Henny

GSF = German Swedish and French -> CLICK HERE *edit* bugger, beaten to it twice! :roll: :lol:

change your ignition switch... This sounds exactly like the fault I had with mine which turned out to be the switch... about £20 from VAG and there's details on how to change it in the how-to guides (see link top right of every page) 8)

Both look very nice and clean... 8) Reminds me how much I do like Aqua blue though... :wink: 8)

it stops your car catching fire when the heater blower motor's bearings go and the resistor pack starts to over-heat... :| Basically when the resistor pack (which allows the fan to spin slower, so giving you the first 3 speeds) gets too hot, the thermal fuse blows and turns off the resistor pack (permanently!) so it doesn't melt the fan housing and set fire to things... 8)

Not on a Corrado it won't... this is a common myth, it won't make a blind bit of difference as the Corrado heater valving controls the air flow NOT the coolant flow... The Matrix on a Corrado is always filled with the same temp coolant as the engine bay's pipes... 8)

ooh, actually, I've got the better 2 legged version of that engine stand! (can take a heavier engine just in case I ever decide to do something silly with a V8... ;) :lol: ) They're adjustable in how they mount to the engine as Kev said, although I ended up making up some more spacers for mine so that I could bolt on the flywheel while it was still on the stand so it could be locked up and get the crank shaft cambelt pulley's bolt tightened properly... (so it won't break or come loose! ;) )

OSV, It was a dentist who worked (possibly still works!) in Macclesfield 'cos I went to have a look at it when it was for sale, but realised I couldn't afford it at the time! 8) Jstar, Welcome to The Forum... 8) :D

yup, also got the same engine stand... 8) :lol: Looking good Valver, should be a nice looking lump when it's all done... 8)

The gauge water temp sender is the black on in the black plastic flange on the front of the head (where the blue on is)... They're about £10 from GSF/Euro and take about 2 minutes to change when the engine's cold... Don't forget to buy a seal too! ;)

Ah, if it's the one from the engine to the bulkhead (should connect to one of the bolts which hold the coil on) then this is quite important as it ensures that all of the sensors on the head get a good earth... which on a valver is doubly important as that's also how the hall effect sender gets it's earth due to the dizzy being on the head! Attach a thick bit of cable in between one of the bolts on the dizzy and the bulkhead and see if that cures your problems... 8) (mine ran like that for about 6 months until I got my arse in gear and ordered the proper strap from VAG! :oops: :mrgreen: )

Have you checked to see if the connector on the back of the clocks has come off? That's the only way that ALL of the dash clocks could be wiped out in one go if the fuse is intact... 8)

Erm, is the oil on the TOP of the plug, or actually on the electrodes of the plug (the bits wot are inside the engine :wink: :lol: ) From that first post, it sounds like you have a leaky rocker cover gasket on your Valver and oil has gotten down the sparkplug access tubes and is shorting out the no.4 plug lead...

your ISV is probably stuck... (Idle Stabilisation Valve) If you use the search for "ISV AND G60 AND idle" you'll find loads of stuff on here about them as it's a pretty common problem... 8)

Send the head off to a GOOD machine shop (local recommended ones tend to be fine) and get new seats, guides and seals installed (preferably 3 step valve seats) then lap them in yourself with a kit from your local motorfactors (should cost you less than £10 for the lapping kit) Get the machine shop to check the crank and bores and make sure they're within tollerence (should be on a valver ;) ) and hone the cylinders out, and, as Scruffythefirst says, balance up the whole bottom end (crank, pistons and con-rods) and possibly lighten and balance the flywheel too... 8) If I were rebuilding an engine, I'd use: Bearings are available for a few quid (litterally!) from GSF Head gasket set from GSF Rings from Euro or GSF Waterpump from GSF Block gasket set from GSF/Euro Sump gasket from GSF/Euro Sump from GSF/Euro Oil pressure sensors from VAG Oil temp sensor from VAG Water temp sensors from GSF/Euro Black plastic water flanges (side and front of head) from VAG (with new O rings) Oil pump from VAG Oil cooler from GSF/Euro (if you can't afford a Mocal external one ;) ) Tappets from GSF/Euro Cam chain (if it's a 16V) from Euro/GSF Cam belt from Euro/GSF P/S belt from Euro/GSF Alternator belt from Euro/GSF Bosch Dizzy cap and rotor arm from Euro/GSF SACHS clutch kit from Euro/GSF This little lot sounds like an awful lot of stuff, but that will give you a first class rebuild, which you know will be right and have no corners cut ('cos you'll have done it yourself!) The bits shouldn't cost you more than £500 + balancing work... If it's a valver, get yourself a Golf MK2 haynes manual and all the rebuild instructions are in there... 8) Good luck! 8)

yup, I got told by the AA that my car was 4x4 last time the engine blew up... It seems that they get CORRADO mixed up with COLORADO and think it's some big Mitsubishi 4x4 thing... :roll:

If you can still see coolant in the expansion tank, (either when warm or cold) top it up in there when it's cold to about a third of the way up between min and max markers. That'll give you space for the coolant to expand (that's why it's called an expansion tank after all! :lol: ) and make sure you've enough coolant in there to stop the red flashy light coming on... 8) If the level's not visible in the tank at any point, you should probably check that the top hose has coolant in it and if it seems a little low in there, top it up from the radiator end of the top hose and then the expansion tank after that... 8)

Reggit, You're spot on there mate... The one from the cam cover/head is the important one, the bonnet one doesn't do much at all... :|

yes, the belt does self tension... that's what the big shock absorber thingy which attaches next to the alternator is for... ;) A new belt won't hurt and may help with slippage... A quick trick would be to use some talc on the belt (my local Merc garage swears by Brut talc for this kind of thing :| ) and see if it makes any difference... if it does, then change the belt for a nice new one... 8)

I just phoned JustMatz and the guy couldn't believe how many requests he's had for these in the past day or so... (mine's now on it's way! ;) :lol: ) I told him that it's just been mentioned on the forum and I think he may be visiting soon! 8) :lol: Anyone want to try and organise a group buy on some of his other goods?!? ;) 8)

I'm 90% sure that the pneumatic actuators are the same as ones used on Golfs, Jettas and Passats... A scrap yard'll certainly have these... Alternator cover? Is this the black plastic one right on the top of the G60 engine which covers a large chunk of the alternator too? Have a word with Darren (G-Man) or John (16VG60) as they may have one floating around somewhere... 8) oil dipstick tube is the same as a 1.8 or 1.6 Golf/Passat one... go to a scrap yard with a set of maul grips and a hammer, and get one out of a write off Golf or similar... lightly clamp the maul grips around the top (where the plastic bit connects on) and tap up out of the block with the hammer... The plastic top bit is 99p from Euro or GSF... 8) Rear numberplate surround is cheapest from GPC unless you can get a good second hand one (but they normally break when you try to get 'em off... :roll: )

most BHP would be a bit difficult to judge, but I like the rest of 'em... 8)

only the first post can have a poll in it, and that can only have 10 options in it.... :| Dunno how we'd do this to be honest... :|

I was just thinking the same thing Dan... Added to poll... 8) *edit - Nuts, ran out of Poll options... :( Sorry Jim...

I've added Phat to the poll as his car WAS running this year as a VR6 (and a 2.0 8V for a bit too!) and was pretty damned special before he managed to blow it up... :roll: Hell, his ran longer (in total) than mine ran for this year too... :oops: :lol:

I've got one of my MKI Golf 16V (on the M62 a test track at the time) with the speedo and rev counter off the ends of the scales as it clocked up 100K miles! :lol: I really must dig it out and scan it in... ;) 8)