that are likely to become classics are gonna get silly expensive 'cos of the muppets who scrap 'em to get a couple of grand of a new POS car... :brickwall:

yup.... also check tyre pressures... too high will make the steering very light and give sod all feel... :)

definitely sounds like the classic ignition switch problem to me too... Think they're still about £30 from VW and not that difficult to fit. When they fail, you'll find the car will crank over no problems on the starter, but the fuel pump and coil won't be getting power while the starter is active, so it'll never start - exactly as you describe... Until you change the switch, you're likely to just be banging your head against a brick wall.... a good way to prove it is to turn on the ignition and try and bump start the car... if it starts, then it's 100% the ignition switch having failed... if not, then it could still be the ignition switch having failed in a more major way (they do this too!) or something else, but changing the starter switch isn't too expensive, isn't too difficult (if a little painful!) and so is always a good starting place with faults like this... 8) Good luck!

Welcome back Gareth.... 8) yeah, I'm a bit late, but it's nice to see your car back in your hands... it'll always be YOUR car in my eyes... even if you did originally buy it from the orthodontist who inflicted lots of pain on me back in the day! :lol:

strip the S3, convert one Corrado to be Quattro and 300bhp S3 powere. Daily drive the other Corrado while converting the first Corrado then sell the S3 bits that you have left over and finish by converting the second Corrado to a TDI engined one to use as a daily driver.... ...well, that's what I'd do in a perfect world, but people on here will tell you I'm a bit odd like that... :grin: :cuckoo: :lol:

I lost count of the amount of times I blew J-DUB up in Chorlton on my way home from work....... ...I eventually found a different way home... ;) :lol: Sympathies anyway, it's not a great feeling when they go wrong, especially on a nice day when there's loads of people out watching.... :roll:

same windback tool as I've got and I've lost count of how many calipers I've done with it now... Great cheap bit of kit... 8)

Personally, I'd be tempted to change the battery -> chassis -> gearbox earth strap while I was in that area of the car unless you know it's been done recently... that's just me though... :nuts: Don't bother with disconnecting the ECU, just take the battery out completely, that way all electrical systems are made safe for working on the gearbox... before re-attaching the battery after doing the work, check the resistance from the negative battery terminal to the body of the starter motor, and the block of the engine... this should be very very low resistance, and if it's not, then this is when you need to move the earth strap around a bit to get it to be low before you reconnect the battery and blow the ECU by earthing the starter motor through it! :ohfire:

Erm, I think that you're missing something here... It's called Aqua Blue PEARL 'cos it IS a pearlescent colour and DOES flick between light blue, through dark blue to almost purple depending on how the light is catching it... However, the bonnet and roof on that car DO look like they're a totally different colour and look WAY darker than ABP...

I happen to have a Corrado tow-bar that I bought from here and have never fitted... As far as I remember you don't have to cut the bumper to fit it, and I was going to modify it so you could remove the ball and arm behind the bumper so that it would be hidden until required like most of the kits for new cars are... I'll have a dig in my parents cellar (where I think it is currently hiding ;) ) to see if I can find it... I'd be after £45 for it, although you'd have to come get it, or arrange a courier 'cos it's not exactly light!

good point, well made... 8)

if you want to track a G60, get the basics right first... and remember, BHP isn't everything on a track... ;) 1) make sure the engine is 100% sound... that includes the charger, which I'd send of to Darren at G-Werks to get it rebuilt (had bad experiences with Jabba), and I'd also get a chip and pulley from him while it's there... Full service with GOOD oil, new cam-belt, new AUX belts, new plugs, new gear oil and all filters (paper filter for the supercharger please, none of those naff cotton cones if you want your charger to last any time at all... 2) uprate/overhaul the brakes... the standard G60 brakes are OK for road use with a standard engine, but once you start hammering them, you'll soon over heat them... getting a set of MKIV rear calipers on will ensure the rears work as intended, and I'd go for a set of the Brembo 305mm 4pot brakes as fitted to the Seat Ibiza cupra which is a bolt on conversion as long as you're running 16" wheels or larger. Also change all the flexy hoses for braded, and use DOT5.1 brake fluid... 3) uprate the suspension... odds are you'll have either no idea what suspension kit is fitted to your car, or the age of it if you've just got it... Change the shocks/springs AND as many of the rubber suspension bushes as you can afford to... that'll help the handling no end and make what is often referred to as "the best handling FWD coupe" handle as it should! This is where spending money will pay off, where buying cheap could well make the car handle worse than before! 4) STRIP! the car that is... ;) get as much un-needed stuff out of the car to make it as light as possible... carpets, rear seats, parcel shelf, speakers, DASH?!?, heaters, passenger seat, sound deadening (you can always put earplugs in!)... there's easily a good 80KG just listed there... you could even sell some of the bits to make some cash back to spend on the rest of the upgrades... ;) 5) tyres... get some decent ones... you don't want brand new road tyres if you're using the car as a track car as you'll simply destroy them on the first session... a good set of half worn, good tyres will do you proud... :) That should be enough for you to get it on the track and start enjoying it... then it just depends on how much money you can budget for your toy as to where to go next... Good luck! 8)

Nope, 3 PMs and emails, many phone calls and now I just can't be bothered with him... He's used up all of my good will, and as many people on this forum know, that takes some doing... :eek:

Anyone on here who knows of me will know that I don't complain about people unless they've done something to really take the p!ss... This is the first time I've had to mention someone in this bad buyer thread... :bad-words: Das Golf (Nathan Blackmore) agreed to buy a load of bits for an auto->manual conversion off J-Dub when I scrapped her... I did him a good price with discount for bulk buying stuff and agreed to hold it for a while when I got it off the car until he could organise a courier... once the parts were off the car he started to mention that he also wanted other parts including the seat BASES from the front seats and said that he'd pay the cost for the full set of seats, but only wanted the front seat bases to use for converting some Porsche seats he had... I boxed everything up, weighed them so he could get a courier organised, and generally did everything I could to help with an easy purchase for him... He sent me a text 2 weeks ago apologising for the delays and blaming everything on someone who hasn't yet paid him some money via paypal, but now I can't get hold of him... He's received several PMs from me (I've made sure he's got them) and emails, but has changed his mobile number (or just doesn't have it switched on anymore) and isn't replying... He's not paid me anything, and I've not sent anything to him, but I've held these things for him, turning down other buyers and have destroyed a perfectly good pair of front seats for him which I doubt I'll be able to sell now... :mad2: My advice to anyone is not to sell anything to him unless he sends payment as soon as he agrees to buy something... and definitely not to hold any parts for him... :brickwall: