Henny

What? you mean the way it goes "PING!!!" and fires springs, balls and levers in all directions?!? :roll: :lol: Yup, I did mine too! ;) 8) I'm also pretty certain that you CAN make the early spoiler switch light up with a 3mm LED if you want it to, but I've never been bothered to try...

or give Wayne at Chipwizards a ring... ;) 8)

Me? I'd make 'em in two colour options: Primed/bare metal so they can be colour coded by the purchaser and satin black powder coat so that they match the original handles pretty closely... 8) Looking good so far though! 8)

You can take a feed for the boost gauge from the back of the instrument cluster. There's a rubber pipe which attaches to the back of the gauges, stick a T piece into there so that it feeds BOTH the instrument cluster and your boost gauge. Yes, Wiring's normally easiest to the fuse box or at least that general area.

yup, that's normal... :) As long as they don't keep going for more than about 10 minutes you're OK... It's the run-on system working properly (for a nice change!) 8) That doesn't sound right at all... :| Could be your immobiliser/alarm not being happy about the run-on circuit being active, or something else entirely... :|

The rocker cover shouldn't actually get that hot, so, as 20v turbo says, any good car paint (2 pack or even celulose based) should hold up to the temperature with no problems... I used a genuine VAG paint and laquer spray and a good quality primer from my local motor store... 8) It's just a shame I'm rubbish at painting, I always put too much on and get runs (actually, they're closer to Gallops! :lol: ) 'cos I get impatient with it... Odd really when I can spend hours working on a small component to get it to fit perfectly or hours tidying up wiring... :oops: :roll: :lol:

1) Yes, but it can be a bit fiddly unhooking it from under the cam gear... 2) Nitromores will work OK, but as Gav says, bead blasting's the best option... 3) Whatever paint you use, make sure it's oil stable... Smoothrite/hammerite won't do as it dissolves in oil/petrol and will look pants very quickly... Get a decent high temp engine laquer, or even an alloy wheel paint, and they should be fine... 8) 4) Rocker cover just needs the bolts tightening up properly, there's no set order, although I tend to tighten 'em in a similar order to the main head bolts just 'cos I'm a bit like that! ;) :lol: I did mine with a good quality primer and then sprayed it with original VW Aqua blue (same colour as the car) and then 4 or 5 good coats of laquer... looked great and seemed to stand up to the temps reasonably well... 8)

16VG60 did the one on mine... He's taken an absolute SHED load out of the main inlet side of the body (the seperate bit which has the return butterfly in it) and then matched that to the gasket between the two halves and then onto the main butterfly unit. He's then ground the flat bits between the 2 butterflies to almost a knife edge to make the gas' journey easier and smoother... 8) It's a work of art once it's done, I hadn't realised just how much he'd taken off it until I recently saw an original one! :shock: Give him a yell, I think he may have some ready on an exchange basis... 8)

Wuss! They're harmless... 8) Funkster, what's your user name on B3ta then? I've been on that site for over 2 years now and I recognised your FHM hats thing! 8)

Welcome to The Forum... 8) I've moved this to General chat as it's not really an event is it? ;) :lol:

That's 'cos they were made by Karmann! ;)

'ello and welcome to The Forum... Looks like a nice unmolested 'rado you've got yourself there... 8)

OK, so that made me laugh far more than it should have done... :oops: :lol: :rofl:

8)

there's a full length underbody heatsheild which runs the entire length of the center tunnel... this is held on by mild steel spring clips which rust, fall off and allow the aluminum heat shield to drop down onto the exhaust causing the rattle you describe... ;) The oddest bit is that VW sell the clips for about 18p each! and it's a stupidly simple job to fix the rattle too! 8) Get it up in the air and have a look at the exhaust pipe (when the pipe's COLD!) and you'll see the aluminium shield I mean and almost certainly find that's what's rattling and be able to see how many new clips you need... 8)

eh? Slimbo, how can a gearbox bearing effect the idle speed when changing gear?!? :?

sounds promising anyway kerrinmay... Hope this sorts it... 8)

have a word with RacePowerMotorsport down in Dartford... They do gasflowing and head work and have a superb reputation... 8)

yeah, if there's a leak it'll suck cold air in and cause a backfire... Sort the exhaust and it'll sort the banging... 8)

very nice there Chris... 8) Good choice on the wheels too! ;) 8)

The Halfords Perfomance brake fluic (dot5.1) is the cheapest DOT5.1 I've found as yet and is very good... (which suprises me to say it!) It's in a black tub with orange writing on it and was about £12 per litre IIRC... 8) As Supercharged says, DON'T use DOT5 as it's silicone based and willl kill your brake and clutch seals! :shock:

how old is the polo? I know the older ones didn't have a servo, so their brakes were utter pants... :| The rest of the polos suffer from small brake syndrome... they're crap when new, and just get worse with age! :| :crazyeyes: Decent disks and pads will help, change the rear cylinders (about £6 each including new nipples IIRC! :lol: ) and see if that makes much difference... 8)

don't forget to use new bolts! Head bolts should only be used once (twice at an absolute maximum)

if you want to know the tollerances/specs for your engine, buy a 88-92 Haynes manual which covers your engine... 8)

yup, fuse... there's 2 fuses for sidelights, one does the left side, one does the right... can't tell you which is which 'cos I haven't got it written down myself, but I'm sure there's a post on here with it written down somewhere... :)