Henny

Bearing in mind that excessive fuelling is normally due to a dead lambda, and that your A/F gauge reads FROM your lambda. I'd say that your lambda probe is dead and telling the ECU (and your A/F gauge) that the engine is permanently lean causing your overfuelling... :roll: 8)

how low are you running?!? That's gotta be seriously low, have VERY soft springs, or you have seriously nasty speedbumps where you live... :|

disconnect the blue plug on the injector on the end of the inlet manifold... this is your cold start injector and it could be jammed open. See if that makes any difference... 8) *edit* Rpmayne's suggestion is also a good one... it could be that your plug leads are old and the insulation has broken down meaning that they are shorting out onto the inlet manifold instead of getting the current to the plugs... get the engine up to temp in the dark and see if you can see any sparks on the engine from around the leads... you may need a fine spray of water onto them to see the spark clearly...

You'll need to set up the timing again, so you'll need a timing strobe to get it set up spot on again, but you shouldn't have to touch the ECU on a valver as they're not that intellegent... 8)

my keyring arrived this morning.... Well impressed! 8) Very nicely made and even the keyring itself it a good one (not one of the cheapo nasty ones you get with plastic freebies... ) 8)

sheesh... Gutted for you Dinkus... Not good at all... :( Glad you are OK though, that's the main thing... 8) Hope your insurance sorts it out quickly with the minimum of hassle... 8)

Added Skid... 8)

Yeah, that 288 conversion should be bloody good on your motor Kev... The brembo conversion is excellent for the 4 stud cars, but utterly useless for the VRs due to the extra cost and size... :( It'd be interesting to know if anyone's done/tired the NEW ibiza conversion on a VR yet though, as these are the same size as the older Brembo brakes, but are 5 stud so should fit a VR allowing for 305mm disks and 4 pot callipers... 8)

oooh, nice figures Daz... not seen those before... 8)

standard mounts aren't too bad... you can get 'em from Euro or GSF pretty cheaply too... 8)

Yup, All standard Corrados have 3 mounts... 8) The VR6 has a totally different front mount, but it's in the same location... 8) As you look from the front of the car: One on the rear left of the engine [/*:m:5f015] One at the rear right of the engine bay (actually the gearbox mount)[/*:m:5f015] One on the front middle (ish) of the engine on a bracket which attaches at the join between the gearbox and engine.[/*:m:5f015]

dinkus, I know mate... I didn't take it that way... 8) The engine braking effect with my G60 engine helps sooooo much... I'd gotten used to it so much on the tracks and strip days this year that it just was second nature not to hit the clutch and to let the engine take on a chunk of the braking! 8) Having looked at the tyres, there's no flat spots on the fronts, but there is slightly on the rears! And, YES, the brake compensator valve HAD been re-set properly! :lol: :roll: p.s. Dinkus? You've spelt Argument wrong in your sig... ;)

is yours a 2.0 or a 1.8 16v? If it's a 2.0 I'd go with Lambda or coolant temp sensor faults...

with ya all the way there Kev... And then with the Brembo conversion, the initial bite is the same difference again as that between the VR6 and the G60's! 8) Anyone who's been out and had a high speed braking test in a Corrado equipped with a set of the Seat Brembos will testify that the brakes are awesome and make the original ones look utterly pants! They are utterly progressive and predictable with a fantastic initial bite and more than enough surface area to prevent overheating and brake fade when used with a decent brake fluid... 8)

the engine mounts CAN be changed with the engine in place (that's how I did mine! :lol:) Basically, it involves undoing the bolts/nuts which hold the mounts on, jacking up the engine/gearbox slightly, pulling out the old mounts and then putting in the new ones and bolting it all back together again... It's relatively easy, but can be a touch fiddly to get the old mounts out and the new ones back in again... :| They should be pretty easy to get at on a Valver, and I'd guess a garage should be able to do all 3 in under 2 hours... 8)

there are currently 2 1900 (ish) conversions that I'd recommend to people on here... 8) JMR's 1940cc setup, which uses custom 83mm Mahle pistons, a new crank and G60 rods with a few block tweaks. This results in 1940cc and 9.5:1 compression ratio. This is what I have in my (now written off :( ) G60 and I can confirm it's a little corker! 8) Contact 16VG60 (John Mitchell) for more details and costs. [/*:m:1876f] G-Werks 1.9 (actually 1876cc IIRC) conversion pistons. These are custom made 83mm pistons and are REALLY nicely made... These are just a straight replacement for the original pistons and just require your block to be overbored to 83mm and will give you a 9.0:1 compression ratio. Contact G-man (Darren Bennett) for more details and prices... 8)[/*:m:1876f] I've yet to compare one of the G-werks 1.9 setups with my JMR conversion, but we should be able to do some interesting comparisons on both track and strip next year, as I'm pretty certain that Banana man has the G-werks pistons in his 'rado at the moment, and my G60 engine will be back on the road (although probably in a different car) sometime soon... 8)

the 2.0 has got a cat which pretty much saps out any performance difference... :roll: It does, however, have the later body and interior and will be a lot newer than any 1.8 16V... 8)

Corrados are a little heavier, and give about the same BHP, acceleration, MPG and top MPH as the MKII 16V... The bits that Corrados kick the hell out of Golfs on are that they look and handle SOOOOOOOO much better! 8)

I'd go with bleeding it... pumping it will "harden up" the air bubbles, where as it shouldn't make it any better if it were the master cylinder... :|

there were some GOLF 4x4 16V G60s (the "G60 limited" golfs) but I've never heard of any Corrados with this engine/drivetrain... :|

the ECU cable has a screw in it to stop the multiplug falling out... You probably won't be able to get the screw out until you've got the ECU out of the scuttle tray area... ;) As far as I remember from doing it on my G60, you undo a nut at one end of the metal piece that the ECU is bolted onto. This then allows the whole thing to slide over to one side and release off the pegs which hold it in. You can then pull some of the wiring loom back into the scuttle area to move the ECU enough so that you can undo the screw through the multiplug... The black plastic cover is pretty easy to get off... if you grab hold of the rubber seal which runs along the engine bay side of the scuttle and pull it up, it'll come off. Under that there's some metal clamps over the plastic cover which you need to lever up with a flat blade screwdriver to release... All of this is from memory, and I did it about 8 months ago, so there may be a few bits I've mis-remembered, but I DO remember it wasn't too difficult to do... 8)

it's supposed to be a sealed system (the pressure helps make the boiling temp of the coolant higher) so any leaks will result in lowering the system's efficiency and lead to eventual overheating... Steam's never a good sign... :|

bert, the hall sender is the bit in the distributor which replaces the "points"... It's the part which senses when the engine is at the correct place to fire the plugs... 8) SteveM16v, That's not too bad a price to be honest... I'd guess you're looking towards £200 on parts and at least 3 hours labour to do that little lot... 8)

standard bulbs will be fine once you've got the loom in.... 8)

there's a pressure release valve in the cap... odds are that if it's overheated and steamed, you'll need a new cap+seal... 8) Good news is that they're cheap, available from GSF, Euro, Halfords, and VAG... 8)