Henny

It could be a leak in your exhaust, yes... Has the car started to use more fuel than normal or is it suffering from any other bad/dodgy running symptoms? If it's using more fuel than normal, then I'd change the blue temp sender and check out the wiring to the lambda sensor as it could also be over-fuelling which causes your car to backfire...

Yup, Wayne from Chipwizards does the same thing... as long as the car's not got a cat, it doesn't really matter where in the system the probe goes, as long as it's at a point where there is only one pipe (so it gets ALL of the gas to flow over it! ;) ) then it'll work... 8)

Not enitrely true there mate... The slam panel to wing bolt on the inside of the chassis leg under the battery tray needs either removing (neat way) or smacking out of the way with a hammer (more fun way! ;) ) else the intercooler fouls on it and won't fit in properly... ;) It's only 2 thin pieces of steel and they don't actually do anything as long as all the rest of the bolts are in place, it's just typical VW over-engineering! ;) :lol:

the switch just pulls straight out... you may be better removing the blank next to it (lever it out with a flat screwdriver) amd then you can push the switch out from the back... 8)

I'll go one further than Tom and Roddy... They WON'T fit, and will look silly without some serious body work and probably body kit work too.... :? They will also totally kill the performance of a Corrado, especially if it's not one of the higher powered ones like the G60 or VR6, and will make it handle like a bag of $#!+£..... :| It's do-able, but so is shoving an american V8 engine in and turning the car into a Dragster... :roll:

oooh, should be interesting Steve... that's one area I didn't mess with too much on my rebuild, so it'll be very interesting to see what yours is like compared with mine... 8) Good luck with it anyway... I'd offer my advice and assistance, but I know damned well that you're perfectly capable of sorting it yourself! ;) :lol: 8)

....there's one going into my toolbox this christmas, and I'm not even a "sportscar tuning specialist" :lol: ;) 8)

First thing to do is a bloody good service... replace EVERYTHING that wears out during service intervals and the standard Corrado weak points while you're in there so you KNOW they've been done... blue temp sender, rotor arm, dizzy cap, cam belt, cam tensioner, P/S belt, plugs, oil, oil filter, oil/white grease all the bits wot move in the sunroof, spoiler and door hinges, then sort out all of the flanges that are known to leak and change the coolant while you're at it... Won't cost you a huge amount and will mean that all of the weak spots on the engine should be sorted for a good few years... 8) Hell, for the price of it, I'd also change the big end and crank shells and possibly even the piston rings too! I'd even think about getting the head re-conditioned with new seals, guides and seats just to make sure the engine's as good as it can be.... but that may just be me... ;) :oops: :lol: After this lot, you will have an engine which purrs after you've had a good tune up done... 8) Then change the brake flexies for braded ones, replace the brake fluid with DOT5.1, make sure you're running a good quality disks and pads combination, check out your suspension and make sure all the bushes are spot on and that the dampers (shocks) and springs are good too... Then look at your tyres and make sure you've got 4 identical make/model tyres on which are in good condition and get the tracking and camber set up professionally so that you know it's spot on.... 8) Get used to the change that that little lot makes, THEN start looking for engine mods... ;) 8) IMHO, Too many people want to jump straight into the modifying things route before they actually get the car running how it was supposed to when it left the factory... Having driven (and owned) a mint 1.8 16V 7 years ago, and having driven one recently, the difference is unreal... Get your car into the best condition it can be first before you start changing things and I will guarantee that you'll end up with a much bigger grin on your face for much longer than if you just start modifying the engine without sorting the rest of the car first... ;) 8) Oh, and a K&N filter panel should (again IMHO) be one of the first servicing items you buy for a Corrado... ;)

Define performance increase? :| The Miltek/JMR downpipe will help the exhaust gasses leave the engine with less power loss than the original ones would, and the KR cam has a slightly higher lift and duration than the original would, but in figures I can't say what the difference would be on a rolling road...... :| On a REAL road though, you should find that the low down grunt is somewhat improved and the engine feels more revvy and responsive... 8)

Me? I'd go with option 3. ;) 3) small inline chargecooler (as above) in the straight pipe from the charger to the throttle... As short an airway as possible with a high efficiency charge cooler in the path to try and get the temps down while keeping the flow to as high a capacity as possible... 8) Think about it, if the charger is pushing it's charge into a long pipework run with at least one 180 degree turn in it, (which ever way you do it, there's a 180 in there somewhere, be it tight or through the cooler) your flow rate is gonna drop and cause more lag and less efficiency than a small straight pipe with a slightly smaller/less efficient cooler in it... ;)

yeah, I'd go with slave cylinder too... :| Bleed it through a little (same as bleeding brakes, only you'll need someone to push/pull the clutch pedal as it won't auto return from the bottom) and see if that helps... if it does, then you almost certainly will need a new slave cylinder in the next few months... 8)

IMHO, Black with gold actually looks rather classy and may well break up the expanse of silver... 8) It's not a large enough amount of gold to make it "BLING!" worthy, but it's enough of a change to catch your eye and make you think "mmmm, BBS wheels..." ;)

it should take a sparky less than 10 minutes to fit it... 20 if he does it neatly and routes it behind the grill infront of the radiator... 8)

should be about right, yeah... 8)

sheesh, sorry to hear your bad news... I hope you can get it sorted with the minimum of hassle... (and I hope that someone nearby catches the little feckers and dishes out some good, old fashioned justice with their crowbar... ;) :twisted: )

I sooooo wish I could see how J-DUB goes with her Golf intercooler now that the temps have dropped... :cry: Bet she would have been evil! :twisted: :(

Top hose is the hose which attaches to the top of the radiator... it's a big thick black rubber one which comes off the plastic flange on the front right of the head... 8) Thanks, but don't think she's dead just yet! ;) :twisted:

just checking... 8) Any idea what the offset of them is? Adaptors are usually 20mm thick so you need to factor that it to see if they'll actually fit under your arches too... 8)

you need adaptors... Porsche wheels don't use 5x100 (IIRC they're 5x112)... :?

you need to take the sensor off the lead (you may have to cut the end off the old lead to get it off) and put it onto the new lead... With any luck, the leads you have bought will have ends which just screw on, so you can unscrew 'em, put on the sensor, and then screw the end back on again... ;) Much easier than having to wait 3-4weeks and finding out you still have to do the same thing anyway! :lol: Get yourself a Haynes manual for a Golf II or Passat (88-94) and follow the instructions in there for the rear wheel bearings as it's identical in the way you do it... 8) Could help you no-end in the future for other jobs too! 8) Good luck! 8) (oh, and it's impatient, not unpatient- yes, I'm pedantic! ;) :lol: )

yes, they stretch... It's a chain, ALL chains stretch with use... :| If the engine's in a state where it's an easy job to change the chains, DO IT... there's no point in putting an old unknown part back into an engine when it's as easy (and not hugely expensive) to put in a new part... 8)

I've locked this thread up for now as there will be no more news about J-DUB in the near future, but rest assured, this won't be the end of her! 8) Thanks for all the comments that have been made in this thread over the year and a bit it's been here... keep an eye out for my new thread coming soon! ;) 8)

tuning it just needs a timing strobe lamp, a gas analyser and a bit of simple knowledge... 8) ANY MOT garage will be able to do this, and most other garages will have this kit available to them too... 8)

cam cover gasket is rubber with metal inserts to stop you over-squashing it... You should have no more than 50/50 G12+/water in the coolant system... You head gasket could be knackered, but there's no evidence of it in this post... 8) If your waterlevel is too low after another run, take off the top hose (once the engine's cooled down! :roll: ) and fill it up from there until it's just coming out. replace the top hose and top the expansion tank up. If you've only done the flange on the side of the head, you won't have lost too much of the water, and are unlikely to have a serious air lock in the block anywhere as the flange you replaced is higher up than the block and the coolant can't go UP to run out of the engine! ;) :lol: Don't worry about it too much... keep an eye on it, replace the cam cover gasket (About £5 IIRC) and see if your heater starts working after a decent run out... 8) If the heater doesn't work after a while I'd go with the bypass valves having failed when they dried out as you changed the coolant... I've heard this happen on quite a few cars now... :roll:

It's not a stupid question at all, Louie... 8) Quite a few people think they know what it is and what it does, and actually haven't got a clue... :roll: The only stupid question is the one you don't ask... 8) Porting the head means making the airways into and out of the valves larger so that the gasses can get into and then out of the cylinders easier, freeing up more power. You can also port the throttle body, supercharger inlet manifolds and exhaust manifold to ease the gasses journey even more and free up a little more power... As Phil says though, it's not a simple case of "bigger is better", so it's a little more involved than that for a cylinder head... :? NOTE: This does not CREATE more power, it just releases the potential the engine already has which has been lost due to the mass manufacturing methods employed when the engine components were made... ;) Flowing (actually GAS flowing) means that the airways have certain parts removed, polished, or roughened up to create as smooth an airflow into/out of the cylinders as possible which should allow more gasses to flow through the engine giving more power. To do this PROPERLY needs some very expensive kit which blows smoke through the item to show up the bad points which need more work on them, however a good job can be made by hand if you know roughly what you are doing. NOTE: You should not fully polish the inlet side of the head as an engine will run better with a slight roughness in the air passage into the cylinders as this causes a "swirl" to the gases entering the engine which allows the fuel and air to mix properly on their way into the cylinder and therefore burn better and more efficiently... 8) Example: A "polished and ported" head would be one which has had the airways enlarged and then polished up in places to aid the airflow into/out of the cylinders... 8)